Wine Enthusiast https://www.wineenthusiast.com/ Wine Enthusiast Magazine Fri, 10 May 2024 16:37:21 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.2.4 Curing Gravlax at Home Isn’t the Headache You Think It Is https://www.wineenthusiast.com/recipe/gravlax-recipe/ Fri, 10 May 2024 16:37:20 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/?post_type=recipe&p=175936 It might be easier to make gravlax at home than you thought—bring authentic “appetizing” to your own kitchen. [...]

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With so much impact for so little effort (and without having to schlep to Russ & Daughters), gravlax deserves a place in your entertaining arsenal. Lox and gravlax both refer to salt-cured (not smoked) salmon, but the latter usually adds sugar and herbs to the curing mixture. To retain some of the fresh salmon’s texture and flavor, our recipe uses a shorter cure time than most. Multiple smaller salmon fillets work fine here, but try to get one piece of salmon for the best presentation (if using a side of salmon, which usually weighs between 3 and 4 pounds, simply double the other ingredients). Skinless salmon allows for a more even cure, but skin-on salmon leaves you with a bonus: After slicing the gravlax, the skin can be fried crisp in hot oil as a garnish or just a treat for the chef.

You May Also Like: What Wine Pairs with Salmon?


Gravlax Recipe

Ingredients

  • 2 lbs. center-cut boneless salmon fillet, skinless or skin-on
  • ½ cup kosher salt
  • ½ cup granulated sugar
  • 1 tablespoon peppercorns, cracked if desired
  • ¼ packed cup minced fresh dill, plus two bunches fresh dill

Instructions

Rinse salmon and pat dry. Run clean fingers over salmon to check for pin bones, and remove any with needlenose pliers (ask your fish market to do this if they haven’t already). Combine salt, sugar, peppercorns and 1/4 cup dill, and pack onto both sides of salmon. Lay one bunch of dill in a glass or ceramic baking dish (approximately the size of the salmon fillet), cover with salmon, then top with the other bunch of dill, making sure every surface of the salmon is covered by some of the salt mixture.

Cover loosely with plastic wrap and place some weights on top (canned food works fine). Refrigerate for 18 to 24 hours, flipping salmon once partway through (if salmon is less than 1.5 inches thick or more than 2 inches thick, reduce or raise curing time by a few hours). Brush salt mixture from salmon and remove the remainder with a moist paper towel. Serve immediately, or wrap tightly in plastic and refrigerate for up to 5 days.

To serve, transfer gravlax to a serving platter and slice thinly on the diagonal with a very sharp long knife.

The two most common kosher salts, Morton’s and Diamond Crystal, vary widely in density. While exact amounts of salt and sugar aren’t ultraimportant here, this recipe assumes Morton’s; if using Diamond Crystal, use 3/4 cup.

Any type of salmon can be used for gravlax, but chinook (aka king), Atlantic and sockeye salmon are fattier than coho (aka Silver) and pink salmon, making for a more buttery and flavorful gravlax. For a change of pace, try boneless halibut fillets.

To Top: Mustard Sauce

This is a traditional Scandinavian accompaniment for cured salmon. Whisk together 1/4 cup Dijon mustard, 3 tablespoons white wine vinegar, 1 tablespoon mayonnaise, 1 tablespoon honey and 2 tablespoons minced fresh dill. Slowly whisk in 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive or vegetable oil.

Wine Pairing

Gravlax goes equally well with cream cheese and citrus vinaigrette, so it follows that oaked Chardonnay, with its blend of crisp acidity and rich texture, is an ideal pairing. American oak, in particular, gives complementary hints of dill and smoke. Just be sure to pick an example where the oak treatment is gentle, so it doesn’t lose its intrinsic brightness.

Try: Ridge 2021 Estate Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains)

This article originally appeared in the May 2024 of Wine Enthusiast magazine.

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]]> These Gorgeous Charcuterie Boards Will Level-Up Your Snack (or ‘Girl Dinner’) Game https://www.wineenthusiast.com/shop/best-charcuterie-board/ Fri, 10 May 2024 13:00:00 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/?p=177744 You already know that wine needs the right glass. The same is true for charcuterie and what you serve it on. [...]

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Pairing wine and food is an art. It requires finding a balance of textures and flavors, the marriage of which can coax out the best qualities of whatever you’re drinking. But what if you’re not sure what goes with what? A spread of various cheeses, meats and other snacks—aka a charcuterie board—creates the prime conditions for exciting, and unexpected, pairings. 

An elevated charcuterie experience, of course, requires the right charcuterie board. And as the saying goes, you eat with your eyes first so thoughtful attention to plating goes a long way. 

First, think about what you’re planning to serve. A stellar board will include a mixture of sweet, salty, tangy and even spicy options. Of course, you can’t go wrong with the classics. Cheese is a crowd-pleaser for good reason—go for a mix goat, cow, sheep and blue cheeses in a range of ages and treatments. When it comes to meats, opt for a selection of forcemeats (think spreadable rillettes, pâtés and terrines). If you plan to serve low-alcohol and high-acid wines, don’t skip the green or black olives. 

You May Also Like: What Is Wine Cheese—And Can You Pair It With Wine?

Dips are also a great charcuterie board addition. Spice things up with homemade pimento cheese or muhammarra, a Middle Eastern red pepper and walnut dip. For a play on high-low, an array of cheesy crackers and chips are a playful alternative to the reliable stalwarts of Carr’s and sliced baguettes. Be sure to toss in some nuts and dried fruit (we’re partial to figs) for good measure.  

Given all this nosh, consider a charcuterie board that comes with tiny dishes to keep your spread organized and tidy. 

Next, consider how people will be eating. Will your guests mostly be eating around a table? If so, a Lazy Susan-like board will keep everything within equitable reach. If you’re more of a mix-and-mingle host, then consider something portable, like this acacia-wood board that comes with individual serving trays, which have notches in them to hold wine glasses.  

Hosting is a lot like staging a performance, from thinking about your cast of characters to designing a set through your tablescape. For the more daring and theatrical, an all-in-one decanter and charcuterie board ensures that wine remains in the spotlight and can steal the show with a dramatic pour.  

Below, we’ve rounded up seven of our favorite charcuterie boards for hosts of all stripes. 


Acacia Wood and Marble Lazy Susan 16-Piece Serving Set

Lazy Susan serving board features two removable marble inserts that can be placed in the fridge before guests arrive keeps food chilled when serving. Includes 3 cheese knives, 3 metal serving picks, 3 metal serving spoons, 3 ceramic bowls and 1 ceramic spiral dish.

$179 Wine Enthusiast

Acacia Wood and Marble Cheese Board With Built-In Cheese Slicer

Integrated cheese slicer makes the perfect cuts; can be used for guests to self-serve or as a prep station. Includes three cheese knives. Features black iron handles for easy carrying and storage drawer for knives.

$119 Wine Enthusiast

All-In-One Acacia Wood Cheese Board and Wine Decanter Serving Set

Twelve-piece set includes 1 cheese board with storage drawer, 1 quartz insert, 1 decanter, 1 spiral aerator, 1 iron decanter stand, 3 ceramic serving bowls, 3 stainless steel cheese knives, 1 corkscrew. Removable quarts insert can be chilled in the fridge before guests arrive to keep cheese and charcuterie cool when serving. Decanter available personalized with initial and name.

$166.99 Wine Enthusiast

Cheesy Puns 8” Individual Cheese Boards and Spreaders (Set of 6)

Includes six 8″ wood boards with attached hand-painted spreaders. Each board is engraved with a clever wine and cheese saying. Made of attractive, durable mango wood; food-safe finish.

$34.99 Wine Enthusiast

Barrel-Inspired 18” Lazy Susan Cheese Board With Divider

Generously sized for bountiful spreads and creative presentations. Removable divider easily organizes cheese, charcuterie, nuts, fruits and other bites. Made from durable solid acacia wood and decorative iron hoop trim.

$119 Wine Enthusiast

Barrel-Inspired Acacia Wood and Chalkboard Swivel Cheeseboard Set

Includes rotating cheese board with chalkboard edge accent, 4 cheese knives, 4 forks, 3 chalkboard cheese marker, 3 ceramic bowls, 2 pcs. Food-safe soapstone chalk. Edge features food-safe chalkboard paint for labeling cheeses or sayings. Top of board swivels open to accessories; features magnetic closure for storage.

$129 Wine Enthusiast

Acacia Wood Serving Board and Cocktail Appetizer Plates With Wine Glass Holders (7-Piece Set)

Includes 1 oval serving platter and 6 appetizer plates for wine, cheese and hors d’oeurvres. Plates with stemware holders allow guests to have a hand free to eat and drink with ease. Plates nest into platter for easy use and storage.

$69.99 Wine Enthusiast
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The Three-Ingredient Boulevardier Is the Dealer’s Choice of Whiskey Cocktails https://www.wineenthusiast.com/recipe/boulevardier-cocktail/ Thu, 09 May 2024 19:46:42 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/recipe/boulevardier-cocktail/ The bold, spirit-forward beverage works well with a wide range of whiskeys, vermouths and red bitters. [...]

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The Boulevardier cocktail is a classic drink composed of Campari, sweet vermouth and whiskey. At its most basic, it’s simply a Negroni that swaps a clear spirit (gin) with one that has seen some oak (whiskey). This seemingly minor tweak creates a vastly different flavor profile that has earned this drink a dedicated place in the cocktail canon.

You May Also Like: 10 Whiskey Brands We’re Excited About Right Now

The drink pre-dates Prohibition, but its first printed mention comes courtesy of Harry MacElhone’s influential 1927 book Barflies and Cocktails. MacElhone, you may recall, was the famed bartender of London’s Ciro Club and Harry’s New York Bar in Paris, and is often credited as the inventor of classics from the Sidecar to the Pink Lady because his recipes are among the first to be widely published.

