The origins of these cookie-and-wine combos are not precisely documented, but recipes generally go back generations. Most boast a purposefully dry texture, allowing them to last for up to several weeks in an airtight container without going stale. That’s where the glass of wine comes in: To soften up these cookies, they are traditionally dunked in red wine.

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Though you rarely see Americans soaking cookies in beverages other than milk, this age-old Italian dessert has been slowly gaining traction stateside in recent years. Recipes for various regional riffs have been cropping up in online food publications. A hilarious Tiktok recipe reel by @the_pastaqueen featuring one version of “red wine cookies,” posted in 2021, has notched more than 35,000 views. And, in September, Giada de Laurentiis posted a video of herself on X, formerly known as Twitter, enjoying the Tuscan take on the treat.

That’s all the proof we need to begin embracing this tradition. Whether you want to pick up some cookies from an Italian bakery or make your own, here’s how to get started.

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A Defining Texture

Again, it’s unclear when dunking cookies in wine—perhaps the Italian predecessor to Oreos in milk?—became common practice. However, most of these regional specialties bear at least some degree of textural resemblance to crisp and dense biscotti, derived from the Latin “bis” (twice) and “coctum” (baked). While modern baking practices allow for biscotti to be shaped individually before hitting the oven, back in the Roman days, these biscuits were first baked as a loaf, then sliced and toasted to achieve their characteristic hardness. This made them ideal for long-term preservation, a necessity during the extended journeys and conquests of the Roman legions.

Most of the cookies Italians dip into wine boast a similarly hard touch and extended shelf-life, though specific ingredients differ from province to province and baker to baker.

What Are the Best Wines for Dunking Cookies?

“The best thing about Italy is that everything is so regionally specific, so if you go to Emilia-Romagna, you’ll eat biscotti,” says Leigh Omilinsky, pastry chef of Daisies in Chicago. “However, if you go to Tuscany, you get cantucci.”

Both ubiquitous biscotti and its almond-studded Tuscan brethren are traditionally paired with vin santo, a viscous dessert wine typically made from white grapes like Trebbiano and Malvasia. In fact, the combo of “cantucci e vin santo” is so popular in Tuscany, it’s offered at the end of just about any meal, “be it at home or at a restaurant,” according to an article in The Florentine, an English-language magazine published in Florence.

Vin santo is also one of the preferred cookie-dunking wines in the neighboring province of Umbria. Locals dip their tozzetti cookies, which add hazelnuts and aniseed to the almonds typically found in Tuscan cantucci, in local dessert wines like vin santo, or Sagrantino passito, a sweet wine made from semi-dried grapes.

For those partial to chocolate biscotti, writer and wine educator Laura Donadoni recommends pairing them with Barolo Chinato, a wine made in the Barolo appellation enriched with herbs, spices and bittering agents. Originally used for medicinal purposes, Barolo Chinato is often consumed as vin brulé, a warm mulled wine-style digestif. The balance of sweet and bitter flavors stands up well against rich, chocolatey desserts.

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Dessert wines and digestifs aren’t the only wines that go well with these dippable Italian cookies. Donadoni tends to adhere to a “what grows together, goes together” ethos, matching each regional cookie to a local wine from the area. For instance, in Piedmont and Valle d’Aosta, torcetti—twisted cookies made from butter, flour, sugar, water and yeast that are a sweeter variation of the traditional breadsticks called grissini—are best enjoyed with sweet sparkling wines like Moscato d’Asti.

Much of what makes a match work comes down to the sugar levels in the wines and the cookies. These pairings tend to work better with variations that boast a hint of saltiness or a nutty profile, says Joe Campanale, co-owner of Fausto, LaLou and Bar Vinazo in Brooklyn. “Since many dessert wines are quite sweet, pairing them with very sweet cookies can be a sugar overload,” he says.

This is why slightly drier Moscato and Prosecco are better dips for the Lazian Christmas staple, brutti ma buoni (translating to “ugly but good”), a crunchy mix egg whites, sugar, ground almonds or hazelnuts, vanilla and salt, says wine consultant and author Cathy Mantuano.

The Ultimate Wine and Cookie Situation

Another one of Mantuano’s favorite wine-soaked cookies are ciambelline al vino rosso, a version of Lazio’s ring-shaped ciambelline al vino that are crispy on the outside and chewy on the inside. The dough includes equal amounts of red wine and olive oil.

“They are absolutely addictive with wine,” says Mantuano. “One of the first stops we make when we get to Rome is to Forno Campo de’ Fiori to get a bag.”

As the name hints, both versions of ciambelline al vino contain wine in the dough. Made with either white or red wine, extra virgin olive oil and flavored with anise seeds, these crunchy cookies are excellently paired with a sweet and raisin-y Malvasia del Lazio passito, according to Donadoni.

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However—great news for those who dislike sweet wines—these wine-infused biscuits also go well with dry reds. To soften up ciambelline, admirers dunk them in local Cesanese del Piglio, slightly tannic wines with fruity aroma such, or Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, which boasts a somewhat similar structure and comparable licorice-like notes that complement the anise in most recipes.

But, like all wine pairings, finding the right match depends upon the individual components and ingredients in each dish. And there are myriad directions one can take it.

At Elvira, a Roman osteria in San Diego, chef-partner Cesarina Mezzoni has been serving an occasional, off-menu special of the classic combo with a buckwheat- and cherry-flavored ciambelline with a glass of Brunello di Montalcino. It’s been a hit with customers.

The robust and complex Tuscan red’s ripe fruit, spice and earthy aromas complement the “earthiness of the buckwheat and the tartness of sour cherries, creating a harmonious balance,” says Mezzoni. “Additionally, the tannic structure helps cleanse the palate after enjoying the ciambelline, preparing it for the next bite and contributing to a sense of fullness and satisfaction.”

How to Make Ciambelline al Vino with Buckwheat and Sour Cherries

Recipe by Cesarina Mezzoni, executive chef and partner of Cesarina and Elvira

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Once known as the cheap, cheerful and fizzy plonk served with ice cubes, today’s top Lambruscos are a far cry from the industrially made, cloyingly sweet versions that flooded American shelves in the 1970s and ’80s.

The top wines of Lambrusco have such a verve, energy and happiness that you feel better after a few sips,” said Writer-at-Large Jeff Porter, Wine Enthusiast’s resident Italian wine reviewer, back in January. “The continued push towards better farming, drier wines and a revitalization of old-school winemaking techniques are creating wines that show complexity and drinkability in equal proportions.”

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Hailing from the Emilia-Romagna region, Lambrusco is made from its namesake red grape. Or, to be exact, the extended family of varieties grouped under the Lambrusco category.

Once loved and then scorned for its candied sweetness, a number of producers now make distinct, slightly sparkling Lambruscos that belong on every wine lover’s radar. However, buyers beware—the styles vary tremendously and include lightweight, sweet and semi-sweet wines. The best Lambruscos are dry, crisp and delicious. Most are also extremely well-priced. To help you navigate through the ever-evolving category, we’ve put together a guide to the top styles and bottles worth seeking out.

Lambrusco di Sorbara

Lightly colored, fragrant and boasting vibrant acidity, Lambrusco di Sorbara, made from the grape of the same name, is the most refined wine of the Lambrusco category. Made around the village of Sorbara north of Modena, the variety excels in the sandy, fertile plains between the Secchia and Panaro rivers.

