Among other things, the Wine Law Collective Decree will help designate single-vineyard sites as Premier Cru, or Erste Lage, and Grosse Lage, or Grand Cru. The inaugural wines labeled with the classifications will likely debut in 2025.

The initiative is big news, the culmination of 30 years of research and at least a decade of lobbying by the Austrian organization Österreichische Traditionsweingüter (ÖTW). It stands on the shoulders of previous attempts to establish classification systems outside of France: A few decades ago, Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter (VDP), a consortium of over 200 leading wine estates around Germany, established a classification system modeled after that of Burgundy, but it was not written into law.

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Similarly, the push for Austria’s new Wine Law Collective Decree goes back to 1995, explains Michael Moosbrugger, ÖTW National Chair and CEO of the renowned Schloss Gobelsburg winery. However, Austrian government stakeholders struggled with how to implement it. Things became clearer after the development of a legal classification system for Austria’s appellation system, the Districtus Austriae Controllatus (DAC), which applies to Austrian quality wines (Qualitätswein) typical of their regions.

The current DAC system, as established by the Wine Law Collective Decree, is also similar to that of Burgundy. It recognizes regional wines (Gebietswein), village wines (Ortswein) and single-vineyard wines (Riedenwein or Rieds), which now makes it possible to distinguish between Erste Lage and Grosse Lage amongst single-vineyard sites. The system, however, still leaves some control to local wine authorities.

“The decision whether to classify [single-vineyard sites, called rieds] … officially according to a standardized system is up to each wine-growing region, because the significance of single vineyards differs from region to region,” explains Chris Yorke, Austrian Wine Marketing Board (AWMB) CEO.

If adopted, the classification adheres to strict criteria. For instance, Erste Lage and Grosse Lage are only for DAC wines from classified vineyards. Furthermore, the wine-growing region from which the wine originates must have three established DAC levels. Finally, the highest classifications are exclusively for hand-harvested wines that have a lower maximum yield per hectare than the legal limit.

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If a region wants to classify its vineyards, its designated wine committee must apply to the National Wine Committee for each ried. The application must include facts such as the vineyards’ historical significance; homogeneity of the soils that dominate the rieds; the rieds’ climate and geographical orientations; as well as the volume and value of the wines produced. National and international wine ratings also factor into consideration. Finally, for a ried to receive the designation of Grosse Lage, it must have been an Erste Lage for at least five years. Requirements for using the term Grosse Lage have yet to be defined.

Though it’s still early days, supporters of the classification system say it potentially opens opportunities to small producers that might have otherwise been overlooked—despite what critics may say.

“Not everybody understands the importance of this system, some think the classification is an elitist behavior,” says Dorli Muhr of her eponymous estate in Carnuntum. “But it is definitely the opposite.”

The post Austria’s New Vineyard Classification System Is the First of Its Kind Outside France  appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

Vienna (Wien) is the world’s only capital that fosters significant viticulture within the city limits, and here taverns welcome any visitor looking for comfortable hospitality with a taste of local wine and cuisine. Nussberg, where several seasonal pop-up-style taverns are located, is one of the most picturesque spots in Vienna, a top vineyard overlooking the city. Opening times are often seasonal, so check ahead for travel convenience. Ausg’steckt means it’s open! While some taverns are less authentic than others, here are five unique spots that serve quality wine with traditional appeal.

Wieninger

Fritz Wieninger is perhaps the most wellknown vintner in Vienna, associated with the recent elevation of Wiener Gemischter Satz, a traditional wine often served in the taverns, a cofermented field blend that is entirely Viennese. Wieninger has two wine taverns, Heuriger Wieninger and Wieninger Buschenschank at Nussberg. Here guests can enjoy biodynamic wines and delicacies from local producers, including vegetarian options. Skin-fermented, naturally-made biodynamic wine from Hajszan Neumann, purchased by Wieninger in 2014, is also served here.

Weingut Walter Wien

For visitors who want to eat and drink in the vineyards, Weingut Walter offers an idyllic atmosphere. The effect embodies a sense of charming conviviality that the best wine taverns deliver. Traditional Austrian Brettljause cuisine is served, with hearty cold meats, pickled veggies, cheese, spreads and bread. Proprietor Norbert Walter is from the Alpine pastures of the Tyrol area, and these origins are reflected in the menu. Walter’s wines are certified organic and Fritz Wieninger, mentioned above, has a hand in the production of the wine.

Edlmoser Weingut & Heuriger

Located in Mauer, in the southwest of Vienna, Edlmoser is another spot to experience a dedicated range of Wiener Gemischter Satz as well as a generous offering of red wines, including a rare Syrah. While most of Vienna’s taverns are located in the northern reaches of the city, a visit to Edlmoser offers a different perspective. The tavern dates to the 1600s and is just a short walk from the vineyards. There’s an interesting connection with California—proprietor Michael Edlmoser previously worked with Paul Draper of Ridge Vineyards.

Mayer Am Pfarrplatz

This is one of the most famous wine taverns in Vienna. Ludwig van Beethoven lived next door, and in the summer, the place fills up with guests by the hundreds. But don’t mistake size and notoriety for a lack of charm. Inside Mayer, there is a snug setting with traditional wooden tables, regular live music and a hot and cold buffet with seasonal Viennese specialties. Outside, there is a lovely shaded courtyard. Mayer also runs a buschenschank at Nussberg when the weather is pleasant.

Müllers Heuriger & Weingut and Stadtweingut Müller

Third-generation proprietor Johannes Müller takes pride in being an urban winery (stadtweingut) that combines contemporary and transparent methods with a nod to tradition. The authentic tavern in busy Grinzing, with a unique tiled stove, offers indoor and outdoor seating and is known for delicious food. In 1952 Müller’s grandfather Hans Schmidt bought the property and vineyard, and the former stable became the tavern and the orchard is now the garden. Müller also puts on a buschenschank at Nussberg during the summer season.

This article originally appeared in the December 2022 issue of Wine Enthusiast magazine. Click here to subscribe today!

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“The reason Vienna is one of the most exciting places to drink wine is that [its wine scene] was created on the backdrop of the amazing producers that Austria has today,” further explains Marko Kovac, founder of Karakterre, a natural wine fair based in Austria. “For me, it’s like a new reality where the attention has been offset from France and Italy, towards Austria, as one of the leading countries for organic, biodynamic and natural wines, and not only from the locals, but from all countries of Central and Eastern Europe,” he explains.

Below, Austria and its wine culture are celebrated in all their glory in these interesting places around Vienna. Here’s where to eat and drink in the City of Dreams if you like wine.

Fine-Dining Restaurants

Restaurant Konstantin Filippou

Greek-Austrian chef Konstantin Filippou holds two Michelin stars for his seafood-centric restaurant, which sits on the edge of Vienna’s 1st district. Filippou’s culinary brilliance reflects his Mediterranean upbringing and myriad travel experiences. Consequently, the artfully-plated eight-course menu features dishes like Arctic char with duck liver, umeboshi (a Japanese style of pickled, salty plum) and artichoke.

