France Archives | Wine Enthusiast https://www.wineenthusiast.com/region/france/ Wine Enthusiast Magazine Fri, 03 May 2024 14:51:54 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.2.4 In Paris, Happy Hour Is Taking a Bite Out of French Apéro Culture https://www.wineenthusiast.com/culture/travel/paris-happy-hour/ Fri, 03 May 2024 14:51:52 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/?p=175931 The pre-dinner drinking ritual of apéro reigns supreme in France. Or does it? American-style happy hours are increasingly popping up in the City of Light. [...]

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On social media, images of Paris number in the millions—and likely beyond. Perhaps it’s because the City of Light has always been beguiling, especially for those of us afflicted with wanderlust. Certainly, the phrase “Paris is a good idea” is never lost on me every time I land at Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport. I’ve been fortunate enough to travel extensively in France several times a year and, as an American in Paris, I’m frequently the person bringing small comforts from across the Atlantic, unavailable in France, to expats here. Recently, however, it’s locals who’ve given me a taste of home.

On a recent trip to the French capital, my friend Jane Bertch—founder of La Cuisine Paris cooking classes and author of an upcoming memoir, The French Ingredient: Making a Life in Paris One Lesson at a Time—introduced me to a Parisian bar where cocktails with discounted prices flowed. I was pretty shocked. Could this be… happy hour? 

Bertch had stumbled upon the spot and a few others like it by happenstance and is now a regular. “The concept of happy hour is an American transplant into Paris,” she says. It’s fundamentally different in spirit than bars that offer apéro, an early-evening ritual observed nationwide. “While happy hour in the United States seems to be more focused on enjoying a drink of some sort”—with slashed prices, of course, because Americans love a deal—“the apéro is more about the ceremony of pre-meal time… people here will always enjoy an apéro and we don’t need a discount to do so.”

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Cocktails, in fact, are still somewhat of a recent phenomenon. “When I moved here at the end of 2005, places that served cocktails were novel and few and far between!” Bertch explains.

But, it turns out, Parisians may not be so different from Americans after all. How else to explain a growing preponderance of cocktail-swilling establishments with wallet-soothing prices? Personally, I’m drawn to this Americanized interpretation of apéro, where I can imbibe extra-dirty vodka or gin martinis at a fraction of their normal price. At these bars, I don’t need to choose between wine—the stereotypically Parisian choice—and a complex libation with what the French might consider too many ingredients. The latter, of course, might risk me seeming too American—a sin among sins for the well-traveled.

Tanisha Townsend, the Paris-based American wine educator behind the social media account Girl Meets Glass and host of the Wine School Dropout podcast, perhaps best sums up the appeal of this growing trend.

You May Also Like: How to Enjoy French Apéro Culture Like a Local

“While you do come to Paris for a French experience, it is comforting to know you can get a happy hour deal this far away from home,” she says knowingly. Here are some of my go-to Parisian happy hour spots.

Le Fumoir

Le Fumoir
Image Courtesy of Le Fumoir

This Scandinavian-influenced restaurant features a weekly-changing menu and bar slinging classic and new-school cocktails, including a mean dirty martini. Between 5 and 8 p.m., drinks are a couple euros cheaper—an excellent excuse to enjoy the 1920s-influenced decor and central location near the Louvre.

​​Objectif Lune

Objectif Lune
Image Courtesy of Objectif Lune

A nightlife standby in the Bastille, this spot offers the expected mixed drinks—think mojitos and white Russians—with steep discounts that last late into the night. The decor is kitschy and the lighting neon, but sometimes that’s exactly what you want in a happy-hour establishment.

Monk La Taverne de Cluny

Monk La Taverne de Cluny
Image Courtesy of Monk La Taverne de Cluny

More than just a bar, Monk is a Latin Quarter brasserie that also hosts live French jazz. A happy hour lasts from 4 to 8 p.m. and features deals on both beer and cocktails, the latter including apéro-appropriate sippers like the Negroni Sbagliato and Campari spritz.