Historically, Lambrusco di Sorbara was a dry, crisp wine that finished its fermentation in the bottle to produce a light effervescence. But large cellars then discovered the Charmat method, which is a much quicker and less labor-intensive process where the second fermentation occurs in steel tanks. It also allowed the flexibility to produce sweet wines.

“The Charmat method generated a huge increase in production, but it also ended up destroying Lambrusco’s reputation,” says Alberto Paltrinieri, who runs his family’s winery, Cantina Paltrinieri. Founded in 1926 in the heart of Sorbara, the firm makes wines exclusively with estate grapes.

“Charmat can give excellent results and control quality, or it can be used to make industrial beverages to suit market trends,” says Paltrinieri. “However, longer fermentation times in the tank that last for three months, as opposed to three days, can yield more complex, aromatic wines.”

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Paltrinieri notes a number of producers have gone back to the traditional practice of carrying out the second fermentation in the bottle with no degorging, leaving a fine sediment at the bottom. This method produces dry, terroir-driven wines with personality.

These evolved methods have led to a renaissance for Lambrusco di Sorbara. However, the wine’s rebirth really began in the vineyard, says Paltrinieri, where “greatly decreasing yields has been fundamental.”

Anselmo Chiarli agrees. He’s the managing director of Chiarli 1860, the oldest winery in the region, and Cleto Chiarli, the family’s winery dedicated solely to Lambrusco made with estate grapes. While lowered yields and optimal vineyard sites have aided the resurgence, Chiarli says that identification of the best clones has further enhanced quality.

“In the 1980s, we began recovering the old clones in our vineyards,” he says. “After massal selection [where grafts are taken from existing old vines to propagate plantings, as opposed to planting new nursery vines], we planted the offspring of the best-performing vines.” These old clones give the wines more depth of flavor, which results in greater authenticity.

The best Lambrusco di Sorbara examples are dry, with enticing scents of violet and crisp red-berry flavors. They’re silky, lightly sparkling and offer racy acidity. These are the most food-friendly Lambruscos, pairing beautifully with the region’s hearty cuisine, like cured meat or tortellini in brodo.

Wine Enthusiast recommends:

Medici Ermete 2022 Phermento Lambrusco Rifermentato in Bottiglia Lambrusco di Sorbara (Lambrusco di Sorbara)

A wine of history and pure joy, this watermelon Jolly Rancher-colored sparkling wine bursts out of the glass with aromas of wild strawberry, green herbs and candied rose petals. The bracing palate pops with electric acidity, tart lime, watermelon and saline. A bottle for all occasions. Editor’s Choice. 94 Points — Jeff Porter

$29 Wine 365

Cleto Chiarli 2022 Lambrusco Del Fondatore Lambrusco di Sorbara (Lambrusco di Sorbara)

This zippy sparkler opens with aromas of freshly squeezed cherries that envelop the senses as floral and herbal aromas slowly come into frame providing contrast to the bright fruit notes. Plump mixed berries jump on the palate as the creamy texture and soft bubbles transport the palate to the next level. 93 Points — J.P.

$23 Wine.com

Paltrinieri 2022 Leclisse Lambrusco (Lambrusco di Sorbara)

Delicate aromas of fresh flowers, cherries, McIntosh apple and green herbs open the nose of this elegant sparkling wine. Tart strawberries, cranberries and a hint of vanilla crème give shape to the palate as the gentle perlage acts like silk on the palate. 93 Points— J.P.

$25 Wine.com

Fiorini 2021 Vignadelpadre a Giuseppe Lambrusco di Sorbara (Lambrusco di Sorbara)

This wine opens with aromas of cut strawberries macerated with mint in their own juice alongside wild rose and subtle yeastiness. Sour Bing cherries and fresh thyme lead the way on the palate of this complex and beautiful wine, finishing with zippy acidity and near-perfect bubbles. 94 Points — J.P.

$ Varies Blackwell’s Wine & Spirits

Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro

The polar opposite of Lambrusco di Sorbara, wines made with the thick-skinned, late-ripening Lambrusco Grasparossa grape are darkly hued and have more tannic structure than other Lambruscos. And while Lambrusco di Sorbara excels in sandy soils on the plains, Lambrusco Grasparossa needs clay and silt for optimum results.

Grasparossa’s spiritual home is south of Modena, around the town of Castelvetro. Among the earthiest and fullest-bodied of all Lambruscos, Grasparossa di Castelvetro is the flagship wine for this variety.

“Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro is actually more like a red wine, thanks to its body, tannins and structure,” says Fabio Altariva, who runs his family’s Fattoria Moretto winery, in the heart of the Castelvetro hills, along with his brother, Fausto.

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While other Lambrusco varieties grow in the plains, Lambrusco Grasparossa is the only one that does well on the hillsides, Altariva says, at around 650 feet above sea level, where it’s always breezy. Top producers keep yields far below the maximum allowed, and many of these leaders focus on specific vineyard sites for best results.

In the past, Grasparossa bottlings tended to be more rustic, but most producers now seek to make increasingly elegant wines. In part, this is done by careful management of skin maceration to ensure they only extract the right amount of tannins. The best Lambrusco di Grasparossa Castelvetro bottlings are dry, dark and frothy. They offer dark berry and black-skinned fruit flavors, as well as a pleasantly bitter finish.

Wine Enthusiast recommends:

Tenuta Pederzana 2021 Lambrusco (Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro)

This Lambrusco opens with aromas of spiced-plum compote, fresh black fig and pepper. The bold and dense palate is loaded with black-hued fruit flavors melding seamlessly with savory herbs, spices and earthy notes finishing with a round and soft perlage. 91 Points — J.P.

$20 Bottle Shop

Sebastian Van de Sype 2021 Ancestrale Grasparossa di Castelvetro (Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro)

Sebastian Van de Sype is a former aerospace engineer who worked on Formula 1 race cars, but now he is taking his genius to the fields to produce pure, earnest and truthful Lambrusco from 100% Grasparossa. Fresh aromas of plum, blackberry and cassis rise out of the glass with subtle hints of dried leaf and wildflowers in the background, which move to the front as the wine opens. It’s energetic on the palate with a spark of acidity that keeps the palate fresh. Fine bubbles tingle the palate, and the core of fruit continues to develop with each sip. This is an estate to follow. Editor’s Choice. 95 Points — J.P.

$34 Terroirizer

Lambrusco Salamino

The most planted of the Lambrusco varieties, Lambrusco Salamino is often blended with other grapes to add its generous color and marked acidity without imparting strong flavors. It’s also commonly used to make off-dry and sweet wines.

Lambrusco Salamino is planted extensively in the province of Modena, especially in the northern part of the province around the Santa Croce hamlet near Carpi, where it originated.

While there’s a denomination devoted to the variety, Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce, most producers in the Modena province blend the grape into other Lambrusco bottlings.

Lambrusco Salamino also plays an important role in Lambrusco di Sorbara production. The latter has a flowering anomaly that results in sterile pollen, so growers plant Salamino alongside to act as a pollinator. Up to 40% of Lambrusco Salamino can be used in Lambrusco di Sorbara wines. Lambrusco Salamino is widely cultivated in the Reggio Emilia province, where it’s enjoyed excellent results.

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While the Santa Croce growing zone has fertile soils similar to those of Lambrusco di Sorbara, the plains near the foothills of Reggio Emilia contain more clay and rock.

“Thanks to the soils, Lambrusco Salamino in this area produces richer wines, with more structure and tannins when compared to other areas,” says Alberto Medici, co-owner and part of the fourth generation of his family’s Medici Ermete winery in Reggio Emilia.