“I love the [smokey aroma] of the delicate char in harmony with the light, salty plum and liver,” says Filippou. “The liver embraces the char, without choking it, but rather worshiping it.”

The dish is a showstopper paired with the Suertes Marqués Vidonia Listán Blanco 2020 from the Canary Islands, chosen from Head Sommelier Steffi Wiesner’s 400-bottle wine list. The list, of course, focuses on organic, biodynamic and natural wines from Austria, but also has carefully-selected gems from other parts of the world.

Next door to his flagship restaurant, Filippou, and his wife Manuela, also own a more relaxed and affordable wine-centric bistro called O Boufés. One of the first wine bistros in Vienna, it helped put the city on its path as a wine-centric locale.

“Both of our restaurants focus on great food and great wine,” says Manuela Filippou. “If you want the whole tasting menu, you choose fine dining. If you want à la cart—or are a foodie-beginner—then you visit O Boufés.” At Restaurant Konstantin Filippou, the tasting menu goes for €250 with the option to add an eight-glass wine pairing for an additional €135.

Amador

This three-starred Michelin restaurant by German-Spanish celebrity chef Juan Amador is in Vienna’s wine-producing 19th district. Situated in the cellar of the Hajszan Neumann Winery, Amador is run in partnership with the prominent Viennese vintner, Fritz Wieninger, proprietor of an eponymous winery and the Hajszan Neumann winery. The cooking focuses on local produce and Amador’s blended cultural background, like Maultasche, a meat-filled pasta akin to ravioli, with morels and green asparagus matched by a generous offering of European wines like Le Piane Boca 2016. The tasting menu is priced at €345, with the wine pairing option for an additional €175.

TIAN

Vegetarians will delight in knowing that the first European vegetarian restaurant with a Michelin star is TIAN in Vienna. It offers great wines to pair with the food of chef Paul Ivic, whose no-waste philosophy and focus on organic, biodynamic and Demeter-certified produce earned him a green star from Michelin for sustainability. The wine list follows the same ethos, so expect a lot of low-intervention wines that perfectly counter the intensely flavored veggie dishes, like the popular porcini, sunflower and blackberry. A vegan option is also available.

TIAN also offers a more relaxed experience called TIAN Bistro am Spittelberg. With a less-expensive tasting menu and a shortened wine list, it still offers a peek into Austria’s incredible sustainable wine scene, where you can grab up stellar wines like the Christian Tschida Birdscape Rosé 2020. At TIAN, the eight-course tasting menu currently goes for €155 with a wine pairing for €99. The tasting menu at TIAN Bistro am Spittelberg clocks in at €41 per person.

Vestibül Restaurant im Burgtheater

Vienna’s Burgtheater, the national theater of Austria, is home to Vestibül restaurant. Named after the restaurant’s location inside the theater’s vestibule, the restaurant is replete with Imperial and marble decor. Despite its extravagant interior design, the menu is surprisingly affordable, and a pared-down version of a fine dining menu. Chef Christian Domschitz’s eight-course tasting menu won’t disappoint, with the mouth-watering Szegediner lobster and cabbage or lobster soup holding court as perfect pairings to sommelier Marinko Barisic’s eclectic list, including the Kolfok Querschnitt Weiss 2019. The eight-course tasting menu is priced at €109, with an optional wine pairing for an additional €60.

Wine Bars and Bistros

MAST Weinbistro

A must-visit for wine lovers in Vienna, MAST is the brainchild of two sommelier friends, Matthias Pitra and Steve Breitzke. Here, you will most likely find local and international wine geeks, but also winemakers and foodies. Rare bottles line the shelves, including those from some of the most influential producers of the past decade. The philosophy behind the selection? A focus on organic and natural wine.

The seasonal food is locally sourced, and with a modern, international twist. You can order à la carte, but the six-course tasting menu is where it’s at. Try the Salmon Trout, Chogga Turnip, Physalis and Chili Mayo or the tomatillo and lardo, and pair with Richard Leroy 2017. The six-course tasting menu, which costs €75, lets you hit the highlights, while a wine pairing can be added for only €49.

Heunisch & Erben

The very name of this chic establishment suggests that this will be a place for wine geeks interested in Austrian wine. Heunisch and Erben translates to “Heunisch and the heirs,” with Heunisch referring to the ancient grape variety thought to be the ancestor of many Central European varieties.

The extensive list’s main draw is the depth of Austrian wine vintages spanning five decades, including Hans & Anita Nittnaus Pannobile 1993 and Blaufränkisch Vordeberg 2015. However, there is also good representation of many other classic European regions, from Piedmont to Burgundy. Bar seating or outdoor dining are excellent spots to enjoy a plate of traditional Austrian goulash or wiener schnitzel.

Glacis Beisl

With one of the most beautiful gardens in Vienna, set in the MuseumsQuartier district, another industry favorite spot is Glacis Beisl, which offers Viennese and classic Austrian dishes. Beisl is an Austrian word for “pub,” or, rather, a place where people gather to have many kinds of drinks and beverages. But at this place, owner Paul Bodner offers only rare wines from the surrounding countries instead, to pair with the Austrian the Greaves dumplings with sauerkraut or wiener schnitzel. Think: Friuli and Slovenia. However, you can still get your Austrian fix, too. Try the fantastic Franco Terpin Pinot Grigio Sialis 2012 or Aci Urbajs Organic Anarchy Riesling 2007.

Alma Gastrothèque

This vegetarian-friendly spot is perfect for a date or a small group of people who like to share food. The cooking is unpretentious, smart, and made from locally-sourced ingredients. The wine list, which includes a new wave of Austrian producers, offers bottle standouts like the Johannes Zillinger Numen Fumé Blanc 2019, to match with dishes like Pea and Cabbage Turnip Vichyssoise with Raw Arctic Char and Nasturtium.

Spots with a View

Das Loft

On the 18th floor of the SO/Vienna Hotel, Das Loft offers one of the best views of the city and Stephansdom cathedral with its floor-to-ceiling windows. Although a bit swanky, with modern cooking and a heftier price tag, the vibe is unpretentious. Apart from local wines, the list features a good selection of French wines, while the bar mixes fabulous cocktails.

Mayer am Nussberg

You can’t go to Vienna and miss visiting one of its many heurigers, or wine taverns. Technically, this is a buschenschank, or a small inn where winemakers can serve in the off season. On top of the Nussberg vineyard, the tavern offers panoramic views of the city.

Casual Hangouts and Wine Shops

R&Bar and Weinskandal

These are two separate businesses, but Moritz Herzog owns both. Weinskandal is one of the first natural wine shops in Vienna, while R&Bar is a newly opened casual wine spot in the hip 7th district. The perfect place for drinks, Herzog’s places have small menus focusing on shareable snacks.

Wein & Co

This flagship Vienna wine shop near Stephansdom Cathedral is one of the most influential retailers in the country. Long-time CEO of the Austrian Wine Marketing Board, Willi Klinger, established the joint back in the 1990s and continues to manage it. The shop offers a large selection of international classics and renowned producers as well as geeky insider wines. There is also a dining area where you can enjoy one of the wines from the shop (with a corkage fee) to pair with traditional Viennese food.