Red House

Red House
Image Courtesy of Red House

“It’s the rare Paris establishment where you can enjoy a classy cocktail while wearing Chucks and ripped jeans and still feel totally at home,” reads the Facebook page for this spot, which can only be described what happens when you plop a Texas saloon in the middle of the Bastille. Happy hour, which runs from 6 to 8 p.m., features discounted beer and cocktails. Don’t skip the taco special, which changes weekly—in late April, it was the “Black & Green,” which featured smoky black beans, salsa de aguacate, vegan queso fresco and cilantro.

Le Grand Cerf

Le Grand Cerf
Image Courtesy of Le Grand Cerf

Happy hour runs from 5 to 9 p.m. at this great gem near Les Halles. There are lowered prices for a range of cocktails, which include libations like the gin-spiked Navy Tea and effervescent St-Germain Spritz. We wouldn’t blame you for wanting to stick around for dinner, which features French classics like beef tartare and American-adjacent specialties like a bacon cheeseburger with fries (here called the bacon cantal burger frites maison, of course).

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Julia Coney is a Washington, D.C. and Houston, Texas-based wine writer, wine educator, speaker and consultant. She was the recipient of Wine Enthusiast’s 2020 Social Visionary Award Winner for her work in writing and speaking on diversity, equity and inclusion in the wine industry.

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How Fried Chicken and Champagne Became America’s Favorite Pairing https://www.wineenthusiast.com/culture/wine/fried-chicken-and-champagne-pairing/ Tue, 30 Apr 2024 18:43:12 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/?p=176038 While it’s impossible to pinpoint when someone first ate fried chicken with Champagne, specific moments in time led to the current craze. [...]

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There’s something about the high-brow/low-brow combination of matching pricey Champagne with crisp and greasy fried chicken that encapsulates modern dining culture perfectly. Over the past 20 or so years, this “it” pairing has been steadily gaining traction to take the country by storm.

The most recent apex is Coqodaq, an entire restaurant devoted to fried chicken and Champagne that opened in Manhattan in January 2024. It offers the largest Champagne list in North America alongside three types of fried chicken: classic, Korean-style with garlic and soy and Korean-style with gochujang.

You May Also Like: An Iconic Fried Chicken Recipe from Napa

Sommelier Victoria James, a partner and the director of Coqodaq’s beverage program, says the moment restaurateur Simon Kim relayed the idea for the restaurant and asked about her ideas for the beverage program, she answered without hesitation: Champagne.

“In the sommelier world, and [for] wine drinkers, we all want something refreshing, bright and with minerality,” says James. “Champagne is the pinnacle of that, especially with fried foods.”

But the path to this sophisticated-yet-unpretentious pairing peak has been long and winding. While it’s impossible to pinpoint the moment someone first ate fried chicken together with Champagne (or another sparkling wine), there are definite moments in time that have led to the current craze. Below we explore how—and why—this gastronomic odd couple became inextricably linked in the modern American culinary canon.

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Why Do Fried Chicken and Champagne Work So Well Together?

While it may be known in the wine world that sparkling wine pairs well with fried foods, it helps to understand why that is: the inherent complexity of Champagne. To earn the moniker, these bottles must be aged on the lees (spent yeast and other particulate matter) for at least 12 months. During this time, in a chemical reaction known as autolysis, enzymes break down the dead yeast cells and release compounds, proteins and molecules that impart a rich, rounded mouthfeel along with creamy and yeasty, bread-like notes to the wine. These aromas and textural components complement the texture and flavor of fried chicken.

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“But most importantly, it’s structural,” says James. “You have a soaring acidity that cuts through the richness, and you also have the carbonation, which helps break up the fats on your palate. And, they’re really sharp, delicate small bubbles that don’t dissipate quickly—they really just soak up all the oils on your tongue.”