Fragrant and fresh, dry wines made with Lambrusco Salamino boast intense red-berry sensations and are well-balanced. They’re somewhere between Lambrusco di Sorbara and Grasparossa bottlings.

“Lambrusco Salamino has vibrant acidity, but still lower acidity than Lambrusco di Sorbara,” says Medici. “And while they are well structured, Lambrusco Salamino wines aren’t as tannic as Grasparossa offerings.”

Wine Enthusiast recommends:

Vigneto Saetti 2021 Rosso Viola Lambrusco Salamino (Lambrusco dell’Emilia)

100% Salamino grown organically in the hills north of Modena this wine is the personification of the Saetti family’s dedication to their craft. Aromas of blackberries, mulberries and tamarind share the glass with violets, dried roses and wild herbs. The palate is lush and vibrant at the same time with rich ripe black-hued fruits balanced with crunchy acidity. The wine has a long and refined finish highlighted by the well-crafted perlage. 95 Points — J.P.

$ Varies The Grapevine

Lini 910 NV Labrusca Bianco Lambrusco Salamino (Lambrusco dell’Emilia)

Enticing aromas of Bosc pear, chamomile, singed orange rind and lemon oil waft from the glass. It’s vibrant and crisp on the palate with tart nectarine, pressed yellow flowers, gentian and bitter almond on the finish. Best Buy. 93 Points — J.P.

$18 Lincoln Fine Wines

Lambrusco di Modena and Lambrusco Reggiano

Besides the three DOC/DOP (Denomina­zione di Origine Controllata/Protetta) dedicated to Lambrusco (Lambrusco di Sorbara, Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro and Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce), the small province of Modena also makes Lambrusco di Modena.
Part of the larger Modena denomination that covers the entire province, this designation is more flexible than the three flagship denominations. Lambrusco di Modena can be made with a blend of numerous Lambrusco varieties, and the maximum permitted grape yields are higher.

Bordering with the Modena province, the province of Reggio Emilia also has a long Lambrusco tradition. Reggio Emilia doesn’t have any Lambrusco-only appellations, so Lambrusco plantings are destined to produce Lambrusco Reggiano, which falls under the larger Reggiano umbrella DOP. The appellation covers the entire province, and wines can be made from a blend of Lambrusco varieties.

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When compared to Lambrusco di Modena, maximum grape yields are lower. Even though more Lambrusco is planted in the Modena area, production of Reggiano Lambrusco is larger than Lambrusco di Modena. That’s because most Lambrusco plantings in the Modena province end up in the more celebrated Lambrusco-specific denominations.

Given the large growing areas and more flexible grape blends, wine styles and quality vary tremendously, but there are some very good wines at great price points made under both designations.

Wine Enthusiast recommends:

Podere Giardino 2021 Suoli Cataldi Sparkling (Lambrusco Reggiano)

This is a true classic. Bold and upfront out of the glass with Bing cherry aromas combined with savory herbs, anise and turned earth. The palate pops with more tart fruit notes of Damson plums, pomegranates and sour cherries combined with fresh and dried flowers and a subtle hint of game. It finishes with gentle bubbles and zingy acidity just screaming for a slice of cured meat or aged cheese. Best Buy. 93 Points — J.P.

$20 Somm Cellars

Cleto Chiarli NV Centenario Lambrusco (Lambrusco di Modena)

Exotic spices, dried violets and sweet plum aromas dominate on this juicy and fresh Lambrusco. The lush palate is driven by notes of blackberry, fig and cherry jam all interwined with sweet and savory spices finishing with a pop of acidity. 88 Points — J.P.

$20 Plum Market

Medici Ermete NV Phermento Frizzante Secco Lambrusco (Lambrusco di Modena)

Heady aromas of blueberry and wild cherry lead the nose on this delicious, lively wine. On the lightly sparkling palate, hints of botanical herb and white pepper accent raspberry compote, blueberry and lemon zest before a crisp dry finish. 91 Points — Kerin O’Keefe

$ Varies Mount Carmel Wines

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The Next Generation

The new generation of Italian winemakers and wine drinkers was out in full force, who breathed fresh air and a palpable electricity into an already lively scene. Gabriella Favara, a prime representative of this youthful wave as she gears up to take the reins of her family’s historic Sicilian winery Donnafugata, was struck by the fair’s youthful energy.

“I think this edition of Vinitaly had even more young protagonists than previous versions, in terms of new generations who are now moving up to lead their family businesses, but also in terms of young wine lovers who are just beginning to approach our world,” she says. “And this combination is really magic: It gives us an opportunity to work in sync, continuously streamlining communication and allows us to tell the story of the products of our unique territories and provoke curiosity.”

That storytelling is critical, Favara stresses, because it means that “young people are able to have a 360-degree experience—from the vineyard to the glass.”

International Appeal

The breadth and depth of representation at Vinitaly also confirmed a suspicion many people in the industry have voiced: Vinitaly is becoming the world’s singularly major international wine event. The shift comes as the once-dominant ProWein enters a waning phase, and the relatively new Wine Paris remains in a building phase. Vinitaly, meanwhile, has established itself as the annual point of reference and cornerstone of international wine commerce and exchange, with 3,700 foreign operators participating this year.

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“For us, [Vinitaly] was rich with opportunities and encounters, especially with international buyers—a fantastic event, thanks also to a refresh we gave to our Lazio pavilion,” says Giovanna Trisorio of Cincinnato, a cooperative of wineries in the Lazio region. “It was important to have this positive feedback after a not particularly exciting ProWein and with other fairs in general having low attendance this year.” Indeed, excitement is already high for next year’s iteration of Vinitaly, which will be held from April 6 to 9 in 2025, again in Verona. It’s not only because of the wine.

“I think that Vinitaly is more than just a fair: it’s a sort of turbine for work, friendship and exchanges in a magical city,” Trisorio emphasizes.

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Contesa Cerasuolo at Essenza Cucina di Mare 

The winemaker Contesa’s Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo is a light-bodied red made from the same Montepulciano d’Abruzzo everyone already knows and loves. With the sweet acidic intensity of a rosé and the structure of a red, it tastes like cherries and sunshine trapped in a glass. Cerasuolo is poised to become the next big thing—and it’s delightfully crushable. But inexplicably, this gorgeous, deep rose-colored expression of the local grape has often been overlooked. Thankfully, you can enjoy a glass of it at Essenza Cucina di Mare, a restaurant on the Costa dei Trabocchi (a magnificent stretch of Abruzzese coastline dotted with preindustrial fishing piers) where the De Sanctis family will spoil you with their hospitality.  

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Valle Martello Cococciola at Ristorante il Saraceno 

On a peninsula where well over 300 grapes are vinified and brought to market it’s still common to find a true beauty that hasn’t yet been appreciated. One of them is Cococciola, an indigenous white varietal that has so few admirers that even in Abruzzo it’s tough to find someone who has heard of it. It actually might have disappeared if not for the hard work of producers like Katia Masci at Valle Martello, in the Colle Teatine region. Floral and tropical-fruit forward, fun but not frivolous, Cococciola is worth seeking out not just because it’s rare but, more importantly, because it’s delicious. Pair it with the local crudi at the consistently excellent Ristorante il Saraceno, tucked right into the middle of the minuscule Villamagna DOC.  