Unlikely Wine Destinations

Joseph Brot

Recognized for sourdough, humble sandwiches and pastries, Joseph Brot focuses on all-organic ingredients and products. While buying your loaf or breakfast, you’ll also find a small selection of organic and natural wines from Austria on display. There are eight of these around the city, some with a bistro for casual dining.

Der Schweizer

This tiny artisan Swiss cheese shop is in the 1st district and features a small selection of Austrian wine that can be picked up or enjoyed under the small gazebo in front of the storefront.

Meinklang Hofladen

Although it seems to be a bakery and a farm shop at first sight, this spot also sells special wine bottles. Owned by Meinklang, a family-owned biodynamic farm and winery in Burgenland, Meinklang produces a wide range of low-intervention wines, but this hofladen—or farm shop—also features U.S. wines.

The post The Wine Lover’s Guide to Vienna appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

There was a trend of cultivating international red grapes like Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon in the 1990s. However, those red grapes paled in comparison to Austria’s white offerings.

But, thanks to trailblazers Roland Velich of Weingut Moric along with Uwe Schiefer and Hans Nittnaus of their eponymous estates, in the last two decades plantings of red grapes have doubled—especially indigenous varieties.

Here’s a look at the red varieties, both international and indigenous, which are pushing Austria’s red wine scene forward.

Blaufränkisch

Blaufränkisch, or Blau as locals call it (blau rhymes with now), was the noble grape of the Austro-Hungarian Empire (1867–⁠1918). Its suffix signals its pedigree, as, at the time, collectively, noble grapes were referred to as “Fränkisch.”

Burgenland is home to the early-budding and late-ripening grape. The region features three appellations, or Districtus Austriae Controllatus (DAC), exclusively dedicated to the grape. These are: Eisenberg, with schist and slate soils; Leithaberg, featuring limestone; and Mittelburgenland, where Blau grows in heavy loam.

Blaufränkisch in Leithaberg

Apart from Nittnaus, another notable veteran Blaufränkisch grower is Gernot Heinrich, who, with wife Heike, runs one of the largest privately-owned wineries in Austria, Weingut Heinrich.

Within the last five years, Heinrich has converted his entire production to natural, or low intervention winemaking.

Another noteworthy winery is Lichtenberger-Gonzalez, run by Martin Lichtenberger and Adriana Gonzalez.

Their wines impress with delicate, graceful and floral expressions. They produce two high-class wines from the grape in Leithaberg. One bears the appellation name while the other is called Vorderberg and comes from a selection of their oldest vines—60 years on average.

Blaufränkisch in Eisenberg

Christoph Wachter, who runs Wachter-Wiesler, brilliantly transforms Eisenberg’s cooler microclimate and poor green schist soil, into delicate, graceful Blaufränkisch, which is often lower in alcohol.

These wines unfurl beautifully with short-term cellaring.

Blaufränkisch in Mittelburgenland

In Mittelburgenland, Franz Weninger is doing wonders with Blaufränkisch on his eponymous estate. Weninger champions biodynamic farming and natural winemaking and Blau is the crowning of Weninger’s portfolio.

Weninger’s versions are vibrant and combine power and poise with pleasant mouthfeels of dazzling textures. “You have to embrace the acidity as the vehicle and be gentle on the tannins,” explains Weninger.

Other notable Blaufränkisch producers from Burgenland include Rosi Schuster, Claus Preisinger, Judith Beck, Kolfok, Christian Tschida and Gut Oggau.

Blaufränkisch Outside Burgenland

In Carnuntum, southeast of Vienna towards the Slovakian border, Weingut Dorli Muhr has emerged as the classical Blaufränkisch specialist, working organically, and crafting elegant wines. Her Blaufränkisch grows on the Spitzerberg mountain, which has poor limestone soils and an extreme mix of wind and dryness.

“In such conditions, the berries are much smaller than in Burgenland, and [the] yield is low,” explains Muhr. This combination creates wines that are aromatically expressive yet filigreed and graceful, which is typical for this terroir.

In Styria, Blau is very rare. However, in Styria’s Sausal, a lone ranger, Karl Schnabel, devotes his work to crafting exemplary red wines. His Blaufränkisch is idiosyncratic and different from any other versions from the country. This is thanks to the terroir of the Sausal mountain range—which is geologically older than the Alps—as its soils are almost entirely pure schist.

Sankt Laurent

Sankt Laurent wines offer a unique profile, combining silkiness with red to dark fruit and often gamey notes. Indigenous to Austria, it primarily grows in Thermenregion and Burgenland. It’s not an easy grape to cultivate as it’s sensitive to fungal diseases because of its thin skin. It needs to be planted in vineyards with good airflow.

Also, it can be difficult in richer soils as it requires a lot of work in the vineyard with both canopy management and timing of the harvest.

Sankt Laurent can also be finicky in the cellar.

“Longer maceration extracts gamey flavors of the grape,” says Hannes Schuster, winemaker and proprietor of Weingut Rosi Schuster in Burgenland. Schuster leaves Sankt Laurent on the skins for less than a week for this reason.

This red was his first project before taking over the family estate. “At that time, my parents focused on international varieties and allowed me to play with Sankt Laurent.”

Today, he produces one of the most elegant and sophisticated expressions of this grape.

Another notable producer is Michael Reinisch, of Johanneshof Reinisch in the Thermenregion. His style is slightly heavier than Schuster’s but still balanced and complex.

Zweigelt

Zweigelt is Austria’s workhorse grape. In 1922, Professor Fritz Zweigelt bred it by crossing Blaufränkisch with Sankt Laurent, and gave it its alias name, Rotburger. It is much easier to grow than either of its parents. Hence, it is the most widely planted red variety throughout Austria.

It is the primary grape of the Neusiedlersee DAC in Burgenland and Rubin Carnuntum. However, in Carnuntum, winemakers aim to produce quality fine wines from Zweigelt.

“Zweigelt is our signature grape and with careful vineyard work and yield management, it can be very complex,” explains Christina Artner Netzl of Weingut Netzl in Carnuntum. Her single-vineyard Zweigelt wines, Bärnreiser and Haidacker are a testament to her words. Christina also makes a more quaffable style of the grape under her private Christina label, which is meant to target the natural wine movement.

Natural wine stars from Styria, Franz Strohmeier and Sepp Muster also produce Zweigelt, which is lighter in style and higher in acidity.

Additionally, worth noting are Strohmeier’s reds made from Blauer Wildbacher, a native variety to Weststeiermark. It’s normally used for producing a regional rosé called Schilher.

International Red Varieties

As for international varieties, the Merlot blend from Nittnaus, Comondor, is one of the most famous and is perfect for Bordeaux lovers.

For Austrian Pinot Noir, locally known as Blauburgunder, look for selections from Claus Preisinger.