Chris Hall, chef and co-owner of Roshambo in Atlanta, which has the pairing on its modern American menu, concurs. “Down here, chicken and biscuits is a thing, chicken and waffles is a thing,” he says. “A lot of Champagnes will be really yeasty, and you get that brioche element to it, which really works.”

Coquette fried chicken and sides
Image Courtesy of Coquette

An Elevated Riff on the OG Fried Chicken and Bubbles

While the combination of bready, bubbly Champagne with fried chicken may seem like a recent idea, eating fried chicken with a bubbly alcoholic beverage—namely beer—has a longer history in both the United States and other countries. James says that part of the inspiration for Coqodaq was from Kim’s memories of chimaek, which is Korean slang for the marriage of fried chicken and beer, in Korea. Their restaurant is an elevated version of that.

Meanwhile, Kenny Gilbert, the chef and co-owner of Silkie’s Chicken and Champagne Bar in Jacksonville, Florida, has memories of his dad always drinking Miller High Life—the so-called Champagne of beers—with fried chicken. “That’s what I’m kind of starting to realize, as I talk to more people, that it kind of started with beer and then [pairing with Champagne] is the elevated version,” says Gilbert.

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Like most trends of the last decade, the pandemic played a role in how it evolved. Gilbert came up with the concept for his fast-casual fried chicken restaurant with Champagne and Champagne cocktails during COVID. His former client Oprah Winfrey (for whom he worked as a personal chef) had called to check on him, and she reminisced about how delicious his fried chicken and biscuits were. Pairing them with Champagne just worked.

Meanwhile, with restaurants closed and chefs out of work, millions of people were seeking comfort (and comfort food). Many chefs, caterers and restaurants offered fried chicken and Champagne as a to-go meal. For example, Urban Hearth in Cambridge, Massachusetts, offered the two as a take-out combo in July 2020. Hall came up with the idea for Roshambo during the pandemic when, through his existing restaurant, Local Three, he began selling takeout fried chicken and Champagne meals. Roshambo ultimately opened in November 2020 with fried chicken and Champagne as major menu items.

However, while the pandemic may have catapulted the pairing of Champagne and fried chicken into the national spotlight, the link between them began forming long before most Americans caught onto their combined charms.

Centuries of Cross-Cultural Pollination

In the U.S., fried chicken has a deep history with African Americans and is associated with slavery. As a pairing, Champagne didn’t enter the conversation until much later. But cocktail historian Deniseea Taylor, who also runs a speakeasy in New Orleans and mans the Instagram handle is @chickenandchampagne, sees a link between the two that goes beyond a good pairing. In the 1800s, enslaved Black people were only allowed to raise chickens—not cattle—as their owners thought chickens were worthless. Some of these enslaved people began to fry the chicken in palm oil with West African spices, and sell it to people passing through by train, eventually perfecting the technique and creating a style of food that became a favorite of Americans across the country.

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Around the same time in France, Champagne was still an experiment, with fragile bottles often bursting as winemakers perfected their methods. It took time for both fried chicken and Champagne to become readily available, Taylor explains.

Then, in the early 2000s, Champagne started showing up more in hip-hop songs as an aspirational status symbol signifying wealth, opulence and success. At the same time, the American dining culture was in the midst of major change.

“The early 2000s were when restaurants were moving further away from what was considered traditional dishes and trying to come up with different things,” Taylor says. Champagne and fried chicken were “an unexpected mashup.”

COQODAQ Wine
COQODAQ Wine – Image Courtesy of Evan Sung for COQODAQ

A New Era in American Dining Culture

It didn’t take long for the pairing to begin turning up at U.S. restaurants. In 2005, chef Lisa Dupar opened Pomegranate Bistro in Redmond, Washington, with fried chicken and a robust list of bubbly on the menu. Her 2010 cookbook was even titled Fried Chicken & Champagne. The following year, Jerry Lasco opened Max’s Wine Dive in Houston, with the mantra, “Fried chicken and Champagne… Why the hell not?!” In 2011, Ashley Christensen opened Beasley’s Chicken + Honey in Raleigh, North Carolina, with fried chicken and a robust sparkling wine list.