However, while MacElhone popularized the drink, he attributed its invention to Erskine Gwynne, a wealthy American socialite from the Vanderbilt family who moved to Paris to start a literary magazine called The Boulevardier, meaning a “man about town.”

Is a Boulevardier Rye or Bourbon?

As with many whiskey cocktails, there’s often a debate as to whether bourbon or rye is the better choice. MacElhone printed multiple versions of the recipe and flip-flopped between the spirits. One specifically called for Canadian Club rye and another mentioned that Gwynne preferred bourbon.

This ambiguity has led bartenders and cocktail enthusiasts to customize the drink according to taste. The bold, spirit-forward beverage works well with both standard and high-proof whiskeys. “The Boulevardier is a great dealer’s choice for whiskey drinkers,” says Liz Kelley, head bartender at Cure, a New Orleans establishment heralded as one of the top 50 bars in North America. “It’s a great platform to express the bigger flavors in one’s whiskey of choice.”

You May Also Like: For a Whiskey-Based Answer to the Espresso Martini, Try the Revolver

The ability to personally tailor this three-ingredient drink goes well beyond choosing between bourbon, rye or another whiskey; it has essentially turned the Boulevardier into its own cocktail category. “There’s ample room for interpretation,” Kelley says. “Replace the Campari with another red bitter such as Gran Classico or Carpano and you have a totally different drink.”

Kelley’s favorite variation is an Old Pal with rye, Campari and dry vermouth rather than sweet, which, she says, “yields a high-spice, clean dry sipper accented beautifully with a lemon peel.”

If you want to play around with ingredients, we have roundups of our favorite vermouths and red bitters to try. But, regardless of the adaptation or ingredients, Kelley recommends always serving your Boulevardier up

Boulevardier Recipe

Ingredients

  • 1 ounce sweet vermouth
  • 1 ounce Campari
  • 1 ½ ounce whiskey
  • Lemon or orange peel, for garnish

Directions

Step 1
Combine all ingredients except garnish in a chilled mixing glass filled with ice. Stir for 30–45 seconds. Strain into a rocks glass with fresh ice. Garnish by twisting an orange or lemon peel over the drink, and drop it in.

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When in Rome, Dunk Cookies in Wine https://www.wineenthusiast.com/recipe/italian-cookies-and-wine/ Thu, 09 May 2024 18:32:55 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/?post_type=recipe&p=177734 From Rome and Tuscany to Calabria, there’s a longstanding tradition of serving slightly sweet, crisp cookies alongside—and dunked in—wine. [...]

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All across Italy, from Rome and Tuscany to Calabria, there’s a longstanding tradition of serving slightly sweet, crisp cookies alongside—and dunked in—wine.

The origins of these cookie-and-wine combos are not precisely documented, but recipes generally go back generations. Most boast a purposefully dry texture, allowing them to last for up to several weeks in an airtight container without going stale. That’s where the glass of wine comes in: To soften up these cookies, they are traditionally dunked in red wine.

You May Also Like: TikTok Is Mixing Wine with Milk. It Might Not Be a Bad Thing.

Though you rarely see Americans soaking cookies in beverages other than milk, this age-old Italian dessert has been slowly gaining traction stateside in recent years. Recipes for various regional riffs have been cropping up in online food publications. A hilarious Tiktok recipe reel by @the_pastaqueen featuring one version of “red wine cookies,” posted in 2021, has notched more than 35,000 views. And, in September, Giada de Laurentiis posted a video of herself on X, formerly known as Twitter, enjoying the Tuscan take on the treat.

That’s all the proof we need to begin embracing this tradition. Whether you want to pick up some cookies from an Italian bakery or make your own, here’s how to get started.

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A Defining Texture

Again, it’s unclear when dunking cookies in wine—perhaps the Italian predecessor to Oreos in milk?—became common practice. However, most of these regional specialties bear at least some degree of textural resemblance to crisp and dense biscotti, derived from the Latin “bis” (twice) and “coctum” (baked). While modern baking practices allow for biscotti to be shaped individually before hitting the oven, back in the Roman days, these biscuits were first baked as a loaf, then sliced and toasted to achieve their characteristic hardness. This made them ideal for long-term preservation, a necessity during the extended journeys and conquests of the Roman legions.

Most of the cookies Italians dip into wine boast a similarly hard touch and extended shelf-life, though specific ingredients differ from province to province and baker to baker.

What Are the Best Wines for Dunking Cookies?

“The best thing about Italy is that everything is so regionally specific, so if you go to Emilia-Romagna, you’ll eat biscotti,” says Leigh Omilinsky, pastry chef of Daisies in Chicago. “However, if you go to Tuscany, you get cantucci.”

Both ubiquitous biscotti and its almond-studded Tuscan brethren are traditionally paired with vin santo, a viscous dessert wine typically made from white grapes like Trebbiano and Malvasia. In fact, the combo of “cantucci e vin santo” is so popular in Tuscany, it’s offered at the end of just about any meal, “be it at home or at a restaurant,” according to an article in The Florentine, an English-language magazine published in Florence.

Vin santo is also one of the preferred cookie-dunking wines in the neighboring province of Umbria. Locals dip their tozzetti cookies, which add hazelnuts and aniseed to the almonds typically found in Tuscan cantucci, in local dessert wines like vin santo, or Sagrantino passito, a sweet wine made from semi-dried grapes.

For those partial to chocolate biscotti, writer and wine educator Laura Donadoni recommends pairing them with Barolo Chinato, a wine made in the Barolo appellation enriched with herbs, spices and bittering agents. Originally used for medicinal purposes, Barolo Chinato is often consumed as vin brulé, a warm mulled wine-style digestif. The balance of sweet and bitter flavors stands up well against rich, chocolatey desserts.

You May Also Like: Sweet, Sparkling or Dry: Our Top 10 Moscatos for Every Palate

Dessert wines and digestifs aren’t the only wines that go well with these dippable Italian cookies. Donadoni tends to adhere to a “what grows together, goes together” ethos, matching each regional cookie to a local wine from the area. For instance, in Piedmont and Valle d’Aosta, torcetti—twisted cookies made from butter, flour, sugar, water and yeast that are a sweeter variation of the traditional breadsticks called grissini—are best enjoyed with sweet sparkling wines like Moscato d’Asti.

Much of what makes a match work comes down to the sugar levels in the wines and the cookies. These pairings tend to work better with variations that boast a hint of saltiness or a nutty profile, says Joe Campanale, co-owner of Fausto, LaLou and Bar Vinazo in Brooklyn. “Since many dessert wines are quite sweet, pairing them with very sweet cookies can be a sugar overload,” he says.

This is why slightly drier Moscato and Prosecco are better dips for the Lazian Christmas staple, brutti ma buoni (translating to “ugly but good”), a crunchy mix egg whites, sugar, ground almonds or hazelnuts, vanilla and salt, says wine consultant and author Cathy Mantuano.

tozzetti cookies
Tozzetti Cookies on a plate. Getty.

Another one of Mantuano’s favorite wine-soaked cookies are ciambelline al vino rosso, a version of Lazio’s ring-shaped ciambelline al vino that are crispy on the outside and chewy on the inside. The dough includes equal amounts of red wine and olive oil.

“They are absolutely addictive with wine,” says Mantuano. “One of the first stops we make when we get to Rome is to Forno Campo de’ Fiori to get a bag.”

As the name hints, both versions of ciambelline al vino contain wine in the dough. Made with either white or red wine, extra virgin olive oil and flavored with anise seeds, these crunchy cookies are excellently paired with a sweet and raisin-y Malvasia del Lazio passito, according to Donadoni.

You May Also Like: The Best Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Wines to Drink Right Now

However—great news for those who dislike sweet wines—these wine-infused biscuits also go well with dry reds. To soften up ciambelline, admirers dunk them in local Cesanese del Piglio, slightly tannic wines with fruity aroma such, or Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, which boasts a somewhat similar structure and comparable licorice-like notes that complement the anise in most recipes.

But, like all wine pairings, finding the right match depends upon the individual components and ingredients in each dish. And there are myriad directions one can take it.

At Elvira, a Roman osteria in San Diego, chef-partner Cesarina Mezzoni has been serving an occasional, off-menu special of the classic combo with a buckwheat- and cherry-flavored ciambelline with a glass of Brunello di Montalcino. It’s been a hit with customers.

The robust and complex Tuscan red’s ripe fruit, spice and earthy aromas complement the “earthiness of the buckwheat and the tartness of sour cherries, creating a harmonious balance,” says Mezzoni. “Additionally, the tannic structure helps cleanse the palate after enjoying the ciambelline, preparing it for the next bite and contributing to a sense of fullness and satisfaction.”

How to Make Ciambelline al Vino with Buckwheat and Sour Cherries

Recipe by Cesarina Mezzoni, executive chef and partner of Cesarina and Elvira

Ingredients

  • 4 ½ cups all-purpose flour
  • ⅓ cup buckwheat flour
  • ¾ granulated sugar, plus more for rolling cookies
  • 1 tablespoon baking powder
  • ½ teaspoon baking soda
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • 1 teaspoon anise seeds, whole
  • ½ cup dried sour cherries, roughly chopped
  • ¾ cup olive oil
  • 1 cup red wine

Instructions

Step 1
Using a stand mixer with the paddle attachment combine the flour, buckwheat flour, ¾ cup sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt, anise seeds and sour cherries. Mix until combined.
Step 2
Slowly add the olive oil and wine. Mix until dough is formed.
Step 3
Pre-heat the oven to 350°F.
Step 4
Using plastic wrap, roll the dough into a cylinder and let it rest for 15 minutes.
Step 5
Slice the dough into two-inch rounds. Roll out with your hand until it’s slightly thicker than your finger and form each cookie into a little ring. Dip each one into granulated sugar and bake on a lined sheet pan for 20 minutes or until golden brown.