Finally, fungal-resistant (PiWi) grapes are also gaining popularity due to climate change. Turn to Gut Oggau for their red blends, which often include a PiWi called Roesler.

The post A Guide to Austria’s Underrated Red Grapes appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

In Austria, the category isn’t defined from a legal standpoint, but it encompasses organic and biodynamic wines made in a minimalist style, without industrial methods such as chemicals, cultivated yeasts or even sulfites in some cases. When natural wines started to gain attention more than a decade ago, many dismissed them as a fad. However, these wines continue to gain favor among the world’s top sommeliers and consumers alike, and Austrian winemakers find themselves at the vanguard.

“I am a classically trained sommelier, and was skeptical about the [natural wine] movement, but while writing my book [Wine Simple], I learned some things and got very interested,” says Austrian native Aldo Sohm, wine director at chef Eric Ripert’s Le Bernardin and partner of Aldo Sohm Wine Bar in New York City.

These wines hold particular appeal for a generation of wine lovers enamored with their distinct character, which often include funky aromas and cloudiness due to the lack of filtration.

“With natural wine, Austria in general was able to expand the sales channels,” says Carmen Augschöll of the Austrian Wine Marketing Board (AWMB) trade group. “[And] not only in the niche market of hipster Brooklyn, but also on a larger scale.”

Organic farming has gained momentum around the world over the past few decades, embraced even by large-scale producers. But the practice has taken off in Austria.

In 1993, the first year that organic viticulture was tracked in Austria, there were 529 acres of organic vineyards, according to Willi Klinger’s Wine in Austria. That number more than doubled by 2000. In 2018, nearly 15,000 acres were certified organic. That represents more than 13% of the country’s total vineyard areas.

By comparison, less than 3% of California vineyards are certified organic, according to the California Certified Organic Farmers trade group.

“Austrians are culturally very environmentally responsible,” says Kreso Petrekovic, a winemaker and natural wine importer in charge of Kreso and Zev Selections based in Brooklyn, New York, part of the ZRS Wines portfolio.

Austria has a long history of environmental consciousness. Biodynamic farming, which predates organic farming by 20 years and encompasses many of its practices, was developed by Austrian philosopher Dr. Rudolf Steiner in 1924.

The country is home to one of the world’s first biodynamic wineries, Nikolaihof, which began to implement some of Steiner’s principles in 1971. It’s now certified by Demeter, an international organization for certifying biodynamic agriculture.

In 2007, a dozen top Austrian vintners created Respekt, an organization for biodynamic viticulture that now includes 25 wineries from Austria, Germany, Italy and Hungary.

This “green” mentality built a strong foundation for the country’s natural wine movement, but natural wine isn’t just about farming.

“It is a lifestyle,” says Stephanie Tscheppe-Eselböck, who runs Gut Oggau estate in Burgenland with her husband, Eduard Tscheppe.

French natural wines began to receive attention in the early 2000s. The movement appealed to a small number of Austrian vintners.

“Upon the return to my family estate [in 2000], we decided to fundamentally change things and have a new beginning,” says winemaker Sepp Muster, one of Austria’s natural wine pioneers.

Muster refused to use artificial sprays to protect his vineyards from mildew. His vineyards are in Austria’s Styria region, where high annual rainfall often brings disease pressure.

The Muster estate earned its biodynamic certification in 2003. “You have to free yourself from old worries and trust nature,” he says.

Muster and his wife, Maria, work exclusively with indigenous yeasts. The wines are bottled unfined and unfiltered, with little to no added sulfites. Their approach inspired Maria’s brothers, Ewald Tscheppe of Werlitsch, who runs the estate with his wife, Brigitte, and Andreas Tscheppe, who runs his namesake winery with his wife, Elisabeth. They’re not related to the Gut Oggau Tscheppe family.

They were joined by Alice and Roland Tauss, and Franz and Christine Strohmeier.

Together, the five families established Schmecke das Leben (“Taste Life”), a vintner collective with the goal to make “living wines” with a holistic approach. Another Styrian winemaker, Karl Schnabel, began to make wines without added sulfites around the same time.

Austria’s natural wine movement was spreading, yet the wines were initially met with disapproval. “We had to fight with the windmills,” says Gut Oggau’s Eduard Tscheppe. “We had to always explain why our wines were cloudy, or why they smelled the way they did.”

Eduard Tscheppe had made more conventional wines, but when he bought his estate with Stephanie, they took the most natural approach to learn about their vineyards and how wines react without additives and filtration.

Today, Gut Oggau wines, as well as many other natural wines from Austria, can be found in some renowned restaurants and wine bars like Noma in Copenhagen, Septime in Paris and Maaemo in Oslo.

“Natural wines helped Austrians enter some establishments they never would have with Grüners and Rieslings,” says Petrekovic.

What sets these natural wines apart is their lack of technical flaws like volatile acidity, signs of Brettanomyces and “mousiness,” undesired traits for which natural wines are often criticized.

“They yield incredible textures, ageability and are resilient to flaws,” says Mackenzie Hoffman, a sommelier and wine consultant at Domaine LA and El Prado Bar in California.

A lot of it has to do with Austria’s cooler climate. “Austrian wines have high acidity and low pH levels [typical for cooler regions], which naturally inhibit bacterial growth that cause technical flaws,” says Petrekovic.

There is a perfectionist mentality that’s so embedded in Austrian culture. Aldo Sohm makes wine with Gerhard Kracher, a member of Austria’s most renowned family of winemakers. One day, Sohm met one of Kracher’s neighbors, natural winemaker Christian Tschida.

“Meeting Christian, I learned that natural winemakers are maniacs in the vineyards and cellars,” says Sohm.

“People often think that natural winemaking is easy, that you just oversee the fermentation and nature does the rest, but you have to strictly pick healthy grapes and have a very clean cellar,” says Tscheppe-Eselböck. “It is hard work.”

The post Why Austria is a Leader in the Natural Wine Movement appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

Forstreiter 2019 Ried Kremser Kogl Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal); $17, 93 points. Yeast and salty miso are the chief notions on the nose. The palate adds pepper and wonderfully vivid, slight spritz to the slender but concentrated body while lemon brightness highlights the purity. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —Anne Krebiehl MW

Fischer 2019 Ried Zanzl Grüner Veltliner Federspiel (Wachau); $20, 92 points. Citrus freshness melds into savory, slightly funky yeastiness on the nose. The palate then focuses on a yeasty core that hides lovely, miso-like saltiness and herbal savor in its recesses. Above that is refreshing juiciness of lemon and Mirabelle plum yielding a lovely combination of depth and ease. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K.

Winzer Krems 2019 Edition Chremisa Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich); $20, 92 points. Notes of fresh yeast blend with hints of cut green pear on the appetizing nose. The palate has that same salty, yeasty tanginess but adds a whole load of white pepper spice. All is held in a tight, textured frame where zesty freshness and saltiness form the long finish. Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K.