Piana Marina at Fermenta Pizzeria 

Trebbiano d’Abruzzo is the girl with oversized glasses and a bad haircut who turns out to be a stunner when she finally lets her best friend give her a makeover. Long relegated to sidekick position, with a few exceptions, Abruzzo’s native Trebbiano is in fact a main character—a rich, full savory white grape that can’t be expected to blend in. Luckily plenty of producers have taken notice by now. Drinking Torre Zambra’s strikingly salty but luxe and round Piana Marina could cure most ills. Pair it with a pie at Fermenta Pizzeria to really see it shine. This Chieti restaurant features a dizzying variety of cooking techniques and spectacularly inventive, quality ingredients. The combinations are unexpected and the pizza with slow-cooked lamb, Fara Filiorium Petri onions and Avezzano potatoes is a total knock-out.  

Genziana at Ceramiche Liberati 

Italian digestifs tend to be a place where even adventurous drinkers get cold feet. Genziana, an ultra bitter after-dinner drink made with gentian root, isn’t here to make friends or meet you halfway. It does, however, promise to be there in sickness and in health (it’s one of the best natural digestives on the planet) and to help you burn a heavy meal. It has an herbaceous, mountain-fresh flavor and plenty of alcohol. Any Abruzzese bar or restaurant worth its salt will have a version, but to find the exhilarating, palate-shredding gentian locals love, your best bet is a homemade version. At Ceramiche Liberati you can find handcrafted vessels that are perfect for digestifs. (If you’re lucky, owner Giuseppe Liberati might be around to offer you a sip of his private stock.) 

Ratafià at Don Gennaro 1918 

While Genziana’s bitter root-base delivers a tough love, its more palatable cousin Ratafià offers a warm embrace, joyous and without judgment. The sweet, just slightly medicinal cherry digestif is made from Montepulciano d’Abruzzo red wine and recalls the notes of Cerasuolo. Lauded producer Praesidium makes a particularly sophisticated Ratafià, while the tiny production of artisanal spirits from Scuppoz executes tradition with an edge that has gained a cult following. Don Gennaro 1918—a magnificent wine bar with an impressive selection of local and international bottles—offers a variety of this beloved classic. Let the bartenders guide you and you can’t go wrong. 

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Although the grape’s wild popularity didn’t always come with exceptional quality, it’s been a different story in recent years. Even better news, the region’s winemakers aren’t resting on their laurels (or their grapes, in this case). Montepulciano d’Abruzzo’s success has lured an influx of investment and interest in the region, which many producers have used as an opportunity to craft ever more complex wines that showcase the local terroir’s potential. 

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Below, find a guide to some of the best bottles coming into the U.S. market right now. These wines hit a variety of notes, spanning from ethereal, briny and floral to dense, earthy and brooding. 

Ciavolich 2017 Divus Montepulciano (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo)

There is a sense of possibility in Chiara Ciavolich’s wines and that’s not by chance. In both the vineyard and the cellar, she has proven herself a wizard—squeezing all that’s possible out of the indigenous grapes of her region. The Divus—ostensibly her simplest, cleanest expression—confirms just how acrobatic and long-lived Montepulciano can be. 

A heady mix of cherry jam, blackberry, peppery herbs, petrichor and mentholated tobacco show excellent depth and intensity on the nose. Aged in old barrels and barriques, this has a sultry texture on the palate, with plenty of fresh acidity and polished tannins lending support. There’s pureness to the fruit flavors that makes this utterly enjoyable. Enjoy now–2028. Editor’s Choice. 92 Points — Alexander Peartree

$22.10 Finding Wine

Contesa 2020 Montepulciano (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo)

While no one should ever complain about a great wine and pizza pairing, the searing acid that Abruzzo’s Montepulciano can achieve alongside its tangy, iron-rich soil notes means that it can stand up to a lot more than a mere slice, as Contesa adeptly demonstrates in this ultimate best buy. 

This spicy red displays aromas of Sichuan peppercorn, blood orange peel and mentholated tobacco on the nose, with a solid core of black cherry and red plum. It’s polished and supple on the palate, with smooth tannins and pulsing acidity working in tandem to lend a firm webbing for the plump cherry and plum flavors to shine. Accents of orange peel and purple flowers lend levity, with a savory twang of granite on the close. 91 Points — A.P.

$20 Chateau Cellars

De Fermo 2016 L.A. Concrete Montepulciano (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo)

Stefano de Fermo has become a point of reference for the region thanks to his bright, crisp wines. Standouts include bottles aged in concrete. The drinkability of de Fermo’s wines matches the relaxed confidence of their maker and their liveliness reflects production on a property abuzz with biodiversity. 

Vibrant, vivid aromas of perfectly ripe dark cherry, blackberry and cranberry are covered in a delicate dusting of wet limestone and fresh herbs on the nose. The palate is all about texture, walking a tightrope between penetrating, juicy lushness and powdered, stony grip. Editor’s Choice. 92 points. — A.P.

$22.80 Saratoga Wine Exchange

Faraone 2016 Le Vigne di Faraone Montepulciano (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo)

We hate to repeat gossip, but the rumors that Faraone is the next Emidio Pepe—one of the finest makers in the region—might just be confirmed by a sip of the Vigna di Faraone Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. This bottle captures what makes all Abruzzese wine so special. It is as satisfying as it is intriguing.  

This well-balanced Montepulciano delivers ripe cherry and blackberry aromas perked up by crushed black pepper, menthol and cigar box accents. The pure berry flavors follow to the medium-bodied palate, where chopped mint lends an invigorating fresh lift to it all. Plush, juicy fruit and velvety tannins yield quite an enjoyable outcome. 90 Points — A.P.

$21.85 Champion Wine Cellars

Idi di Marzo 2020 Amarne Family Selection Montepulciano (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo)

Famiglia de Cerchio plays with Abruzzo’s favorite grape in a few forms, but none of them seem to convince people quite as quickly and effectively as the Idi di Marzo Amarne. A classic but edgy expression, figuratively speaking, this bottle walks in wearing a Zegna suit and a Marinella tie. Then you notice a concert t-shirt peeking out and an arm full of tattoos under the jacket. Bring this to a party and get ready to become the life of it. 

The nose is alluringly floral and earthy, with notes of wild cherries, plums, wild fennel and fresh-tilled soil. On the palate, that interplay between fruit and earth continues, within a framework provided by polished but dense tannins and lively acid. Best Buy. 90 Points. — Danielle Callegari

$21.99 Foremost Liquors

Torre dei Beati 2017 Mazzamurello Montepulciano (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo)

The cheekiness in the wines of Torre dei Beati feels purely Abruzzese. The bottles are thoughtful and careful reflections of their terroir and reflect a fun-loving spirit. Fausto Albanesi’s Mazzamurello is particularly adept at capturing this sensibility. It has a quiet, rustic depth set against a bouncy breeziness—something that makes this wine, which is made from very old vines, feel like a brand-new delight. 

This rich red delivers dense aromas of brandy-soaked berries, tobacco, cocoa powder and clove. It’s plush in texture, with succulent berry flavors that envelop the palate. Savory and sweet spices weave throughout, making for a cohesive whole. Firm tannins give power, with fresh acidity riding closely behind. Drink 2023–2030. Cellar Selection. 93 Points — A.P.

$49.95 Woodland Hills Wine Company

The post The Best Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Wines to Drink Right Now appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

Crafted from local Sicilian grape varietals, Marsala reflects the sunny, Mediterranean landscape it calls home. “It’s exposed to heat, in the elements, and that’s what makes it great,” explains Alisha Blackwell-Calvert, Beverage Director at Madrina in St. Louis. “It gives it its delicious nutty, toasted flavors.”