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At Wine Enthusiast’s Sip of South America, an Energized Crowd Signals a Bright Future https://www.wineenthusiast.com/culture/sip-of-south-america-2024/ Wed, 08 May 2024 21:03:59 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/?p=176278 The event, which highlighted a wide selection of interesting, complex bottlings, painted a rosy picture for the future of South American wine. [...]

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On Monday, May 6, a broad contingent of wine industry professionals and consumers gathered at Wine Enthusiast’s second annual Sip of South America, a curated tasting experience featuring nearly 40 different wineries from across Argentina, Chile and Uruguay. The event, held at City Winery in New York City, highlighted nearly 150 wines—all rated 90 points and up—that represent the impressive and varied terroirs of South America. It also painted a rosy picture for the future of wine from the continent, which is producing an unprecedented selection of interesting, complex bottlings that have industry insiders excited.

The event’s trade portion, which packed in roughly 125 attendees, kicked off with a panel discussion on the current state of South American wine in the U.S. market. Led by Wine Enthusiast Tasting Director Anna-Christina Cabrales and Writer-at-Large and South American Wine Reviewer Jesica Vargas, the discussion included insights from a trio of experts who know the South American wine market intimately: 67 Wine Wine Buyer Oscar Garcia Moncada; Stacey Sosa, owner of Argentinian restaurant Estancia 460 in New York City’s Tribeca neighborhood; and Gary’s Wine & Marketplace Wine Director Gillian Sciaretta.

You May Also Like: In Southernmost South America, Cool-Climate White Wines Reach New Heights

“The panel was a lot of fun,” said Cabrales after the event. “I think that a lot of people were expecting the same old questions—perhaps they didn’t think that anything could excite them about South America. But we surprised them with three panelists who love and embrace everything that is coming out of the region that is innovative.”

The group discussed the bottlings that energize them the most, including white Malbecs, a departure from the red iterations we’ve come to expect from South America. The premiumization of offerings across the continent, chilled reds and high-end whites were also hot topics. There was talk, too, about sparkling wines that are both elegant and age-worthy—an especially interesting turn, given that last year sparkling exports from Chile increased by 90% in volume and 25% in value, Vargas noted.

“They show that there is such a thing as terroir,” Cabrales said. “These wines are not monotonous in any way… we should be paying attention.”

It seems like consumers are already taking note, at least when options are presented in the right way. “Of recent, what really stood out to me would be Chardonnay coming from the Limarí Valley in northern Chile well north of Santiago,” said Sciaretta during the panel. She noted a strong demand for Chablis and Chablis-style Chardonnays amongst her clientele, especially “ones that have a lot of freshness, a lot of minerality.” The Miguel Torres Cordillera Chardonnay proved to be “one of those wines” at an ideal price point. “For us, it’s under $20,” she said. “When we did a strong promotion of it—we alerted all of our Chablis lovers and unoaked Chardonnay lovers, like, ‘You’ve got to try this, it’s fantastic’—and it was a great success.”

You May Also Like: What Gen Z Actually Thinks About Wine, According to Gen Z

After the conversation wrapped up, trade attendees migrated over to a walkround tasting of the event’s featured wines. They also popped into the Sip Lounge, where Writer-at-Large and spirits reviewer Kara Newman led a cocktail demo featuring the grape brandy pisco. Sponsored by Pisco Chile, the segment served to demonstrate the versatility of the spirit, which Newman illustrated through three drinks: a classic pisco sour; a citrusy cocktail dubbed the Fruit & Fizz; and perhaps most interestingly, the Es-Pisco martini, an unexpected riff on the espresso martini.

“Who knew that you could do a beautiful pisco espresso martini?” Cabrales marveled. “It is absolutely delicious.”

Then came the main ticketed event, which drew more than 200 thirsty attendees eager to drink their way through South America. The vibe was energetic in the sprawling City Winery event space, which offered views of the Hudson River and Little Island, the public park that seems to float on concrete pillars. DJ Flavya Gaeta spun a curated mix of lively traditional music from the countries being celebrated, from cumbia to salsa. As the sun set, it cast a golden hue over the crowd. Wine flowed, naturally.

Cabrales was heartened by the youthful faces in the crowd in both the event’s trade and consumer portions.

“I think there’s a really nice mix [of ages] here,” she said. “But it’s also nice to see the next generation of drinkers here. They want to explore, they want to see what’s coming up. And this selection of wines does just that.”

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One attendee, the host of the Let’s Talk Di Tings podcast, who asked to be identified as Ash, was struck by the inclusivity of the gathering. “I am the person who gets the same wine every night at dinner,” she said, confessing that she was concerned producers might brush her off in favor of the more seasoned drinkers in attendance. Instead, she found them friendly and personable, eager to share details about grape varietals, climate, terroir and price points. “I feel completely at ease talking to everyone,” Ash said. “I’ve been to 10 different vendors, and they explained everything. It makes me want to become a wine enthusiast.”

“Despite the market being very difficult across the board, I think there’s just something about the energy in this event that makes people excited,” Cabrales summed up, wine glass in hand. “Your palate can get fatigued pretty quickly at an event like this, which would normally feature a majority of structured reds. But you see people going from one table to the next, nonstop, wanting to explore. I think that’s a sign of the quality [we’re seeing] in South America.”

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It’s Time to Take A Fresh Look at Lambrusco https://www.wineenthusiast.com/culture/wine/its-time-to-take-a-fresh-look-at-lambrusco/ Wed, 08 May 2024 20:53:16 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/2017/10/18/its-time-to-take-a-fresh-look-at-lambrusco/ An oft-maligned Italian wine, many producers are now making distinct, dry and crisp variations of Lambrusco that will fit any wine lover's taste. [...]

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Seeking a dry, crisp and savory wine that pairs with just about any dish on the planet and makes an excellent apéritif? Look for Lambrusco. Yes, Lambrusco.

Once known as the cheap, cheerful and fizzy plonk served with ice cubes, today’s top Lambruscos are a far cry from the industrially made, cloyingly sweet versions that flooded American shelves in the 1970s and ’80s.

The top wines of Lambrusco have such a verve, energy and happiness that you feel better after a few sips,” said Writer-at-Large Jeff Porter, Wine Enthusiast’s resident Italian wine reviewer, back in January. “The continued push towards better farming, drier wines and a revitalization of old-school winemaking techniques are creating wines that show complexity and drinkability in equal proportions.”

You May Also Like: The Best Lambrusco to Drink Right Now

Hailing from the Emilia-Romagna region, Lambrusco is made from its namesake red grape. Or, to be exact, the extended family of varieties grouped under the Lambrusco category.

Once loved and then scorned for its candied sweetness, a number of producers now make distinct, slightly sparkling Lambruscos that belong on every wine lover’s radar. However, buyers beware—the styles vary tremendously and include lightweight, sweet and semi-sweet wines. The best Lambruscos are dry, crisp and delicious. Most are also extremely well-priced. To help you navigate through the ever-evolving category, we’ve put together a guide to the top styles and bottles worth seeking out.

A bottle of Paltrinieri 2016 Radice (Lambrusco di Sorbara) and Cavicchioli 2016 Vigna del Cristo (Lambrusco di Sorbara)
A bottle of Paltrinieri 2016 Radice (Lambrusco di Sorbara) and Cavicchioli 2016 Vigna del Cristo (Lambrusco di Sorbara) / Photo by Meg Baggott

Lambrusco di Sorbara

Lightly colored, fragrant and boasting vibrant acidity, Lambrusco di Sorbara, made from the grape of the same name, is the most refined wine of the Lambrusco category. Made around the village of Sorbara north of Modena, the variety excels in the sandy, fertile plains between the Secchia and Panaro rivers.

Historically, Lambrusco di Sorbara was a dry, crisp wine that finished its fermentation in the bottle to produce a light effervescence. But large cellars then discovered the Charmat method, which is a much quicker and less labor-intensive process where the second fermentation occurs in steel tanks. It also allowed the flexibility to produce sweet wines.

“The Charmat method generated a huge increase in production, but it also ended up destroying Lambrusco’s reputation,” says Alberto Paltrinieri, who runs his family’s winery, Cantina Paltrinieri. Founded in 1926 in the heart of Sorbara, the firm makes wines exclusively with estate grapes.

“Charmat can give excellent results and control quality, or it can be used to make industrial beverages to suit market trends,” says Paltrinieri. “However, longer fermentation times in the tank that last for three months, as opposed to three days, can yield more complex, aromatic wines.”

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Paltrinieri notes a number of producers have gone back to the traditional practice of carrying out the second fermentation in the bottle with no degorging, leaving a fine sediment at the bottom. This method produces dry, terroir-driven wines with personality.

These evolved methods have led to a renaissance for Lambrusco di Sorbara. However, the wine’s rebirth really began in the vineyard, says Paltrinieri, where “greatly decreasing yields has been fundamental.”

Anselmo Chiarli agrees. He’s the managing director of Chiarli 1860, the oldest winery in the region, and Cleto Chiarli, the family’s winery dedicated solely to Lambrusco made with estate grapes. While lowered yields and optimal vineyard sites have aided the resurgence, Chiarli says that identification of the best clones has further enhanced quality.

“In the 1980s, we began recovering the old clones in our vineyards,” he says. “After massal selection [where grafts are taken from existing old vines to propagate plantings, as opposed to planting new nursery vines], we planted the offspring of the best-performing vines.” These old clones give the wines more depth of flavor, which results in greater authenticity.