Anton Bauer 2019 Gmirk Grüner Veltliner (Wagram); $18, 91 points. The nose is subtle but intriguing in hints of ripe pear flesh, yeast and nuttiness. The rounded palate sweeps these notions up in its rich, smooth texture but guides them with an unfailing edge of zestiness. A lovely combination of emollient generosity and freshness with a dry, salty finish. KWSelection.com. —A.K.

Laurenz V. 2019 Friendly Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal); $20, 91 points. Pear drop and freshly cut Conference pear peel fill the nose with fruity, easy freshness. It is this fresh, vivid bright fruit that takes center stage on a creamy, smooth and slender palate. It shows some of the varietal pithiness towards the dry finish. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —A.K.

Dürnberg 2019 Falkenstein Grüner Veltliner (Weinviertel); $15, 90 points. Peardrop and lemon zest notes pervade the nose with fruity freshness. The palate immediately trumps with zesty concentration and vivid freshness that has a lovely tinge of juicy tangerine. The finish is dry, fresh and clean. Multiple U.S. importers. Best Buy. —A.K.

Pratsch 2019 Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich); $14, 90 points. Ripe pear on the nose comes with touches of honey and yeasty. The palate is easy, dry, vivid and savory, with lifted notions of pear and lemon. The finish is vivid and fresh. Winesellers, Ltd. Best Buy. —A.K.

Josef Bauer 2019 Grüner Veltliner (Wagram); $12, 89 points. Notions of peardrop, freshly cut green pear peel and and creaminess create a lovely, fresh, appetizing nose. The palate then majors on that creamy but fresh mouthfeel, rounding out the pear flavors with slender smoothness. The finish is dry and bright. Siema LLC. Best Buy. —A.K.

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The future of farming has to change. As the planet groans, more and more people understand this. But some of the approaches we accept today as possible solutions were once seen as unorthodox, especially the idea of biodynamic farming.  

This method was developed by the controversial philosopher Rudolf Steiner early in the 20th century, and it has as many adherents as critics today. In addition to rejecting synthetic inputs, it espouses holistic, closed-loop farming that considers every plot to be a cosmos in itself. It’s especially the mystical elements of biodynamics, based on lunar and star cycles, that set some people on edge.  

Yet, Austria has long had biodynamic pioneers. They blazed the trail and are now making wines of astonishing beauty and depth. 

Christine Saahs, Nikolaihof, Wachau 

Saahs and her husband, Nikolaus, were so ahead of their time that they had to bear derision and scorn. They started to farm biodynamically, pretty much in isolation, in 1971. The impulse to do things differently came from a family doctor who embraced another of Steiner’s philosophies, anthroposophy. It holds that humans have the ability to access the spiritual world through their cognition.  

“I had no idea who Rudolf Steiner was, or [what] anthroposophy [was], but fundamentally my husband and I were convinced that the future of farming had to be different,” says Saahs. “Healthy soil with healthy plants.”  

Today, she smiles at those uncertain beginnings, but she also remembers a more experienced farmer telling her later that what matters is “to take a step in the right direction.”  

“Whether what we did was perfect or not, I believe that the will you put into your work for the future, and for what is good, is as important,” she says.  

Those beginnings were not easy. Sometimes they feared losing their existence. 

“Some journalists turned up to explain to my husband what modern winemaking should be,” she says. “But that did not bother us. We did the best we could. Because we were so resolute, people believed us. Thank heavens both of us were raised in a free spirit.  

“You need to weave your own thoughts through everything you hear, see and experience, and then you can decide for yourself. If you then realize that it was not the best course, you can change.”  

Saahs says that the brand had exported a lot of wine during the 1980s, so she knew gaining international acceptance would be easier. Their children took over in 2005, and the estate is more solid than ever.  

After almost 50 years of biodynamic farming, Saahs says it is “an incredible luck” to have encountered this philosophy.  

“It enabled me to understand the meaning of life, and to impart this to my children,” she says. “It is a blessing.” 

Josef Umathum, Weingut Umathum, Burgenland 

“It is so important to have a view from outside,” says Umathum, who grew up in a winemaking family. When he was younger, he planned to leave it all behind, studying geography with an eye toward a different career.  

“Stewing in your own juices is not good,” he says.  

It was at university in the early 1980s that he encountered alternative farming. After stints in Germany, Burgundy, Provence and Bordeaux, he changed his mind. Umathum returned home to his family’s estate and implemented biodynamics.  

This was in 1985, just after the devastating scandal when it was revealed that the toxic substance diethylene glycol was added to Austrian wines to make them taste more appealing. The country’s domestic and international wine markets had collapsed.  

“There was this idea that there could be a different way,” he says. “I knew nothing about biodynamics.”  

So, he went to lectures and started to read about it. Initially, it all seemed “mystical,” he says.  

“But, above all, you learn to observe,” he says. “This is decisive. You look at nature with different eyes. The early years were hard. The vines needed to adapt. It takes a while for the inner forces of the plants to become effective.”  

It took a lot to convince his vineyard crew and convert them to this way of farming. Now, after 35 years of alternative farming, he says biodynamics are “about more than making wine, more than agriculture. There is depth. Taking part, observing, understanding correlations. That is important. This is a source of strength and the beauty.  

“For me, it is a real enrichment. You may ask if the wines are better. But in reality, the question is, are you tasting the wines differently now? The most important thing is to change as a person, to change your view of nature. It is about being human as a whole, not just about farming.”  

Fred Loimer, Weingut Loimer, Kamptal 

Loimer abhorred the mineral fertilizers and pesticides that his parents used at their estate. As he became involved in the late 1980s, he stopped all that. His route to biodynamics, however, was slow. The change was not driven initially by environmental concern, but by his belief that so many wines in his region, Kamptal, began to taste the same.  

“We fined our musts and used cultured yeasts,” he says. “It was all rather technical winemaking, and the wines were so samey.”  

As he tasted with a friend in 2005, they began to question, “What now?” The friend floated the idea of biodynamics.  

“All I knew about biodynamics at the time was something vague about moon phases and cow horns,” says Loimer.  

He looked for advice, discarded those who were “dilettante or dogmatic,” and got together with other Austrian winemakers. These were the beginnings of Respekt, an association of biodynamic estates in Austria, Germany, Italy and Hungary.  

“We learned biodynamics from the ground up,” he says. “The first thing to change was emotion. I was enthused, and carried that enthusiasm into the vineyard. We made nettle tea and drank some of it before spraying it in the vineyard. Imagine spraying something you can drink. That was a strong emotion. The vineyards showed their true face: some thrived, others suffered.  

“We realized how important it is to have the right vines in the right place, down to the herbs and grasses in the vineyard. The basic biodynamic principle is to work with the resources at your farm . . . Each farm is a living organism, and this is the fascinating thing that continues to evolve. It is beautiful to taste today and feel that this individuality is in the wines, too.” 

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Cantina Terlano 

Alto Adige, Italy

Wine cooperatives are common across Italy, but the concept reaches new heights in Alto Adige. There, most farms are family owned and encompass 2.5 acres or less. Membership in a co-op allows growers to engage in alternative employment, while keeping the land, and the connection to wine, in the family.