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Like its fortified wine cousins Port, Sherry and Madeira, Marsala is made by adding a distilled grape spirit to a base wine, which bolsters its alcohol content. Marsala can range in sweetness, based on the sugar that remains after fortification, from secco (dry) to semisecco (semi-dry) to dolce (sweet).

Though Marsala is often written off as a cheap cooking wine, quality versions have enjoyed a resurgence in the past decade or so. Austin Bridges, Wine Director at Nostrana in Portland, Oregon, credits this popularity to the beverage’s “nuttiness, richness, sweetness, savory, caramel and acidity”—in other words, a symphony of flavors.

Cooking with Marsala

“Man, oh, man—Marsala is an incredible addition to sauces that need a nutty, caramelized flavor,” says food and wine journalist Henna Bakshi. It’s that complex, rich element that has made Marsala a star in classic Italian and Italian-American dishes like chicken Marsala, veal Marsala and tiramisu.

Its culinary possibilities do not stop there. “Mushrooms and marsala are a match made in culinary heaven,” says Bridges. “They soak up the wine’s essence while preserving their inherent, delightful earthy taste, even allowing for the sugars on their edges to caramelize beautifully.” Sauteed mushrooms and mushroom pasta transcend to a whole other level with a swig of the fortified elixir.

Bridges says Marsala also excels in dishes featuring caramelized onions, meals that include toasted nuts and as a glaze for sweet root vegetables. “It’s an exceptional choice for deglazing a pan, swiftly reducing while freeing up all that delicious food stuck to the bottom, making it an indispensable component of a pan sauce,” he explains. Plus, a little can go a long way.

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Though most cooks tend to use the Italian fortified wine in Italian dishes, Marsala can elevate a wide variety of flavor profiles and cuisines. “I’m from New Delhi, India, where tamarind is used to add a sweet and sour, tongue-popping punch to dishes like chole (chickpea curry) and sambar (a South Indian lentil stew),” she says. Marsala can similarly be used in East Asian curries and other boldly flavored dishes that call for tangy flavors.

Bakshi also likes to “a splash to sautéing onions, ginger and garlic, and cook it off,” she adds. “It contributes a rich, fruit and nut flavor, with layers of burnt sugar, tamarind and notes of tobacco leaf in higher-quality Marsala.”

While Marsala’s depth and intricate flavors can enhance a wide range of dishes, this diversity also means that there are an equally large number of ingredients that can be substituted for the fortified wine when you don’t have any on hand.

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Substitutes for Marsala Wine

If Marsala is not close at hand, don’t worry. When selecting a substitute, Bridges begins “by taking stock of what’s already in my kitchen,” he says. “The question isn’t just what I have, but how I can creatively use it—or a combination of things—to enhance my dish.”

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This can include “remnants of wine from a previous evening, a half-finished bottle of sake from dining out, various vermouths teetering on the edge of oxidation, an older bottle of vinegar, an assortment of sugars or even a bottle of rum that’s been sitting around,” says Bridges. “If you look at the most cherished humble dishes from cultures around the globe, you’ll notice a common theme: the utilization of available resources, ensuring nothing goes to waste.”

That said, some substitutes for Marsala work better in certain dishes than others. Check out the ideal swaps below.

Chicken Marsala

The Italian-American classic of pan-fried chicken cutlets and mushrooms in a rich Marsala wine sauce is just as good—and the difference is barely noticeable—with Oloroso Sherry, which Blackwell-Calvert chooses for its “nuttiness and hint of sweetness, without being cloying.”

Mushroom Marsala Ragu

“Since this is a red sauce, go for a heavy red wine or ruby Port as a substitute,” Bridges advises. To emulate the savory, umami notes in Marsala, he adds, “Worcestershire sauce is also a great swap.”

Mushroom Ravioli with Marsala

Sercial, the driest style of Madeira wine, is Blackwell-Calvert’s pick. “It’s perfectly savory, with high acidity to complement the earthiness of the mushrooms,” she says.

Pork Medallions with Marsala Sauce

Bakshi would cook these with Rancio, an often-overlooked style of fortified wine for which producers intentionally expose wine to air or dry heat during aging for a saline, nutty edge—which plays deliciously with delicate pork.

Gorgonzola and Marsala Steak

Port and gorgonzola are a match made in heaven. Blackwell-Calvert would reach for a 10-year tawny Port and turn it into a reduction. “Its beautiful, candied fruit, raisin flavors and notes of toffee and caramel make it perfect,” she explains.

Tiramisu with Marsala

The Italian dessert tiramisu is often made by soaking delicate ladyfinger sponges in a mixture of espresso, chocolate, rum, vanilla and Marsala. Bakshi chooses to sub Marsala for more strong coffee—a quintessential component of the dessert—plus a dash of rum for a boozy backbone.

The post The Best Marsala Wine Substitutes for Cooking appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

As heir apparent, Boffa had been groomed to go into wine and Pio taught her to love every inch of the winery ferociously. “My father made me fall in love with wine,” she says. “He used to bring me to the vineyards when I was a little girl and tell me stories about Nebbiolo, our terroir, our microclimate and our soils.”

But 23 is an incredibly early age to step into the ruling role of such a storied winery. Her family has long been hailed for its structured, elegant single-vineyard bottlings of Barolos. The pressure she faced—and continues to face—is intense. “The most challenging aspect is being a very young woman at the helm of a very historical and prestigious brand operating in a traditionally ‘old-man’ business,” says Boffa. “I’m presenting our wines and older vintages to our buyers, and almost all were produced before I was born.”

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Despite the unfathomable loss of her father, Boffa has been striding forward with confidence. Her love of wine, respect for Barolo’s heritage and sense of duty to her family and its legacy have been her fuel.

While still far from the norm, Boffa is not the only female heir to an Italian wine dynasty to find herself carving out a crucial role for herself in what has been for centuries a male-dominated industry. A growing slew of young women have been ushering in a new era of Italian wine, from Abruzzo and Barolo to Chianti and beyond.

Navigating Traditional Gender Roles

Fourth-generation winemaker Marzia Varvaglione grew up in a small house beside the production facilities of Varvaglione 1921, the over 100-year-old winery her family runs in Puglia. Her early memories include playing with employees, ducking behind mountains of grape skins in games of hide and seek.

Growing up in wine, she noticed that women’s roles were limited. “For so long, people thought you couldn’t produce wine if you were a woman,” says Varvaglione. “You would work in administration or marketing.” Even fewer women were allowed to take over for older generations when it came time to pass the torch.

Yet, as Italy’s wine scene has been slowly shrugging off its reputation for machismo, women winemakers are becoming less of a novelty. “My generation? We do everything,” says Varvaglione. “We drive the tractor, we work in the vineyards and women work both in production and sales.”

There’s also Angela Fronti in Radda-in-Chianti, who took back her family’s vineyards to launch her own label Istine, and Alessia Antinori, also in Chianti, who became the first woman to lead her family’s winery after 25 generations. Even international women are trickling in to take over historic properties.

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Meanwhile, legendary Abruzzese producer Emidio Pepe’s line of succession is entirely female. His two daughters are the owners and proprietors of the estate. Chiara de Iulis Pepe, his granddaughter, handles winemaking.

When she stepped into the winemaking role in 2020, Pepe found it “incredibly difficult to lead my grandfather’s team as a young girl,” she says. But it wasn’t just her age and gender that posed problems. The older workers had set ways of doing things and were resistant to the much-needed changes that had to take place to ensure the future of the winery and vineyards.