The best Lambrusco di Sorbara examples are dry, with enticing scents of violet and crisp red-berry flavors. They’re silky, lightly sparkling and offer racy acidity. These are the most food-friendly Lambruscos, pairing beautifully with the region’s hearty cuisine, like cured meat or tortellini in brodo.

Wine Enthusiast recommends:

Medici Ermete 2022 Phermento Lambrusco Rifermentato in Bottiglia Lambrusco di Sorbara (Lambrusco di Sorbara)

A wine of history and pure joy, this watermelon Jolly Rancher-colored sparkling wine bursts out of the glass with aromas of wild strawberry, green herbs and candied rose petals. The bracing palate pops with electric acidity, tart lime, watermelon and saline. A bottle for all occasions. Editor’s Choice. 94 Points — Jeff Porter

$29 Wine 365

Cleto Chiarli 2022 Lambrusco Del Fondatore Lambrusco di Sorbara (Lambrusco di Sorbara)

This zippy sparkler opens with aromas of freshly squeezed cherries that envelop the senses as floral and herbal aromas slowly come into frame providing contrast to the bright fruit notes. Plump mixed berries jump on the palate as the creamy texture and soft bubbles transport the palate to the next level. 93 Points — J.P.

$23 Wine.com

Paltrinieri 2022 Leclisse Lambrusco (Lambrusco di Sorbara)

Delicate aromas of fresh flowers, cherries, McIntosh apple and green herbs open the nose of this elegant sparkling wine. Tart strawberries, cranberries and a hint of vanilla crème give shape to the palate as the gentle perlage acts like silk on the palate. 93 Points— J.P.

$25 Wine.com

Fiorini 2021 Vignadelpadre a Giuseppe Lambrusco di Sorbara (Lambrusco di Sorbara)

This wine opens with aromas of cut strawberries macerated with mint in their own juice alongside wild rose and subtle yeastiness. Sour Bing cherries and fresh thyme lead the way on the palate of this complex and beautiful wine, finishing with zippy acidity and near-perfect bubbles. 94 Points — J.P.

$ Varies Blackwell’s Wine & Spirits
A bottle of Fattoria Moretto NV Mono­vitigno (Lambrusco Graspa­ossa di Castelvetro) and Villa di Corlo 2016 Corleto (Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro).
A bottle of Fattoria Moretto NV Mono­vitigno (Lambrusco Graspa­ossa di Castelvetro) and Villa di Corlo 2016 Corleto (Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro) / Photo by Meg Baggott

Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro

The polar opposite of Lambrusco di Sorbara, wines made with the thick-skinned, late-ripening Lambrusco Grasparossa grape are darkly hued and have more tannic structure than other Lambruscos. And while Lambrusco di Sorbara excels in sandy soils on the plains, Lambrusco Grasparossa needs clay and silt for optimum results.

Grasparossa’s spiritual home is south of Modena, around the town of Castelvetro. Among the earthiest and fullest-bodied of all Lambruscos, Grasparossa di Castelvetro is the flagship wine for this variety.

“Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro is actually more like a red wine, thanks to its body, tannins and structure,” says Fabio Altariva, who runs his family’s Fattoria Moretto winery, in the heart of the Castelvetro hills, along with his brother, Fausto.

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While other Lambrusco varieties grow in the plains, Lambrusco Grasparossa is the only one that does well on the hillsides, Altariva says, at around 650 feet above sea level, where it’s always breezy. Top producers keep yields far below the maximum allowed, and many of these leaders focus on specific vineyard sites for best results.

In the past, Grasparossa bottlings tended to be more rustic, but most producers now seek to make increasingly elegant wines. In part, this is done by careful management of skin maceration to ensure they only extract the right amount of tannins. The best Lambrusco di Grasparossa Castelvetro bottlings are dry, dark and frothy. They offer dark berry and black-skinned fruit flavors, as well as a pleasantly bitter finish.

Wine Enthusiast recommends:

Tenuta Pederzana 2021 Lambrusco (Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro)

This Lambrusco opens with aromas of spiced-plum compote, fresh black fig and pepper. The bold and dense palate is loaded with black-hued fruit flavors melding seamlessly with savory herbs, spices and earthy notes finishing with a round and soft perlage. 91 Points — J.P.

$20 Bottle Shop

Sebastian Van de Sype 2021 Ancestrale Grasparossa di Castelvetro (Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro)

Sebastian Van de Sype is a former aerospace engineer who worked on Formula 1 race cars, but now he is taking his genius to the fields to produce pure, earnest and truthful Lambrusco from 100% Grasparossa. Fresh aromas of plum, blackberry and cassis rise out of the glass with subtle hints of dried leaf and wildflowers in the background, which move to the front as the wine opens. It’s energetic on the palate with a spark of acidity that keeps the palate fresh. Fine bubbles tingle the palate, and the core of fruit continues to develop with each sip. This is an estate to follow. Editor’s Choice. 95 Points — J.P.

$34 Terroirizer
A bottle of Medici Ermete 2016 Lambrusco Concerto (Reggiano) and Cantina di Sorbara NV Dedicato ad Alfredo Molinari (Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce)
A bottle of Medici Ermete 2016 Lambrusco Concerto (Reggiano) and Cantina di Sorbara NV Dedicato ad Alfredo Molinari (Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce) / Photo by Meg Baggott

Lambrusco Salamino

The most planted of the Lambrusco varieties, Lambrusco Salamino is often blended with other grapes to add its generous color and marked acidity without imparting strong flavors. It’s also commonly used to make off-dry and sweet wines.

Lambrusco Salamino is planted extensively in the province of Modena, especially in the northern part of the province around the Santa Croce hamlet near Carpi, where it originated.

While there’s a denomination devoted to the variety, Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce, most producers in the Modena province blend the grape into other Lambrusco bottlings.

Lambrusco Salamino also plays an important role in Lambrusco di Sorbara production. The latter has a flowering anomaly that results in sterile pollen, so growers plant Salamino alongside to act as a pollinator. Up to 40% of Lambrusco Salamino can be used in Lambrusco di Sorbara wines. Lambrusco Salamino is widely cultivated in the Reggio Emilia province, where it’s enjoyed excellent results.

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While the Santa Croce growing zone has fertile soils similar to those of Lambrusco di Sorbara, the plains near the foothills of Reggio Emilia contain more clay and rock.

“Thanks to the soils, Lambrusco Salamino in this area produces richer wines, with more structure and tannins when compared to other areas,” says Alberto Medici, co-owner and part of the fourth generation of his family’s Medici Ermete winery in Reggio Emilia.

Fragrant and fresh, dry wines made with Lambrusco Salamino boast intense red-berry sensations and are well-balanced. They’re somewhere between Lambrusco di Sorbara and Grasparossa bottlings.

“Lambrusco Salamino has vibrant acidity, but still lower acidity than Lambrusco di Sorbara,” says Medici. “And while they are well structured, Lambrusco Salamino wines aren’t as tannic as Grasparossa offerings.”

Wine Enthusiast recommends:

Vigneto Saetti 2021 Rosso Viola Lambrusco Salamino (Lambrusco dell’Emilia)

100% Salamino grown organically in the hills north of Modena this wine is the personification of the Saetti family’s dedication to their craft. Aromas of blackberries, mulberries and tamarind share the glass with violets, dried roses and wild herbs. The palate is lush and vibrant at the same time with rich ripe black-hued fruits balanced with crunchy acidity. The wine has a long and refined finish highlighted by the well-crafted perlage. 95 Points — J.P.

$ Varies The Grapevine

Lini 910 NV Labrusca Bianco Lambrusco Salamino (Lambrusco dell’Emilia)

Enticing aromas of Bosc pear, chamomile, singed orange rind and lemon oil waft from the glass. It’s vibrant and crisp on the palate with tart nectarine, pressed yellow flowers, gentian and bitter almond on the finish. Best Buy. 93 Points — J.P.

$18 Lincoln Fine Wines
A bottle of Cleto Chiarli NV Pruno Nero (Lambrusco di Modena) and Rinaldini NV Lambrusco (Reggiano).
A bottle of Cleto Chiarli NV Pruno Nero (Lambrusco di Modena) and Rinaldini NV Lambrusco (Reggiano) / Photo by Meg Baggott

Lambrusco di Modena and Lambrusco Reggiano

Besides the three DOC/DOP (Denomina­zione di Origine Controllata/Protetta) dedicated to Lambrusco (Lambrusco di Sorbara, Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro and Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce), the small province of Modena also makes Lambrusco di Modena.
Part of the larger Modena denomination that covers the entire province, this designation is more flexible than the three flagship denominations. Lambrusco di Modena can be made with a blend of numerous Lambrusco varieties, and the maximum permitted grape yields are higher.

Bordering with the Modena province, the province of Reggio Emilia also has a long Lambrusco tradition. Reggio Emilia doesn’t have any Lambrusco-only appellations, so Lambrusco plantings are destined to produce Lambrusco Reggiano, which falls under the larger Reggiano umbrella DOP. The appellation covers the entire province, and wines can be made from a blend of Lambrusco varieties.

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When compared to Lambrusco di Modena, maximum grape yields are lower. Even though more Lambrusco is planted in the Modena area, production of Reggiano Lambrusco is larger than Lambrusco di Modena. That’s because most Lambrusco plantings in the Modena province end up in the more celebrated Lambrusco-specific denominations.

Given the large growing areas and more flexible grape blends, wine styles and quality vary tremendously, but there are some very good wines at great price points made under both designations.

Wine Enthusiast recommends:

Podere Giardino 2021 Suoli Cataldi Sparkling (Lambrusco Reggiano)

This is a true classic. Bold and upfront out of the glass with Bing cherry aromas combined with savory herbs, anise and turned earth. The palate pops with more tart fruit notes of Damson plums, pomegranates and sour cherries combined with fresh and dried flowers and a subtle hint of game. It finishes with gentle bubbles and zingy acidity just screaming for a slice of cured meat or aged cheese. Best Buy. 93 Points — J.P.