Founded in 1893, Cantina Terlano in South Tyrol is often cited as a benchmark for cooperative success. Today, the association boasts 143 members and encompasses some 469 acres. All wines meet DOC standards, a feat aided by Rudi Kofler, the co-op’s winemaker since 2002. Terlan is one of few wineries in the region with a deep library of vintages that stretches back to the 1960s and beyond.

Cave de Ribeauvillé

Alsace, France

Within France, Alsace holds the most important cooperative market. The region’s high standards are driven by a historical commitment to the concept and stiff local competition among co-ops. A star in the crowded sky, Ribeauvillé was the first. It was founded in 1895 by a group of winemakers who restored the vineyards that had been neglected after Alsace’s 1885 annexation to Germany.

Some of the sites date back to the Crusades. Ribeauvillé now manages eight Alsace Grand Cru plots within its approximately 600 acres. Such prized parcels allow the winery and its growers to compete at the top, especially given the grapes for all of its wines are harvested by hand.

Domäne Wachau 

Wachau Valley, Austria

Based in a canary-yellow Baroque palace and framed by UNESCO World Heritage Site-designated vineyard terraces, Domäne Wachau often surprises those who expect a cooperative to look utilitarian. Indeed, the beauty of the site sets the tone for the wines.

Though its origins date to the Middle Ages, it later thrived in the 18th century, when the cellar and palace were built under the guidance of the Catholic church. Its success has allowed it to continue to persist in the region, where cooperatives now account for just 10–15% of Austrian wine production. Led by Roman Horvath, MW, winery director, and Heinz Frischengruber, oenologist/winemaker, the association concentrates on small vineyard holdings, hand-picked by family owners. Its Grüner Veltliner and Riesling are not to be missed.

Produttori del Barbaresco 

Piedmont, Italy

The center of one of Piedmont’s most famous wine regions may not seem an obvious place for a collective project. But in the 1950s, after two world wars, economic depression and fascist leadership, rural grape farmers were struggling. Barbaresco’s parish priest, Don Fiorino Marengo, saw a path forward through partnership. He convinced 19 growers to create a cooperative based on three pillars: only Nebbiolo would be vinified, grower’s grapes would be sold exclusively to the co-op winery and growers would be paid based on fruit quality.

The first few vintages were made in the church basement. Today, Produttori del Barbaresco is 53 members strong and covers almost 300 acres in Barbaresco. The co-op produces a Barbaresco Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG), a Nebbiolo Langhe Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) and, in the best vintages, nine Barbaresco Riserva Crus.

Grandes Vinos

Cariñena, Spain 

Spread across the hot and rocky countryside of Aragon in Northeastern Spain, are more than 700 small grape growers. Many of these farmers couldn’t tend their old vine plots of Grenache (Garnacha) and Carignan (Cariñena) without the strength-in-numbers support achieved by joining their local cooperatives.

Grandes Vinos was formed in 1997 by several smaller regional co-operatives, which united through the help of government and public interest group funding. Today, five coops share risk and resources through  Grandes Vinos management. The winery also provides precision farming guidance, as well as produces, markets and sells the wines.

The collaboration ultimately boosted the quality of Cariñena, allowing for a transition from bulk wine to bottled wines that would appeal to foreign markets. In other words, Grandes Vinos helped farming families go global by landing Cariñena wines on the tables and shelves of America’s restaurants and retail stores.

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Sauvignon Blanc, Gelber Muskateller and a range of Traminer varieties thrive across Austria but excel in the cool, sunny, high-altitude vineyards of Styria, or Steiermark, Austria’s southern-most region. The Thermenregion, on Vienna’s doorstep, is home to two indigenous aromatic specialities, Rotgipfler and Zierfandler.

All of these varieties have a long history in Austria, where they furnished the aromatic top notes in the field blends of the past. They have been vinified separately since the mid-20th century and have become stars in their own right.

Not widely planted and made in small quantities, they’re not as well known as they should be. While Styrian Sauvignon Blanc is making international waves, Gelber Muskateller, Traminer, Rotgipfler and Zierfandler still occupy a delectable niche. The lovely thing about them is their dryness, precision and freshness. They’re highly aromatic, but never overbearing.

Sauvignon Blanc

Austrian Sauvignon Blanc, formerly known as Muskat-Sylvaner, enjoys cult status at home, where it displays notes of lemon peel, hazelnut, smoke, flint, beeswax, honeycomb, smoke, ripe Mirabelle plum and wet walnut. It is grown across the country, but the best wines hail from Styria and owe their heightened finesse to climate.

“Styria is characterized by rough weather and poor soils,” says Alex Sattler, who’s the winemaker at Weingut Sattlerhof in Südsteiermark. “Precipitation is high, and cool Alpine winds whip through the [often steep] high-altitude vineyards, which can rise up to 1,960 feet. Sauvignon Blanc is a robust variety which develops a unique character in these tough conditions.”

He says the quartz soils make it “smoky and savory,” while limestone soils give an “elegant, salty” edge to the wine.

“No other grape variety interacts as much with the cool and damp Styrian weather or the different soils as Sauvignon Blanc,” says Armin Tement, of Weingut Tement, also in the Südsteiermark.

Some simple wines are made with the pronounced grass and passion fruit notes for which the variety is famous. The finest wines, however, are aged in various sizes of oak and acacia barrels, and they often have a creamy aspect from malolactic fermentation.

“The higher the wine quality, the more subdued the expression,” says Tement.

Single-vineyard wines have an uncommon lightness and brilliance, combined with a subtle yet profound depth of flavor.

“This is a paradox,” says Tement. “They are never loud, opulent or exotic. A mature Styrian Sauvignon Blanc shines with finesse, elegance and the clarity of its provenance. It is never superficial, always profound.”

The cool, extended growing season allows for full aromatic development and retention of acidity, which results in high maturity at harvest and natural tension. Tement says that this gives the local Sauvignon Blanc “an extra dimension but, above all, longevity.”

Sattlerhof 2017 Kranachberg Sauvignon Blanc (Südsteiermark); $75, 95 points. Yellow cherry, apricot and Mirabelle plum come to play on the creamy, tart and enticing nose. The palate adds a bright and vivid note of lime zest as well as some warmth and concentration. The result is a vivid, rounded, full-fruited Sauvignon Blanc with a creamy core and lasting, incisive flavor. Wonderful now, and certain to evolve. Drink now–2035. Craft + Estate–Winebow.

Stefan Potzinger 2018 Ried Czamillonberg Sauvignon Blanc (Südsteiermark); $35, 93 points. Notes of apricot, lemon and cream create a seductive trinity on the nose. The palate continues in the same harmonious, fruity and creamy fashion and adds contour and precision with zesty, almost spiky, lemon freshness. A yeasty note corrals all the fruit flavors into a dry, vivid, fresh finish. Drink now–2035. Yountville Wine Imports.

Schauer 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Südsteiermark); $25, 92 points. Subtle white summer blossom plays scentedly above the green-moss and lemon notes on the nose. The palate comes in with zesty concentration despite the slenderness and charm, with slight fizziness. This is light, bright but oh so expressive—totally refreshing and wonderfully dry. The Sorting Table.