Pepe, fortunately, is no longer fighting against the status quo. To give her space to define her winemaking, her elders gave freedom to build a new team. Now, there are six people in the vineyards. She’s the oldest and all her colleagues share similar goals. “No one questions themselves twice when they have to do something by hand,” she says. “They know that turning on the tractor for even one pass is unnecessary.”

New Hurdles Heat Up

Alongside age and gender, this up-and-coming crop of female winemakers are reckoning with changing climates and shifting drinking habits—far larger foes than what past generations were up against.

Pepe feels lucky to have inherited healthy soil; her grandfather never employed synthetic chemicals or fertilizer. But when she took over the winemaking duties in 2020, she felt the obligation to extend his sustainable environmental practices further.

She believes her relatively young age is an asset rather than a liability when it comes to navigating the climate crisis. “I’m 30—when I was born, global warming was very present,” Pepe says. “We make wine, and we try to make the best possible wine we can, but I feel like as agriculturalists, we have this massive responsibility to ensure our soils are healthy and capturing as much C02 as possible.”

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Whereas many of her older neighbors find it “messy” to allow the ground between the vines to grow wild, Pepe has no compunction about doing so. The natural flora and fauna help improve the microbiology of the soil, promote pollinators and leave the ground beneath her soft and aerated. She prunes the vines by hand—a laborious but essential part of ensuring their health—well into the future. “I would like to see myself making wines for many decades,” she says.

The conversation around climate change is ever-present among these young industry pros. The Italian Young Winemakers Association, of which Varvaglione is president, are always looking for ways to lessen their impact. They discuss topics like carbon sequestration, which sustainable corks are best and new climate-friendly clones. Not only do they share their findings with one another, but they also regularly talk about how to share this information with the older generation, which is less concerned about shifting climates.

Jumping the Generational Gap

Many young winemakers struggle to reckon with their forebears’ way of thinking, and a growing subset has been striking out with projects of their own. Still, others are finding ways to effect change from within.

Varvaglione’s elders have been open to newer ideas. In 2012, she and her siblings convinced her parents to release 12 e mezzo, a line of low-alcohol, sustainably made wines—years before the low-alcohol movement rose to prominence. The project allows them to utilize younger vineyards and focus on the region’s native grape varieties, mainly Primitivo and Negroamaro.

“Our parents weren’t sure about these wines when we started,” says Varvaglione. “They trust us now. They’re ready to explore new projects.”

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Just as Varvaglione has pushed her family’s winery into the present day with varying styles and varietals, Boffa has been able to do the same. Her father bet on Chardonnay 40 years ago, when it was wildly out of fashion in Piedmont; now Boffa is gearing up to release a Timorasso, a native white grape that nearly went extinct decades ago. She’s also expanding upon what already works, continuing to produce Pio Cesare’s famously elegant Nebbiolo. However, she’s widening its geographical footprint with help from cousin Cesare Benvenuto, planting vines in the higher altitude, cooler climate growing regions of Alta Langa and Colli Tortonesi.

“It’s very important for me to never consider tradition as a cage or a burden, but always as a starting point or a sliding door,” says Boffa, who credits this history for the great bottles the winery still produces today. “However, from this very solid heritage… we can improve and make greater new beginnings.”

The post A New Generation of Women Is Taking Over Historic Italian Wineries appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

To best understand the region, Garella starts at the beginning: “Alto Piemonte was the site of a super-volcano, 25 miles in diameter, that erupted 300 million years ago just as the Alps were forming—creating a geological mishmash, making it a Disneyland for geologists.”

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Whereas Etna and Vesuvius are both active, the ancient soils of the Alto Piemonte are different. Garella continues, “On Etna or Campania you can still smell the volcano. You can feel the volcanic expression, but in Alto Piemonte the volcanic sensation is more a combination of saltiness, acidity and tannin shown distinctly in the wines of Boca, Bramaterra and Gattinara. The older soils grow wines with a darker fruit expression and more tannins, while those with mainly marine sediment produce wines that are lighter with a fruity nose, detailing how specific the terroir is.”

Today, Garella is a partner in two wineries, Le Pianelle and Colombera & Garella, and a consultant for 18 other estates in the region, and he’s not even 40. His passion began at age 12 when his parents, who were not in the wine business, enlisted an 88-year-old named Giovanni “Giouan” Clerico, who had been tending vines and making wines for 70 years to give their son “something to do” after school. This generational odd couple quickly formed a rapport. As Garella recalls, “Giouan immediately taught me respect of place. He said I needed to respect every single vine and to understand that our weight in the world is small and to not waste time. Just work hard.” His experience with Giouan is his foundation. “He taught me how to do everything from cut the grass to vinify the wine in the most rustic and traditional of manners,” recalls Garella. Over the next five years Giouan and Cristano worked every season, with Cristano absorbing as much as he could. Sadly, in 2003 Giouan passed away at age 93, but Garella’s path was clear.

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Garella headed south to study winemaking at the Università di Torino at Alba and learned “how to make good wines, technically,” but he says that being in Barolo, just as it was becoming famous, showed him that life “is a cross of being a little lucky and every day trying to learn something new. I was luckier than others, as I understand what I wanted to do and the hint of Alto Piemonte was there like a seed in front of me.” He headed back home and began work at the historic Tenute Sella. After a few years, he learned that consulting would give him the freedom to explore the complexity that was under his feet. “As you walk a vineyard it may have 100% volcanic soil, then in 50 feet one that has 100% marine soils, then in another 50 feet a mix. This diversity is what makes our land great,” affirms Garella.

“Making wine, restoring vineyards, rebuilding a wine area, takes generations,” he warns. “Many people want to produce wine quickly and are focusing on just the labels instead of the real work.” But for those ready to work, Cristiano is there to welcome and help them. He believes the future of Alto Piemonte is to “focus the appellations on Nebbiolo so it would be easier to express the differences of the soils and single municipalities. I think it would be a big step for Alto Piemonte.”

This article originally appeared in the Winter 2024 issue of Wine Enthusiast magazine. Click here to subscribe today!

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The post Cristiano Garella Is on a Mission to Spread the Word of Alto Piemonte’s Volcanic History appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

The Inamas insist this will be the wine that finally puts Soave on the international fine-wine map. It was certainly exquisite. However, after considering it for a moment, I asked, “But does it taste like Soave?”

“What is even the tradition of fine wine in Soave?” replied Matteo, with a chuckle. “We are like cavemen here.”

Stefano chimed in: “Can Soave be a top white like Burgundy or German Riesling? We didn’t know before. We didn’t have anyone running the marathon in front of us. We didn’t have any reference. But now we know.”

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Even as someone who is not in the market for a $900 wine, this ambitious Soave felt noteworthy to me. For years, I’ve been extolling the virtues of Soave Classico from a handful of top producers—such as Inama, Prà, Pieropan, Suavia and Gini. And most of it, even the best, is an amazing value, generally $25 to $40. But within the wine world, Soave carries a special sort of baggage that’s hard to overcome.

“Soave is still suffering a little bit from its past,” says Alessandra Tessari of Suavia. “But Soave is not the thing that people used to know. All of us are working to give a new image.”

Changing Channels

Bad reputations are hard to shake. It’s an almost immutable law of wine writing that you must recount Soave’s shady past when you write about it. For most of the 21st century, that story has gone like this: Soave was super popular in the 1970s and early 1980s as a cheap, not-very-complex white wine made by cooperatives who favored quantity over quality and was heavily advertised on television. At one time, it was among the best-selling Italian wines in the U.S. But by the end of the 20th century, as Boomers gained more wine knowledge, they shunned their old favorite—moving on to Pinot Grigio or other whites. Soave languished.