$20 Somm Cellars

Cleto Chiarli NV Centenario Lambrusco (Lambrusco di Modena)

Exotic spices, dried violets and sweet plum aromas dominate on this juicy and fresh Lambrusco. The lush palate is driven by notes of blackberry, fig and cherry jam all interwined with sweet and savory spices finishing with a pop of acidity. 88 Points — J.P.

$20 Plum Market

Medici Ermete NV Phermento Frizzante Secco Lambrusco (Lambrusco di Modena)

Heady aromas of blueberry and wild cherry lead the nose on this delicious, lively wine. On the lightly sparkling palate, hints of botanical herb and white pepper accent raspberry compote, blueberry and lemon zest before a crisp dry finish. 91 Points — Kerin O’Keefe

$ Varies Mount Carmel Wines
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The Best Australian Wines to Drink Right Now https://www.wineenthusiast.com/ratings/wine-ratings/best-australian-wines/ Wed, 08 May 2024 18:58:10 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/?p=176259 While the region is best known for Shiraz and Chardonnay, Australia has a wealth of under-the-radar bottles and range of styles to suit everyone’s taste. [...]

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Chances are, you know Australia makes wine. But do you know how varied it is, and the leaps the country’s winemaking has taken in just a few short decades?  

While the country has a long history of producing vino—its oldest vines date to 1843 and still produce grapes—there is also a wealth of ambitious producers keen on trying new things. This includes reviving nearly forgotten varietals, turning vineyards into wildlife preserves, experimenting with natural and biodynamic wines and figuring out how to evolve in the face of climate change.  

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“With 65 wine regions spanning a nation with roughly the same land mass as the United States, Australia is one of the wine world’s most diverse and—in this reviewer’s opinion—underrated wine nations,” says Christina Pickard, a Wine Enthusiast writer-at-large who reviews wines from Australia, New Zealand, New York and England. 

While the country is best known for its full-bodied Shiraz and dynamic Chardonnay, Australia offers much more, including other cool-climate varietals like Gamay and Grenache. To celebrate the wealth of wine from the region—and to help make buying them easier—we’ve rounded up a lucky 13 of our favorite bottles. 

“This list demonstrates the country’s astounding diversity of wine styles, from gorgeously complex Margaret River Chardonnay to perfumed McLaren Vale Grenache and world-class Tasmanian bubbles,” Pickard says. “To add to the fun, they’re wines from a mix of small batch, lo-fi producers, medium ones with larger-than-life reputations and large-scale household names. There is truly an Australian wine to suit every palate.” 

Xanadu 2021 Reserve Chardonnay (Margaret River)

A margarita-style Chardonnay if ever there was one, this feels like you’re standing at the edge of the Indian Ocean (less than four miles from where these grapes are grown) on a brisk day, the salty sea air whipping, the sand between your toes, a lemon twist martini in hand. As delicious as it is evocative, it pings in the mouth with a lightly creamy texture and mouthwatering, laser-like, lemon zest acidity that lingers long on the finish, making it impossible to put down. 97 points. Editor’s Choice. — Christina Pickard

$59.99 K&L Wines

Giaconda 2019 Estate Vineyard Shiraz (Beechworth)

From one of the world’s most underrated fine wine regions, Beechworth, this estate enjoys icon status Down Under, selling out in a matter of minutes. Here in the U.S., it’s still a well-kept secret (for now). While the estate is known more for its Chardonnay, this Shiraz bottling is downright gorgeous. With a perfume worthy of slathering all over oneself, it billows notes of macerated blueberry and red berry fruit, a potpourri dish of dried florals and spices, licorice, chocolate and terra-cotta. It’s silky and slinky, soft around the edges like melted chocolate, but lifted by alpine freshness. Supple, sexy and drinking well now, this could continue to evolve until 2030 or so. 97 points. — C.P.

$85.72 Saratoga Wine

Torbreck 2020 RunRig Shiraz-Viognier (Barossa Valley)

Rich, evocative aromas of mulberry, blueberry, coffee bean and hot-cocoa mix lend approachability to what is otherwise a rich, dense wine, packed with flavor, but also with powerful, chalk dust tannins that need serious protein if opening now. Patience will be rewarded, however. Give this a few more years in bottle. 96 points. Cellar Selection. — C.P.

$234.99 Yiannis Wine

Cullen 2021 Kevin John Chardonnay (Margaret River)

Vibrant, concentrated aromas of just-sliced pineapple and lemon bounce from the glass of this premium Margaret River Chardonnay, from one of the region’s most long-standing and progressive producers. There’s a gingery, salted rock undertow. The palate shows creaminess and fruit weight but remains juicy and bright thanks to a beautiful thread of vibrant acidity that ends long and citrusy. Delicious now, this could age until 2033, at least. 96 points. — C.P.

$99 No Limit Fine Wines

Walsh & Sons 2021 Roi Cabernet Sauvignon (Margaret River)

There’s a lovely fruity lightness to this, in comparison to the density of some Margaret River Cabs, with an elegant perfume of red currant, bay leaf and savory spice. The succulent, silky fruit washes over the tongue first, the fine, spicy tannins creeping in later. A focused, food-friendly drop that’s deliciously drinkable right now. 95 Points. — C.P.

$52.99 Wine.com

Henschke 2008 Hill of Grace Shiraz (Eden Valley)

Because the 2019 vintage was so small, Henschke has offered up a few museum releases of vintages that were similar climactically to ‘19. This is a rare opportunity to taste the evolution of Australia’s most famous single-vineyard wine— and what a sexy one it is. With shades of brick starting at its edges, the heady aromatics of a wine in its second decade of transformation are immediately apparent: spiced macerated cherries and blackberries, mocha, the cracked spines of old books, raw beef and hoisin-glazed mushrooms. It’s silky in the mouth, the tannins still firm and powdery, but softening, curving into the folds of the wine, a spiced meat nuance lingering on the long finish. 99 points. — C.P.

$779.28 Saratoga Wine

Brokenwood 2018 Oakey Creek Semillon (Hunter Valley)

This is aging comparatively quickly but it’s showing beautifully. Both vibrant and fruity, and also honeyed and oily, there’s delicate floral, white spice and waxy citrus and peach notes to start. The palate is wonderfully fresh with a long, bright line of lemon acidity that cuts through the viscosity of the mouthfeel. It’s a uniquely Australian style that should hold up for several more years. 94 points. — C.P.

$36.99 Cellar.com

Ochota Barrels 2022 The Price of Silence Gamay (Adelaide Hills)

Since the untimely death of Taras Ochota, who was one of Australia’s modern winemaker rock stars, his wife, Amber, has taken the reins, and wine quality hasn’t suffered. This small-batch Gamay is oh-so-delicious with enticing plump berry fruit and spice aromas and a spicy, herbal, stony mineral underlay. Piercing acidity and chiseled tannins create linearity and drive. There’s an ease and transparency to this that comes from minimal winemaking, and a drinkability that belies solid winemaking and varietal and site expression. 95 points. Editor’s Choice. — C.P.

$61.99 Astor Wines

Unico Zelo 2021 Esoterico White (South Australia)

This is a vibrant snap, crackle and pop wine, from its electric orange color to its bombastic, musky aromas of ginger, florals, honeycomb, candied citrus and peach. It doesn’t disappoint in the mouth, with well-placed skins-y tannins and tingly, spicy acidity. There’s a botanical garden feel and an orange peel note to end. For those more adventurous drinkers—and for those seeking highly ethical winemakers—this won’t disappoint. 94 points. — C.P.

$24.99 Station Plaza Wine

Moorooduc 2018 Pinot Noir (Mornington Peninsula)

Mornington Peninsula is synonymous with Pinot and Moorooduc is one of the region’s top producers. The color of rose petals and bricks, the ’18 vintage is in a lovely place. It’s aromatic and expressive, with potpourri-like aromas of dried red berries, crushed flower petals and spice that knit seamlessly together. They’re underpinned by earthy, autumnal nuances. The ethereal palate comes with a beautiful tang of acidity. It’s framed by ultra-fine, chiseled tannins, which leave room for the delicate red fruit, floral and spice flavors that linger on the lengthy finish. Drink now—2028. 94 points. Editor’s Choice. — C.P.

$34.99 The Half Moon Bay Wine & Cheese Company

Yangarra 2020 Ovitelli Grenache (McLaren Vale)

From one of Australia’s Grenache masters, this is a concentrated-yet-elegant vintage of biodynamic winemaker Pete Fraser’s “egg” wine. Lucid, lifted cran-cherry red fruit is woven with savory herbs, licorice and dried florals, and flecked with minerals. The palate is a tightrope of elegance and power, with tightly wound, talc-textured tannins. Still in its infancy, it has at least another decade left in it. 95 points. — C.P.

$89.99 Wine House

Grosset 2023 Polish Hill Riesling (Clare Valley)

2023 was a cool, late-ripening vintage in the Clare and the resulting wines are elegant and filigreed—approachable now, but with the structure and complexity to age for decades. Delicate aromas of lemon-lime, peach blossom, beeswax and lavender soap open. Like a soft hold of the hand, they lead gently to a pristine palate that’s dry with high-toned fruit and prickly acidity. Texturally it feels both lightly creamy and chalky all at once. 96 points. Cellar Selection. — C.P.