Gelber Muskateller

Few wines spell summer and scented lightness as much as Gelber Muskateller. Elsewhere in the world, this ancient variety, also known as Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, is often made into sweet and even fortified wines. In Austria, a dry, slender style triumphs. Inherent, almost weightless freshness and aromas of nettle and fern allow the elderflower, honeysuckle, jasmine, citrus and grape aromas to dance without ever becoming overwhelming.

Christoph Neumeister, of Weingut Neumeister in Vulkanland Steiermark, says that Gelber Muskateller needs a long, cool vegetation period.

“This allows us to harvest fully ripe grapes at a potential alcohol level of 11.5% in the middle of October,” he says. He points out the big difference in day and night temperatures, which encourages the full aromatic development and acidic brightness of this late-ripening grape.

Neumeister employs skin maceration to get as much aroma as possible, and he ages his spontaneously fermented wines on lees to make Gelber Muskateller that’s “bone-dry and juicy.”

“I want my Muskateller to be a continuous unit from first sniff to finish,” says Neumeister, who notes that long lees contact lends stability and longevity.

Gerhard Wohlmuth, of Weingut Wohlmuth in Südsteiermark, also emphasizes that Gelber Muskateller can mature for years, despite its inherent lightness. Wohlmuth cautions that site is key, though.

“It loves well-ventilated, high-altitude vineyards with poor soils,” he says.

Much farther north in the Kremstal region, Martin Nigl, of Weingut Nigl, ensures his Gelber Muskateller is planted on “light and stony soils. This way, the berries don’t get too big, and the varietal character is particularly pronounced.”

Despite these endeavors to craft expressive, long-lived wines, Austrians love to mix Gelber Muskateller with sparkling water to make summertime spritzers. Nigl says he also enjoys these bone-dry light wines as an apéritif.

Wohlmuth 2018 Gelber Muskateller (Südsteiermark); $20, 92 points. Elderflower headiness announces the bright aromatics of this vivid Gelber Muskateller. The palate stays ultralight, dry and bright with lemon, creating a highly aromatic but deliciously weightless wine. Citrus juiciness and concentration only heighten these sensations. It’s a summer joy. VOS Selections.

Tement 2018 Gutswein Gelber Muskateller (Südsteiermark); $20, 91 points. Gorgeous elderflower on the nose has a zesty streak of lime and shimmering summer blossom. The palate picks up on elderflowers and zestiness and lets them fill its slender, streamlined and dry body. Its verve and scentedness are a joy. Perfectly light and fragrant summer drinking. Weygandt-Metzler.

Nigl 2018 Gelber Muskateller (Niederöstereich); $23, 90 points. A bright honeysuckle nose has the slightest overtone of rose petal. This sends the bright aromatics of Muskateller into a rounder, spicier, more floral arena. The palate is concentrated and fresh, but enriched with that floral ripeness. The finish delivers the dry, zesty moreishness. Skurnik Wines.

Traminer

Traminer, which has been identified as Savagnin, comes in a number of ways in Austria, each with slightly different characteristics. There is Roter (red) Traminer with red grapes, Gelber (yellow) Traminer with golden grapes and Gewürztraminer with pink grapes. They have slightly different characters.

“Yellow Traminer has distinctly yellow fruit notes and higher acidity,” says Neumeister. “Hence, it has been planted more over the past 15 years.”

Joseph Umathum, of Weingut Umathum in Burgenland, says that “yellow Traminer gives the lowest yields, is filigree, but its golden berries make spicy, savory, almost honeyed wines with real freshness.”

Red Traminer, on the other hand, “is the quietest and most elegant,” says Neumeister. Andreas Eder, of Weingut Eder in the Wachau, says that red Traminer has “distinct notes of rosewood, mallow and a lot more body.”

Gewürztraminer, the best known of the trio, “has an intense rose scent, almost overpowering and very memorable, with low acid,” says Umathum. Older Traminer vineyards are often still a mix of these varieties, and most are just labeled “Traminer.”

Neumeister says that despite its “baroque” varietal nature, Austrian Traminer has “a kick of freshness.”

It’s mostly produced in a dry style. The grape takes particularly well to warmer sites in Burgenland or the Wachau, where its thick skins protect it from fungal infections.

Eder makes dry wines from his red and yellow Traminer in the Smaragd style, which is Wachau’s designation for the latest harvest and highest alcohol level. He says that the phenolic nature of the wines, resulting from the thick grape skins, requires some cellaring for a harmonious expression.

For Umathum, these phenolics are a structural element that help balance the moderate acidity and allows the wines to age. Austrian Traminer is softly scented, rather than heavily perfumed. This makes it a joy.

Eder 2017 Smaragd Traminer (Wachau); $36, 94 points. Rich notes of Damask rose are shaken awake with the first swirl. The richness almost is reminiscent of oil. The palate counters this with fines spritz and vivid freshness. The tingling dryness of the midpalate introduces notions of blood orange peel. This is concentrated and aromatic in a profound rather than heady fashion. Freshness and dryness prevail to create an absolutely elegant, full-flavored wine. Drink 2020–2035. Slocum & Sons.

Neumeister 2018 Ried Steintal Roter Traminer (Vulkanland Steiermark); $40, 92 points. Fresh red apple notes come with a hint of smoke and a bright notion of Damask rose. The palate then shows generosity of fruit with an expansive, mellow palate that is defined by lemony highlights amid a lovely, rich, aromatic, rose petal-scented texture. The finish is dry and bright and comes with a light-footed, lemony freshness. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd.

Umathum 2017 Traminer (Burgenland); $23, 92 points,. Candied Mandarin orange and Damask rose on the nose make for a heady opening. The palate counters this all with dryness and freshness and a lovely texture with some phenolic pith. The finish is aromatic, dry and rose-scented. Winemonger.

Zierfandler and Rotgipfler

These two varieties, usually mentioned in the same breath, are absolute rarities. They’re specialities of the Thermenregion, where they grow in calcareous soils.

There are just 464 acres of Rotgipfler and 190 acres of Zierfandler in all of Austria. In the past, they were mostly blended together, and their quality made wine villages like Gumpoldskirchen famous.

Few winegrowers are willing to take on these demanding grapes because they are so susceptible to fungal disease. Those who grow them do so for their local authenticity and great quality potential.

Heinrich Hartl, of the namesake winery in the Thermenregion, says that Rotgipfler “has power, structure [and] longevity alongside a big portion of elegance and full-bodied aromatics.” The challenge, he says, is to express this “with precision.”

Rotgipfler is redolent of aromatic fruit like quince, citrus and red apple, often with floral overtones, and those chracteristics come with an intense, textured mouthfeel. Zierfandler, on the other hand, is known for its acidity. It’s a late variety whose pink skins gradually turn red with real ripeness. The nose often has waxy, nutty overtones and a citrus-oil richness.