However, as the contemporary wine writer always dutifully points out: There are still great wines from Soave, and you should try them! This has pretty much been the Soave pitch for about 20 or even 30 years. I, too, am guilty of this hackneyed narrative. More than a decade ago, I wrote an article for The Washington Post, “Soave: Haunted by Its Pitiful Past,” in which I implored readers to “start a new relationship with Soave, which over the past few years has become one of Italy’s most interesting whites.” In 2024, wine professionals keep telling the same story.

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The problem with this narrative is that no one under the age of 50 remembers the Soave craze of the 1970s. And many of us who do were only children at the time. I certainly remember Soave Bolla TV commercials (much like I remember those “Riunite on Ice” spots from the golden age of wine ads on TV). I would have seen them when our babysitter let us stay up late to watch Love Boat or Fantasy Island. This was the same era when Orson Welles hawked Paul Masson (“We will sell no wine before its time”) and Blue Nun was sold as “the wine that’s correct with any dish.” Which is to say that this is ancient history. It would be just as relevant to reference Pliny the Elder’s (who died in the year 79 A.D.) opinion on the wines of Soave. Comparing good Soave to this bad Soave of old means nothing to a younger generation.

So, I propose we stop talking about Soave’s past. There’s no need to talk about the poor Soave of yore, since there’s plenty of middling, mass-produced Soave in the present. Almost half of the wine in the Soave DOC, for instance, is made by one massive cooperative with over 2,000 members. We need to stop talking generally about Soave in any macro sense and instead focus on the micro.

The New Crus

For starters, let’s focus on the Soave Classico subzone, the hilly heart of the appellation, around the towns of Soave and Monteforte d’Alpone. Soave Classico was first delineated in 1927 and vines have been planted there since the days of Pliny the Elder. Here, the soils are mostly volcanic, from basaltic lava to volcanic tuff to the so-called orizzonti rossi.

“We all talk about volcanic soil, but we don’t have just one type of volcanic soil,” says Claudio Gini, 14th generation of the Gini family making wine in Soave Classico. “There’s black and gray lava, basalt with iron that’s reddish, then what we have in La Frosca there’s yellow, with basalt mixed with sulfur.” In the alluvial plains of the wider Soave appellation, you don’t find this diversity of volcanic soil.

But the only way to tell such a story of terroir is the ability to name specifics on the label. Which is why the decision by the Consorzio Tutela Vini Soave in 2019 to establish 33 distinct zones, or Unità Geografica Aggiuntive (UGA), is so important. Finally, Soave producers can put meaningful local place names on the label. Soave, at long last, has something like a cru system. The hope is that consumers will become familiar with vineyard sites such as Foscarino, Carbonare, La Frosca, Monte Grande and Rugate.

Bottles from producers like these can evolve into something noteworthy and extraordinary. “People have many prejudices against Soave,” says Graziano Prà. “It’s very difficult to convince people that Soave can age. But a good single-vineyard bottling has the potential to age 10 to 15 years.”

The UGA system makes official what winemakers in Soave have identified for years. Pieropan (perhaps Soave’s most well-known producer in the U.S.) first labeled two sites in the 1970s, Calvarino in 1971 and La Rocca in 1978. “My father was doing this 40 years before the UGAs,” says Andrea Pieropan. In fact, they were the first white wine crus in all of Italy.

Just the First Step

Still, the UGA system is not a magic cure-all for Soave’s reputation. With the influence of the big cooperatives, more than a third of Soave’s land is marked as official UGA. “There are too many,” says Prà. “When there are too many crus, it’s too difficult for people to understand.” In Soave Classico, he says, the best crus are linked to producers. “Winemakers make famous crus famous,” Prà says. “Barolo has 177 crus, but most people only know five of them.”

While Prà’s position is understandable, one positive effect of the UGAs is to expand the idea of where good Soave comes from. I was blown away by the wines made by Dal Cero outside the Classico zone in Ronca Monte Calvarina UGA, grown at 600 meters altitude (about 300 meters higher than Soave Classico). Here, the Garganega reaches a crisper level of acidity that even Garganega in Classico often doesn’t reach. “There was a feeling that the only good Soave wines were in Classico, but that’s not the case,” says Francesca Dal Cero. “We were looking to Pieropan and Inama, trying to copy them. But after some years, we realized these were not our wines. We wanted to make wines that expressed our own area.”

Some producers in the Classico zone don’t like that Chardonnay has been allowed into the blends, alongside the traditional grapes, Garganega and Trebbiano di Soave. “It’s not that I have something against Chardonnay,” says Pieropan. “But how can you compare a wine with Garganega and one with Chardonnay? How is Chardonnay an expression of the territory?” The use of Chardonnay dates to the inferiority complex that Soave has carried since the late 20th century. “There was an idea in the 1980s and 1990s that if you wanted to play in the premier league, you needed to have international grapes,” says Pieropan. “But now, it’s the opposite. My father wanted to play in the premier league with Garganega.”

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There has also been some grumbling about the lack of aging requirements with the new UGAs. For a producer like Gini, whose bottles can age for decades, releasing a wine four months after harvest is unacceptable. “We need to wait one year before releasing the wines,” he says. “When it’s young, all Soave is similar and it’s difficult to tell the quality. The single vineyard should not just be for marketing. It should mean something.”

Matteo Inama and I walked through his Foscarino vineyard on a sunny September day, tasting grapes from the vines. “You’re starting to get that orange taste,” he said. “Foscarino grapes always taste like blood orange just before they’re ready to pick.” In a newer part of the vineyard, the taste was more like green apple. As we moved into the 50-year-old pergola vines, I could taste mandarin and pineapple. “We’re two weeks from harvest, I think,” Matteo said. “You can feel it already, it’s already more complex.”

As we popped almost-ripe grapes into our mouths, Matteo told me, “If you want to achieve wines with tension and complexity, you need the grapes to get you there. If you don’t prune properly, if you don’t farm properly, you might be making a Soave Classico, but you’re not really making a cru.”

The secret to restoring Soave’s reputation, it turns out, is not a secret at all. Like everything else in life, it will be a matter of hard work, harvest by harvest. “The cru system is just a first step,” Matteo said. “All of us, together we will all have to make the area better.”

This article originally appeared in the Winter 2024 issue of Wine Enthusiast magazine. Click here to subscribe today!

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The post Soave’s Road to Producing Cru-Quality Wine appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

“The top wines of Lambrusco have such a verve, energy and happiness that you feel better after a few sips,” says Writer-at-Large Jeff Porter, Wine Enthusiast’s resident Italian wine reviewer. “The continued push towards better farming, drier wines and a revitalization of old-school winemaking techniques are creating wines that show complexity and drinkability in equal proportions.” 

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The moment’s best-of-class Lambrusco wines, featured below, have a freshness and character distinctive from older styles. Of course, there remains a wide variety in the category—Lambrusco can range from bone dry to treacly, slightly bubbly to full-on fizzy, bright white to inky purple. This fact alone has helped to diversify and uplift Lambrusco’s one-dimensional reputation. But the category’s ascension is arguably tied to the rise of funky sparklers, itself a trend linked with the popularity of pét-nats. None of this, however, would be possible without producers focused on quality. 