$59.99 Plum Market

Clover Hill 2016 Méthode Traditionnelle (Tasmania)

Medium gold in hue, it instantly offers likable aromas of lemon, toast, margarita salt and cashew. They lead to a wonderfully fresh, zippy palate with a chalky texture, tingly, lemony acidity, a softly creamy mousse and persistent bubbles to the long finish. It is a class act from a top Tassie bubbles producer, and at a cracking price to boot. 94 points. — C.P.

$45 Buy Aussie Wine
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This New York-Bred Hybrid Grape Packs a Big Personality https://www.wineenthusiast.com/basics/grapes-101/cayuga-grape/ Tue, 07 May 2024 18:23:56 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/?p=175893 An uber-useful blender, Cayuga is a white hybrid grape beloved by both grape growers and winemakers. They say it should be way more popular. [...]

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Talk to winemakers and grape growers, and they can be quite persnickety when describing the grapes they work with. More often than not, it’s their irritations with the grapes that draw the most attention—late to ripen, susceptible to disease and so forth.

Except when it comes to Cayuga.

Cayuga is an uber-useful blender and it’s beloved of both grape growers and winemakers,” says Peter Bell, who was the winemaker at Fox Run Vineyards in New York’s Finger Lakes for 27 years, where he made cases and cases and cases (and cases!) of the winery’s Arctic Fox, a semisweet varietal Cayuga. “Cayuga needs little in the way of winemaker elaboration. I love pouring it for people who gravitate to Pinot Grigio, since it has that broad appeal—but way more personality.”

Cayuga, or Cayuga White as it’s sometimes called, is a white Cornell hybrid developed in upstate New York by university researchers in the 1940s but wasn’t released commercially until a couple of decades later. Its history is long and complicated, dating to the mid19th century, when a table grape called Winchell was identified in Vermont. Winchell was later crossed with a grape called Moore’s Diamond (which was itself a Concord cross) and a couple of crosses later, Cayuga showed up. All told, Cayuga’s forebears include native Vitis labrusca varieties, French-American hybrids and even Vitis vinifera.

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As such, says Bell, who now works as a consulting winemaker in the northeast, Cayuga forms the basis of a great many proprietary whites in the Finger Lakes. Winemakers like it because it offers high yields, as much as 200 gallons per ton (some 10 to 15% more than typical). It ripens early, around mid-September, and can be picked at sugar levels as low as 15 or 16 Brix—an amazingly low number for a wine grape. Best yet, says Bell, that’s the level when Cayuga’s flavors are at their peak.

So why isn’t Cayuga more popular? Its geography limits its appeal, given that New York wines are mostly distributed only in New York (though, Bell says the grape is likely to crop up in other cool climates in North America). For another, it bears the stigma of wine made mostly with grapes that aren’t European—too smelly, too sweet and not “real.”

But that’s hardly the case with Cayuga. “We were having a fairly elaborate dinner at Fox Run a few years ago, and before the event we had to find a wine to match with each of the six courses,” recalls Bell. “One course was a cabbage slaw with a few exotic things in it. My standard recommendation for a salad is no wine, but on a lark, we tried it with Arctic Fox. To this day, that pairing has been one of the most successful ever. At the dinner, we were thrilled to be able to tell this story.”


Quick Facts

  • Grape: Cold-hardy white that ripens early, with large, thick-skinned and juicy berries
  • Cross of: Seyval Blanc, a Franco-American hybrid, and Schuyler, a North American hybrid
  • Where Grown: Primarily New York state and the U.S. Northeast
  • Wine Styles: White blends, single varietal and sparkling wines, with a range of sweetness levels
  • Aromas/Flavors: Honeydew melon, lime juice, tropical fruit
  • Food Pairing: Salads and shellfish
  • Fun Fact: One of its grandparents is Zinfandel, which was crossed with Ontario, a North American hybrid, to produce Schuyler

This article originally appeared in the May 2024 of Wine Enthusiast magazine.

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California Dreaming: Top Bottles from the Golden State https://www.wineenthusiast.com/ratings/wine-ratings/best-california-wines/ Mon, 06 May 2024 20:53:48 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/?p=164132 California wine "is in a rebirth period," according to Wine Enthusiast reviewers. Awaken your palate with these expert-approved bottles [...]

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When it comes to American wines, there’s no place like California. The Golden State produces nearly 90% of wine made in the United States, and it is responsible for putting the country—and the New World—on the map as a serious contender for quality bottlings. Remember the 1976 Judgement of Paris, when two upstart California producers triumphed over renowned Bordeaux and Burgundy at a blind tasting judged by France’s top experts? More than 40 years have passed since that landmark tasting that changed the entire wine industry and California is still just as progressive as ever.

Since the start of the year, Wine Enthusiasts expert tasters have sampled nearly 2,400 bottles from Napa and Sonoma to Lodi, Santa Barbara and beyond. As usual, they’ve been blown away by the quality and diversity of options on the market.

“The state of wine in California is in a rebirth period,” says Writer-at-Large Tonya Pitts, Wine Enthusiast’s Northern California and California AVA reviewer. “There are so many options for the wine drinker to drink and discover. Frankly, it reminds me of 30-plus years ago, when experimentation was happening with small wineries. We see this same cycle happening again—the curiosity of what else can be grown and nurtured in the landscape we call California.”

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As Pitts puts it, the state is still like a metaphor for the broader U.S., “a melting pot of grape varietals, both classic and nouveau,” she says. This includes everything from Napa’s world-famous Cabs, new-to-the-New-World varietals that are well-suited to a changing climate and a revival of vines and grapes that arrived in the state with settlers, in some cases dating back to the Conquistadors.

While these wide-ranging options are wonderful and exciting, it also makes it harder to decide on the bottle at the shop. But that’s where we come in. From traditional Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay to vibrant Pinot Noir and old-vine Zinfandel, these are the best California wines to drink right now.


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Pennyroyal Farm 2022 Hammer Olsen Vineyard Chardonnay (Anderson Valley)

This wine delivers vivacious stone fruit, lemon, white flowers and fresh rosemary along with super-balanced acid, mineral and earth. This is the beginning of a long-lasting relationship. You are going to want climb on board for this one? Hold or drink until 2033. Cellar Selection. 94 Points — Tonya Pitts

$35 Pennyroyal Farm

Grayson 2022 Lot 10 Cabernet Sauvignon (California)

Produced from small lots from around California, this wine offers notes of dried rose petals, potpourri and plums. These flavors give way to watermelon and round out to hot-tamale candy and a dry finish. The wine would pair nicely with braised meats. Best Buy. 92 Points— T.P.

$12 Yianni’s

Obsidian Wine Co. 2021 Volcanic Estate Obsidian Ridge Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Hills)

This wine is deep purple with aromas of unripe blackberry, blueberry, olallieberry, fresh bay leaf, vanilla scented potpourri. The midpalate is black olive, green olive, rosemary, orange zest, transmitting into ripe black fruit, dried tobacco leaves and salted truffle chocolate. 94 Points — T.P.

$40 Obsidian Wine Co.

Domenica Amato 2021 Estate Grenache (Dry Creek Valley)

Bright cherry and berry aromas erupt from the glass of this wine. Generous citrusy acidity brings the cherry compote, cinnamon and brown-sugar flavors into focus on the palate. This feels like a distinctly California version of Grenache, with generous texture from some whole-cluster inclusion. 93 Points —Tom Capo

$49 Emmitt-Scorsone Winegrowers

EnRoute 2022 Les Pommiers Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley)

Vibrant ruby in color, this wine erupts from the glass with aromas of sweet cinnamon, cola and cherry. There is a charming delicacy here, with flavors of dried rose petal, cherry and berry pie filling on a midweight palate. A captivating dance between the snappy tannin structure and the lively acidity of this wine lead to a very pleasurable finish. 93 PointsT.C.

$60 EnRoute

Angels & Cowboys 2023 Rosé (Sonoma County)

The color of this rosé is pale peach, verging on rose gold. Striking aromas of fresh cherry and limeade dominate the nose. The palate shows varied flavors including watermelon, strawberry and lemon-lime in a lively, acidic framework. Best Buy. 90 PointsT.C. 

$16 Wine.com

RZN 2022 The Love Letters Issue Nolan Ranch Vineyard Clairette Blanche (Santa Barbara County)

This is one of the more exciting white wines of late, and possibly the best stab at Clairette Blanche yet from the Central Coast. Clean aromas of nectarine, blanched almond and lemon glaze lead into a grippy palate that simmers with acidity, adding pear peel and brisk apple to the mix. Editor’s Choice. 94 Points — Matt Kettmann

$30 RZN Wines

Rhônedonnée 2021 Night Ride Syrah (Edna Valley)

This wine sports an action-packed nose, hefty, savory, dense and ripe at once. Aromas of blackened beef, turned earth, blackberry and purple flower lead from the nose into a palate that sizzles with zippy acidity, carrying blueberry, elderberry, roasted meat and desert herb flavors. 95 Points — M.K.

$60 Rhônedonnée Wines

Tread 2021 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara County)

Winemaker Kristin Bryden is proving to be a savant in the Burgundian grape game. This county cuvée is delicious from start to finish. Vibrant, fresh and juicy aromas of strawberry, Bing cherry and earthy chaparral lead from the nose into a grippy, energetic palate of red fruit and brown spices. Editor’s Choice. 95 Points — M.K.

$40 Zaca Mesa

Frog’s Leap 2021 Shale and Stone Chardonnay (Carneros-Napa Valley)

Bright acidity washes flavors of crisp apple, creamy lemon, grapefruit zest and wet stone through the mouth into an impressively long finish. This Chardonnay is as much about freshness and energy as it is purity and restraint. The use of French oak offers a touch of spice and texture for another layer of interest through the finish. 93 Points — Elaine Chukan Brown

$42 Frog’s Leap

Robert Biale 2022 Dickerson Vineyard Zinfandel (St. Helena)

Aromas of Bing cherry are greeted by flavors of mixed citrus, mint and wafts of cedar. It’s a sophisticated, detailed and intriguing wine with fine-grained tannins and a mouthwatering, long finish. Beautifully crafted and nuanced. Drink now or hold for continued aging. Cellar Selection. 96 Points — E.C.