“It is the last variety we harvest in mid-October,” Michael Reinisch, of Johanneshof Reinisch, says about Zierflander. He describes the grape as “rich in finesse, multilayered, with vibrant acidity and aging potential.”

The varieties require great care. Reinisch vinifies Zierfandler for a time in amphorae and keeps it on gross lees until bottling. Some continue the tradition of blending the two, because the grapes complement each other so well.

Older vintages of these wines, which seem to get ever more viscous even when made in a dry style, are a revelation.

Gebeshuber 2017 Gumpoldskirchen Zierfandler (Thermenregion); $37, 93 points. The nose is rather shy and gives merely the slightest hint of candied lemon peel. The palate, however, is a jolt of intense freshness and vivid fruit. Peach, guava and Mirabelle plum are framed by vividly tart citrus. The palate is concentrated but slender and makes an excellent case for this rare, autochthonous variety. Yum. Vignaoli Selections.

Johanneshof Reinisch 2017 Ried Spiegel Zierfandler (Thermenregion); $40, 93 points. Hints of wet hay and candied lemon make for an earthy nose. The palate is exquisitely fresh and concentrated, playing a high-toned lemon oil note against a rich, textured background. There is something urgent and pervasive about this, which will blossom fully with a little more bottle age. Drink 2022–2032. Circo Vino.

Heinrich Hartl 2018 Rotgipfler (Thermenregion); $24, 92 points. Red apple and wet earth come together in a lifted nose. The palate surprises with its roundness and its almost oily, very rich texture and immense concentration. There also is a creamy aspect that underlines all this generosity even more. Yet a wonderfully zesty core frames this richness and gives it contour, zing and freshness. A rich, dry wine for rich food. KW Selection.com.

The post The Aromatic Grapes Behind Austria’s Best White Wines appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

This lesser-known member of the Pinot family seems to be stuck in the shade cast by the more popular yet genetically identical Pinot Grigio/Gris. Yes, Weissburgunder is less overt and slender, but that is where its charm lies. When grown with respect and care, this wallflower blossoms into rare beauty.

Austria is one of the few countries that gives Pinot Blanc its full due. Stellar Weissburgunder is brilliantly pure, gently oaked, luminous with freshness and able to evolve. Above all, these wines are subtly textured with a creamy allure that only helps to underscore their finesse. Mature examples of these wines keep their freshness while gaining even more texture. This is what predestines them for the table.

These Weissburgunders can appear like svelte versions of fine Chardonnay, another grape variety the Austrians have mastered. The two bear an uncanny resemblance, not least in their ability to reflect stony soils. Austrian Chardonnay stands out with a lovely balance, showing crisp but ripe orchard fruit flavors supported by gentle oak. In Steiermark, where a cool and sunny climate allows for slow ripening and synthesis of aroma, Chardonnay, called Morillon, is a particular treat. There are 4,870 acres planted of Weissburgunder in Austria and almost 4,000 of Chardonnay. Some of the best examples of these grape varieties make it to the U.S.

Austrian Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay To Seek Out

Sattlerhof 2017 Ried Kapellenweingarten Morillon (Südsteiermark); $45, 95 points. Subtle creaminess on the nose evokes notions of freshness and gentleness. The palate then spreads out in a graceful, fine-boned structure that propels lemony grace and freshness across mouth and senses. A lovely and elegant wine that combines depth; utter, almost breezy freshness, and subtle concentration. Lovely now, it is certain to evolve. Drink now–2035. Craft + Estate–Winebow.

Schauer 2017 Ried Höchtemmel Weissburgunder (Südsteiermark); $45, 95 points. Bright, vivid lemon notes share the nose with a wonderful creaminess. The palate continues in this sunny, pure lemon and cream vision, presenting a concentrated body that comes on light, tiptoe feet. This is fresh but creamy, slender but mellow and oh so wonderfully textured. This makes the case for Weissburgunder, aka Pinot Blanc, of the highest order. Lovely now, it is certain to evolve. Drink now–2035. The Sorting Table.

Ebner-Ebenauer 2017 Black Edition Chardonnay (Niederösterreich); $85, 94 points. Stone and wet pebble notions are all that appear on the nose for now. More time in the glass reveals a hint of creaminess. The palate is slender and sinuous, guarding its fine-boned, chalky structure and gentle creaminess and allowing a glimpse of gorgeous stone fruit on the finish. A most elegant, grown-up and poised Chardonnay that is lovely now but will evolve much further. Real sophistication. Drink now–2035. The Sorting Table.

Gernot and Heike Heinrich 2016 Chardonnay (Leithaberg); $30, 93 points. A touch of funky reduction still plays about the nose, but then subtle smoke appears. The palate then counters this with bright, lemony freshness, bedded in cool chalkiness, and a lovely midpalate texture. This is wonderfully layered, stony, fruity, chalky, lemony. A wonderfully expressive wine with mileage for aging. Drink now–2030. Craft + Estate–Winebow.

Netzl 2018 Ried Altenberg Weissburgunder (Carnuntum); $34, 93 points. The subtle hazelnut notes of oak play enticingly on the nose alongside notes of ripe, juicy green pear. A subtle creaminess has lemon highlights. The palate is rounder than expected, with generous pear fruit, packing in the sunshine of the vintage. Despite its relative mildness, this strikes a balance and finishes on stone fruit and cream. KWSelection.com.

Rebenhof Aubell 2014 Silt Morillon (Steirerland); $39, 93 points. Funky, yeasty, phenolic notes dominate the nose and leave wonderful hints of dried orange peel. The slender palate has a delightful grip and a bone-dry intensity that is enriched by a slightly phenolic texture. An unusual wine but one that gets under your skin with its naked honesty and intensity. Carlo Huber Selections.

Markowitsch 2018 Ried Schüttenberg Chardonnay (Carnuntum); $33, 92 points. Only the merest hint of creaminess appears on the nose. The palate then comes in with smoky edges of hazelnut and corn husk. The body is sinuous and balanced, and it has a lovely texture as well as bright lemon freshness. There is some warmth, but this all strikes a lovely balance. Weygandt-Metzler.

Prieler 2018 Ried Seeberg Pinot Blanc (Burgenland); $25, 91 points. Apple blossom and fresh apple flesh notes on the nose signal freshness as well as subtlety. The light palate is bright and fresh and has a lovely earthy edge that lends texture. This is bright, pure, harmonious and utterly appetizing. Skurnik Wines, Inc.

Markus Huber 2018 Dolomit Chardonnay (Niederösterreich); $19, 91 points. Chalk, wet pebble and lemon on the nose bode well for freshness. The palate adds rounded stone fruit notions of Mirabelle plum while yeasty flavors come to the fore. The finish is dry and very fresh, leaving you with lemon zing and chalkiness. Broadbent Selections, Inc.

Höpler 2018 Pinot Blanc (Burgenland); $18, 89 points. A rather neutral nose merely suggests easy freshness. The palate follows this with gentle lemon notes on a slender, fresh and wonderfully light, lemon-scented palate. This is dry, bright and utterly refreshing. USA Wine Imports.

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