“Historic families such as Lini [of Lini 910] and Medici [of Medici Ermete] have not rested on their laurels and continue to push and innovate, while smaller farmers such as Vigneto Saetti and newcomer Sebastian Van de Sype look to the past to move forward with integrated farms and regenerative agriculture,” says Porter. All of this and more bodes well for the future of the category. “Lambrusco is the cutting edge of Italian wine.” 

Cleto Chiarli 2022 Vecchia Modena Premium Lambrusco di Sorbara (Lambrusco di Sorbara)

Wild strawberry, sour cherry, orange zest and fresh thyme aromas open the nose of this fresh and vibrant sparkler. The zingy palate pops with crushed raspberries, roses and a hint of game finishing with electric acidity that keeps the palate fresh and vitalized. Best Buy. 91 Points  — Jeff Porter

$ Varies Wine-Searcher

Cleto Chiarli 2022 Vigneto Cialdini Lambrusco Grasparossa (Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro)

Concentrated aromas of black plum, fig, blackberry, white pepper, allspice and tea leaf roll out of the glass. Gamy on the palate with a lush and generous offering of black cherry jam that is balanced by floral and savory elements bringing the wine to its earthy finish. Best Buy. 94 Points  — J.P.

$19 Wine.com

Paltrinieri 2021 Radice Lambrusco di Sorbara (Lambrusco di Sorbara)

When you get a wine like this, there is no turning back. A wine that is both pure, delicious and intriguing all at once is a rarity and is to be celebrated. At first, it is reserved. But once it wakes up, the wine shows a fresh mix of strawberry, boysenberry and pomegranate that gives way to intense floral notes, wild herbs and game. It’s energetic and vital with acidity that’s so crisp you will not realize you have just downed the bottle. Editor’s Choice. 96 Points  — J.P.

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Vigneto Saetti 2021 Rosso Viola Lambrusco Salamino (Lambrusco dell’Emilia)

100% Salamino grown organically in the hills north of Modena this wine is the personification of the Saetti family’s dedication to their craft. Aromas of blackberries, mulberries and tamarind share the glass with violets, dried roses and wild herbs. The palate is lush and vibrant at the same time with rich ripe black-hued fruits balanced with crunchy acidity. The wine has a long and refined finish highlighted by the well-crafted perlage. 95 Points  — J.P.

$21 Wine.com

Podere Giardino 2021 Suoli Cataldi Rosé Lambrusco Marani (Lambrusco Reggiano)

This perfumed Lambrusco is very pretty and engaging. Dried red currants, raspberries and sour cherries effortlessly lift from the glass. After a few swirls, they are joined by hints of flowers and aromas of the forest. The palate is electric with vibrant acidity showcasing sour cherry flavors with loads of dried flower petals giving the wine an irresistible quality … like you gotta have it. Best Buy. 94 Points  — J.P.

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Lini 910 NV Labrusca Bianco Lambrusco Salamino (Lambrusco dell’Emilia)

Enticing aromas of Bosc pear, chamomile, singed orange rind and lemon oil waft from the glass. It’s vibrant and crisp on the palate with tart nectarine, pressed yellow flowers, gentian and bitter almond on the finish. Best Buy. 93 Points  — J.P.

$17 Wine.com

Podere Giardino 2021 Suoli Cataldi Sparkling (Lambrusco Reggiano)

This is a true classic. Bold and upfront out of the glass with Bing cherry aromas combined with savory herbs, anise and turned earth. The palate pops with more tart fruit notes of Damson plums, pomegranates and sour cherries combined with fresh and dried flowers and a subtle hint of game. It finishes with gentle bubbles and zingy acidity just screaming for a slice of cured meat or aged cheese. Best Buy. 93 Points  — J.P.

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Lini 910 NV Labrusca Rosso Sparkling (Lambrusco dell’Emilia)

The deepest color of purple you could imagine, this wine is loaded with aromas of blackberry pie, spiced plums, violet candy and bay leaf. Supertasty and requiring some restraint, the palate is like biting into the juiciest plum you can conjure yet is balanced with notes of dried leaves, wild herbs and roasted coffee, making this joyous and very drinkable wine more complex than you might think. Best Buy. 92 Points  — J.P.

$17 Wine.com

Fiorini 2021 Corte delgi Attimi Lambrusco di Sorbara (Lambrusco di Sorbara)

This Lambrusco di Sorbara explodes with aromas of a gigantic bouquet of fresh roses and an entire bushel of fresh cherries, each equally holding court on the nose. The palate continues the story of roses and cherries with a creamy texture finishing with the natural vibrance of the grape. 92 Points  — J.P.

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Fiorini 2019 Terre al Sole Lambrusco Grasparossa (Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro)

This 100% Grasparossa made via the Champagne method opens with a superpretty nose of wild roses, macerated cherries, black currants and fresh leafy herbs. It’s elegant on the palate, showing a balanced combination of sour plum and violets and finishing with a hint of graphite. Complex and nuanced, this wine will wow all the senses. 92 Points  — J.P.

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Sebastian Van de Sype 2020 Grasparossa di Castelvetro (Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro)

This beautiful deeply colored wine, made of 100% Grasparossa, shines with an even mix of fruit-forwardness and savoriness. Wild black raspberries and sour cherries merge with violets and savory herbs. The palate is well-balanced, with ample dark fruit flavors that are highlighted by subtle notes of turned earth and smoked game. The wine finishes with bright acidity and fine bubbles. 91 Points  — J.P.

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Cleto Chiarli 2021 Lambrusco del Fondatore Lambrusco di Sorbara (Lambrusco di Sorbara)

Candied cherries, strawberries, wild herbs and dried violets weave in and out of the glass with subtle hints of smoked game. The palate balances the savory quality of the wine with cherries jubilee, cranberry and dried rose finishing with a creamy texture and an elegant sparkle. Best Buy. 91 Points  — J.P.

$24 Wine.com

Lini 910 NV Lambrusca Riserva Sparkling (Lambrusco dell’Emilia)

A blend of 85% Lambrusco Salamino and 15% Ancellotta, this wine opens with plump and ripe blueberries and blackberries that fold into aromas of wildflowers and freshly picked herbs. The palate is rich and lush with black plums, a touch of bitter chocolate and espresso with a twist of lemon giving a tart and vibrant pop of acidity on the finish, keeping the palate refreshed with each sip. 90 Points  — J.P.

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Fiorini 2021 Becco Rosso Lambrusco Grasparossa (Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro)

Black plums and blackberries doused in sweet and savory spices open the nose on this forward and lavish Lambrusco. Mouthfilling, the palate is loaded with black-hued fruits and notes of game, finishing with violet candy and the acidity needed to keep the fruits from being too forward. This wine is fun! 90 Points  — J.P.

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Medici Ermete 2022 Concerto Lambrusco Salamino (Lambrusco Reggiano)

This forward and plump Lambrusco is a bundle of blackberries, macerated black cherries and savory spices from the get-go. The aromas carry over to the palate with an addition of floral and game notes that give the wine more depth. Soft and fizzy, this wine can only bring smiles. 89 Points  — J.P.

$25 Wine.com

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All products featured here are independently selected by our team, which is comprised of experienced writers and wine tasters and overseen by editorial professionals at Wine Enthusiast headquarters. All ratings and reviews are performed blind in a controlled setting and reflect the parameters of our 100-point scale. Wine Enthusiast does not accept payment to conduct any product review, though we may earn a commission on purchases made through links on this site. Prices were accurate at the time of publication.

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