$75 Biale.com

Truchard 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon (Carneros-Napa Valley)

Juicy, flavorful and approachable, this wine is delicious and good value. Dripping with ripe plum, freshly picked berries and just enough cocoa for additional depth, this wine is a smart choice to please everyone at a meal, including the wine aficionado. 92 Points — E.C.

$46 Wine.com

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The Best Wineries (and More) to Visit in Maryland Right Now https://www.wineenthusiast.com/culture/travel/maryland-wineries/ Mon, 06 May 2024 20:30:35 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/?p=176218 Maryland's wine scene is on the rise, carving out its own identity alongside its better-known neighbor, Virginia. [...]

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It’s Maryland wine’s time to shine. The state’s wine scene is on the rise, carving out its own identity alongside its more well-known neighbor, Virginia.

The industry has blossomed from a dozen wineries at the turn of the century to over 80 today, according to the Maryland Wineries Association, with distinct winemakers crafting bottles that highlight a wide range of varietals. “Maryland wine feels like a kaleidoscope right now,” says Regina McCarthy, general manager of The Vineyards at Dodon in Davidsonville.

That’s partially due to Maryland’s famously diverse terrain, which has earned it the nickname “America in Miniature.” Central Maryland, with its moderate climate and lush rolling hills, has historically been the focal point for vineyards, producing Bordeaux-style red blends alongside global varietals like Albariño and Nebbiolo. It also includes Maryland’s first established AVA, Linganore. But these days, wineries are flourishing all across the state, from the balmy countryside of Southern Maryland to the cooler mountainous regions of Western Maryland and across the Chesapeake Bay on the Eastern Shore.

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Bernie Vogel, a seasoned wine professional based in Maryland, has observed the evolution firsthand over the past 35 years. “Today, we’re seeing Maryland’s ‘second generation’ of producers looking at the ‘Old World’ for regions that have similar climates and geography and doubling down on varietals that are more suited to our terroir,” he says. “The quality of the wines produced has improved significantly.”

A trip that explores Maryland’s wineries could unfold in several different ways. You could stay in an urban center like Baltimore or Annapolis, using it as a base for dining and lodging, then venture out for day trips to rural wineries. You could pick one of Maryland’s four wine regions and go deep visiting several wineries in the area. Of course, you could always take advantage of the state’s compact size and make it your mission to visit one or two wineries in all of the wine regions.

There’s no right or wrong approach. To guide you through this dynamic landscape, we consulted wine experts from across Maryland who are well-versed in the state’s wine and dining trends.

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Central Maryland

Central Maryland’s Piedmont Plateau, just north of Baltimore, is home to some of the state’s oldest and finest wineries, with a long history of being a destination for wine lovers. Stretching from the rolling foothills west of Frederick to the Chesapeake Bay headwaters, the region boasts rich soil and an optimal climate that make it a premier wine-growing region.

Old Westminster
Image Courtesy of Old Westminster

Old Westminster Winery

The Baker siblings established this winery, situated 40 miles northwest of Baltimore in Carroll County, with the aim of preserving their family farmland. After two years of research, they planted 7,600 grapevines, including Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Chardonnay and Albariño. Offering tastings by reservation Friday through Sunday, guests can enjoy wine flights, wood-fired pizzas, and other local fare in their cozy farmhouse-style tasting room with scenic views or relax on spacious patios overlooking the vineyard.

Bernie Vogel has spotted th operation’s canned Farmer Fizz and pét-nats in restaurants and wine shops all the way up in Portland, Maine. He thinks their Chardonnay is top-notch. And as co-owner of JeannieBird Baking Company in Westminster, he stocks it in the small wine section of the shop.

“Far and away, Old Westminster Winery has set a new standard for the possibilities of what can be produced in Maryland,” he says. “Winemaker Lisa Hinton produces beautiful whites and red ‘vin de garde,’ as well as carved out a national reputation in the natural wine community.”

Black Ankle Vineyards
Image Courtesy of Black Ankle Vineyards

Black Ankle Vineyards

Since 2008, founders Ed Boyce and Sarah O’Herron have created estate-grown wines in Mt. Airy with the guidance of consulting Bordelais winemaker Lucien Guillemet. Selections include Gruner Veltliner, Chardonnay, Syrah and Bordeaux-style red blends. Open daily, their tasting room, which boasts magnificent views from its partially covered vineyard-facing patio, offers wines by the flight, bottle, carafe and glass, along with prepackaged local fare including cheese and charcuterie.

Guided tastings are $26, and vineyard tours are available on select days by request. Weekends often feature food trucks, spanning from brunch to tacos and barbecue, all paired with live music.

Elk Run Vineyard and Winery
Image Courtesy of Elk Run Vineyard and Winery

Elk Run Vineyard and Winery

Also in Mt. Airy, Elk Run Vineyards, founded in 1979, is nestled in a bucolic pastoral setting framed by dairy farms and fields of wheat and corn. It produces a wide range of grapes from Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon to Gewürztraminer and Petit Verdot. The winery, named after a nearby stream, was Maryland’s first all-vinifera vineyard.

Visitors can enjoy wine flights on the scenic grounds, which are dotted with picnic tables (outside food is welcome) and peppered with the sound of seasonal live music during the warmer months. Tastings of six wines are $20, with free tours on weekends. Local musicians perform on weekends from May to October.

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Boordy Vineyards
Image Courtesy of Boordy Vineyards

Boordy Vineyards

This vineyard in Baltimore County, established in 1945, lays claim to the title of Maryland’s oldest winery. Under the Deford family’s guidance since 1980, the winery spans two vineyards across distinct Maryland microclimates. Long Green Vineyard, in the Piedmont Plateau, yields Sauvignon Blanc and light reds, while South Mountain Vineyard, in the Blue Ridge Mountains, produces Cabernet Franc, Merlot and more.


Weekends feature live music, food trucks and picnic seating (guests are also welcome to bring their own food). Guided tastings start at $12 for five wines, with bottle and case purchases available at the on-site wine shop.

Linganore Wines
Image Courtesy of Linganore Wines

Linganore Winecellars

Established in 1976, Linganore Winecellars, also located in Mt. Airy, offers a diverse range of wines, including classic varietals like Chardonnay, unique sweet blends, fruit wines and an acclaimed Terrapin white blend made of hybrid Melody and Vidal Blanc grapes.

Bar tastings cost $12 and are available daily without reservations. Private tastings and tours of the idyllic property can be booked in advance. Visitors are drawn to the beautiful countryside setting that boasts a convivial atmosphere thanks to live music and food trucks every weekend. Porch, deck table and fire tables, for use all day long, can be reserved in advance.

Basignani Winery
Image Courtesy of Basignani Winery

Basignani Winery

Located north of Baltimore in Glencoe, Basignani Winery, established in 1986 by Italian immigrant Bertero Basignani, annually produces 6,500 gallons of wine. Selections span from classic Chardonnay and robust Cabernet Sauvignon blends to the popular Elena Rosé, a slightly sweet blend of Chardonnay, Riesling, Vidal and Chambourcin.

During the day, weekend wine tastings are available in the rustic, barrel-filled tasting room by appointment for $10, with walk-ins welcome as space permits. Warm weekend nights feature live music under the covered pavilion, where guests can nosh on brick-oven pizza.

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Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard
Image Courtesy of Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard

Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard

Located just 40 miles northwest of Washington, D.C., at the base of Sugarloaf Mountain, this vineyard was founded in 2006 by owner Emily Yang and winemaker Manolo Gomez. Hand-picked grapes from the 22-acre estate are transformed into Bordeaux-inspired reds and crisp whites aged in stainless-steel or French oak barrels.

Open daily for walk-ins, the compact tasting room offers tastings and flights, with free tours available by reservation. On warm weekends, visitors, enticed by food trucks and picnic-friendly policies, spill out onto the patio with views of the vineyard.

Where to Stay

Housed in a beautifully renovated 1880s mansion in the Mt. Vernon neighborhood of Baltimore, The Ivy Hotel is Maryland’s only Relais & Châteaux property. It features nine rooms and eight spacious suites, each uniquely decorated, and amenities like a gourmet breakfast and valet parking. Dine in its Robert M. Parker Wine Cellar at Magdalena restaurant, featuring small-production American wines and rare vintages from around the world.

Hotel Revival, also in Mount Vernon, is a boutique hotel brimming with personality and rooms decorated in an attractive mix of Arts and Crafts and contemporary styles. Topside, the rooftop restaurant and bar, features a seafood-heavy menu and panoramic views of Baltimore and the harbor.

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Where to Eat

Maryland wines can be hard to come by at local restaurants due to distribution challenges, but Gunther & Co. in Baltimore’s Canton neighborhood is an exception. General manager and co-owner Nancy Trice strives to create a well-rounded wine list that balances quality and value, for example suggesting patrons pair Black Ankle's Bedlam, a white blend, with the restaurant's homemade tagliatelle featuring spring vegetables.

At The Charleston on Baltimore’s waterfront, chef Cindy Wolf makes modern dishes influenced by French and Low Country traditions while wine director Tony Foreman considers the growing season and tastes of the restaurant’s clientele while curating a list of more than 700 wines.


Western Maryland

The rugged yet promising wine-growing area of Western Maryland is shaped by the erosion of alluvial soil, which is imbued with a deep and fertile richness over thousands of years by the Appalachian Mountains. Despite enduring long winters and short growing seasons, vineyards in this area flourish due to the well-drained slate-based soils and refreshing cool breezes. Several vineyards in the region focus on cultivating cold-hardy grape varieties including Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Vidal Blanc.

Big Cork Vineyards
Image Courtesy of Jacob Reid Photography

Big Cork Vineyards

Located in Rohrersville and founded in 2011 by Randy Thompson and Dave Collins, Big Cork Vineyards sprawls across 100 acres in the Blue Ridge Mountains. Cultivating 18 grape varieties, they produce over 25 estate wines, including Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc.

Visitors are welcome to explore their collection while sitting at individual tables or kicking back on the sleek white sofas in the mid-century modern tasting room. It’s open Thursday through Monday by appointment. Tastings are $20 per person, and guests can also enjoy selections from an on-site food market that sells cheeses, fresh-baked bread, charcuterie and more.

Catoctin Breeze Vineyard
Image Courtesy of Catoctin Breeze Vineyard

Catoctin Breeze Vineyard

Founded by Polish immigrants Voytek and Alicia Fizyta, Catoctin Breeze Vineyard is led by Winemaker Mike Lentini and produces around 2,500 cases annually. Bottlings range from single-varietal Syrah and Teroldgego to pét-nats and red blends.

The tasting room is open Thursday through Monday with first-come, first-served seating for groups of up to six. The Vigneron's Choice Tasting for $24 includes six wines—make sure to sample the Cabernet Franc. On weekends, enjoy local food trucks and charcuterie sourced from nearby and feel free to bring your own food for a picnic outside.

Where to Stay

Antrim 1844 on a 24-acre estate in Taneytown offers convenient access to wineries in both central and western Maryland and boasts the area's largest wine program. The historic inn, meticulously restored to its 1844 grandeur by owners Richard and Dorothy Mollette, features one of the East Coast's largest wine cellars with over 15,000 bottles. At The Smokehouse, indulge in a unique six-course prix-fixe dinner, enhanced with a curated selection of wines available at an extra charge.

If it’s convenience you’re after, consider Turf Valley Resort, which is spread across 1,000 acres in Ellicott City, a mere 20-minute drive east from Mt. Airy via I-70. In addition to a range of stylish guest rooms and suites, you’ll find tons of amenities like a spa, pools, tennis and pickleball courts and two championship golf courses.

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Where to Eat

Bernie Vogel praises The Tasting Room in Frederick for its dynamic wine program. Located in the city’s historic district, the restaurant’s floor-to-ceiling windows offer panoramic views of Market St. Its innovative cuisine that emphasizes fresh, local ingredients has earned it regional acclaim.

For a more relaxed meal, consider Thacher & Rye, where acclaimed chef Bryan Voltaggio's regional Mid-Atlantic cuisine is prepared with seasonal, local ingredients in a refined yet relaxed atmosphere. Think Virginia cured ham with cornbread and chili pepper-cultured butter and smoked short ribs with celery root and green peppercorn jus.

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Southern Maryland

Southern Maryland's wineries embrace the area's farming roots and growing renown as a wine destination. As one of the state's oldest and most historic areas, former tobacco fields have transformed into vineyards, with rustic barns serving as inviting tasting rooms at numerous spots. This shift is also making wine tastings and culinary adventures more easily accessible from nearby cities, with some of these wineries located just over an hour from Baltimore and Washington, D.C.

Robin Hill
Image Courtesy of Robin Hill

Robin Hill Farm and Vineyards

Family-owned since 1955, find Robin Hill Farm and Vineyards in Prince George’s County, just 25 minutes from Washington, D.C. With a view of red barns and rolling hills, the farm offers estate-grown wines from six varietals planted across five acres. Producing 1,500 cases yearly, the Watson family ferment, age and bottle wines on-site, occasionally sourcing grapes from other Maryland vineyards. Their renovated tobacco barn-turned-winery and tasting room exude warmth and history, providing a bucolic setting to savor wines like the Pi'Goat Blanc, a sweet rosé made of Chambourcin and Vidal Blanc with notes of strawberries and cherries.

Running Hare Vineyards
Image Courtesy of Running Hare Vineyards

Running Hare Vineyard

The tasting room at this vineyard in Calvert County, set on 291 acres of former tobacco field, is open Thursday through Sunday, offering live music and a festive atmosphere on weekends. Try their wine flights with four samples, such as oak-aged Chambourcin, or indulge in refreshing wine slushies on sunny days. Grab a seat at one of the patio tables in the adjacent barn-like biergarten, and sip on local brews or signature wines while savoring wood-fired pizzas from Pizza Di Vigna.

Port of Leonard Town Winery
Image Courtesy of Port of Leonard Town Winery

Port of Leonardtown Winery

As a cooperative winery, Port of Leonardtown brings together 12 member vineyards across St. Marys, Charles, Calvert and Kent counties. Gather around the curved bar for a glass of rosé at this cozy and unassuming tasting room located in a historic building at the Port of Leonardtown Public Park. On warm weekends, the grounds outside are transformed into a festive lawn-party atmosphere with live music, food trucks and wine slushies.

Dodon Vineyard
Image Courtesy of Dodon Vineyard

The Vineyards at Dodon

Polly Pittman and Tom Croghan, the winemaker, lead four generations of family tradition here. Flagship varieties are Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot, with Oronoco, a rich blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot standing out as Pittman’s personal favorite.

Visitors to the vineyard experience the family's hospitality in a space reflecting their tastes—simple yet refined, modern yet pastoral. Tastings and tours are available on weekends by appointment only. The most casual and flexible option is the self-guided flight, which includes pours of four Dodon-series wines. Guests can also order wine cocktails, wines by glass, cheese and charcuterie from a menu during the visit. The whole goal of the place is to encourage visitors to relax.

Where to Stay

Located just steps from downtown Annapolis, 134 Prince offers expansive common areas, lush gardens and lavish guest rooms set inside an 1849 Dutch Colonial. And in the Eastport neighborhood, the Inn at Horn Point offers peaceful nights in modern rooms, with amenities like free parking and E.V. charging. For a rural getaway, Susannah's Watch, a historic manor on the Dixon Family Farm, offers a unique riverside bed-and-breakfast experience in St. Mary’s County.

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Where to Eat

Housed inside a former bungalow home in the Eastport neighborhood, Vin 909, a cozy "winecafe," is renowned for its brick-oven fired pizzas. Also find salads, entrees like skirt steak with a spicy Moroccan sauce and steamed littleneck clams, as well as wines available by the bottle or glass. The ingredients found in their dishes are sourced from local, organic and sustainable providers whenever possible.

Preserve, a casual New American restaurant eatery near Main Street in Annapolis, offers a unique selection of dishes featuring canned, pickled and fermented ingredients. Husband-and-wife team Jeremy and Michelle Hoffman have also recently expanded to Severna Park in Roanoke County with Garten, a natural wine and beer garden showcasing local favorites. “Not only do they have a really fun food program and wine program, but they also have a great retail section of the restaurant where you can go and buy bottles to take home with you,” says McCarthy. “And they've also been very supportive of the local industry.”


Eastern Shore

On the east side of the Chesapeake Bay, the Eastern Shore boasts fertile soil and a mild climate perfect for growing grapes. Explore this region’s refreshing sea breezes and stunning views, paired with the authentic flavors of Maryland through locally-sourced seafood.

Blue Elk Vineyard
Image Courtesy of Blue Elk Vineyard

Blue Elk Vineyard

Blue Elk Vineyard, perched on the shores of the Elk River, has 14 acres of hillside vineyards. Founded in 2020 on the historic grounds of Bohemia Overlook, the winery resides in a meticulously restored horse barn that dates back to the 1930s. The wood-covered tasting room, once horse stables, offers private experiences Thursday through Sunday. Guests can order flights, glasses, bottles and wine and cider cocktails like their signature apple cider mimosa while digging into charcuterie boards and rotating specials like flatbreads and salads.

Crow Vineyard and Winery
Image Courtesy of Crow Vineyard and Winery

Crow Vineyard

Crow Vineyard & Winery, located just minutes from historic Chestertown and Chesapeake City, celebrates three generations of farming heritage on its expansive 365-acre estate.Transitioning from beef and grain to grape cultivation in 2010, owners Roy and Judy Crow have produced Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot and Barbera. With a homey tasting room open daily from 12 to 5 p.m., guests can choose between the spacious Hay Barn or intimate Milk House for a flight and light, local fare.

Where to Stay

Crow Vineyard also invites guests to experience their Farmstay B&B in a newly renovated, energy-efficient 1847 farmhouse. Moving southward, plenty of quality accommodations can be found in St. Michaels, an idyllic Victorian resort town along the Chesapeake Bay. Great options include the nautical-themed Inn at Perry Cabin, plus the chic The Wildset Hotel, which incorporates the town's former 1830s schoolhouse.

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Where to Eat

Inside the Wildest Hotel, Ruse offers a seafood-focused dining experience with an eclectic wine list featuring selections from around the world. "I just want to always offer up new, fun and exciting bottles and grapes that people haven't tried," says Food and Beverage Director Allie Ballin. "It's always kind of my mission to expose people to new stuff."

Just 15 minutes away in the town of Easton, Bluepoint Hospitality Group has transformed the town with cosmopolitan restaurants and shops. Bas Rouge offers Viennese fine dining, and the vast wine list reflects that with its extensive Austrian and German selections in addition to American and French wines. The selection at the Wardroom, Bluepoint's epicurean market, is more of a "full spectrum," says Wine and Beverage Director Natalie Tapken. It offers various wines, including Spanish, Italian, American, German, Austrian, French and Greek selections.

The group also has a winery in the works. With the help of notable Napa-based winemaker Helen Keplinger, they’ve planted grapes at their own winery just outside Eaton and are awaiting their first vintage.

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