Aside from becoming more ubiquitous at restaurants, fried chicken and Champagne dinners also often appear as one-off fundraisers, pop-up dinners or weekly or monthly occurrences. Coquette in New Orleans has been hosting beloved fried chicken and Champagne dinners a few times a year since 2013. Cork Wine Bar in Washington, D.C., had weekly Sunday supper fried chicken and Champagne dinners from 2018 until the pandemic. In Savannah, Georgia, local food website Eat It and Like It runs an annual sell-out Fried Chicken and Champagne dinner that’s been happening since 2017. Before the pandemic, a food truck called Fried & Fizzy made appearances at events around Phoenix for a few years. One-off dinners in places like Lexington, Kentucky; Robbinsdale, Minnesota; and Birmingham, Alabama, have been going on for years.

Taylor recalls hosting fried chicken and Champagne happy hours in her New York City apartment, which culminated in a going-away party in 2016 before she moved to New Orleans. Her one request to guests? Everyone had to either bring fried chicken or a bottle of bubbly.

Of course, like so many trends, the pairing didn’t pop off on a national stage—at least in the eyes of the food media—until it earned recognition as a standalone concept in New York City.

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Chef Sarah Simmons had occasionally served fried chicken for her weekly Sunday Suppers at her Big Apple restaurant City Grit. But one night, after service, while drinking a bottle of Champagne alongside cold fried chicken leftovers, the idea for her next concept, Birds & Bubbles, was born. The restaurant opened in 2014 on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, offering fried chicken served in Champagne buckets along with classic Southern sides. It racked up instant critical acclaim from food media, and the pairing subsequently blew up as a pop-culture phenomenon.

It and Simmons’s other New York restaurants have since closed, but Birds & Bubbles lives on via a pre-fixe dinner at her restaurant in Columbia, South Carolina, also called City Grit. At a large table in the back of the restaurant, one nightly seating of up to eight people offers a flat-fee dinner that echoes the original “Bird & Bubbles experience,” explains Simmons. “It’s a way of keeping the brand alive and getting to preach the beauty of fried chicken and Champagne.”

Of course, while New York City can seem like the center of the universe for the folks who document dining trends, Birds & Bubbles wasn’t the first or the only restaurant serving the pairing at the time. Others outside the city have been just as—if not more successful—in spreading the word.

Also in 2014, Brooks Reitz opened Leon’s Fine Poultry & Oyster Shop in Charleston, South Carolina, with the idea of being an approachable neighborhood restaurant. Like many wine lovers, he wanted to expose more people to Champagne and convince them it didn’t have to be saved for special occasions—an idea that has taken off globally in recent years with some, us included, claiming Champagne has entered its drink “whenever, wherever” era.

“A big part of our DNA is hitting the high and the low because it’s fun, and we like when really cheap things sit next to really beautiful, expensive things,” says Reitz, who offers a well-curated Champagne list at relatively affordable prices with the goal of exposing more guests to the joys of the now-ubiquitous fried chicken pairing combo. “I want to stuff beautiful grower Champagne down people’s throats… so that people can’t not order Champagne.”

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Looking for an Affordable Champagne Alternative? Meet Crémant de Bourgogne https://www.wineenthusiast.com/ratings/wine-ratings/sparkling-wine-ratings/best-cremant-de-bourgogne/ Wed, 24 Apr 2024 15:46:16 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/?p=175862 A survey found that a quarter of Americans drink bubbles at least twice a week. These Burgundy selections are an ideal addition to one’s sparkling rotation. [...]

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Sparklers have moved beyond special occasions into everyday life in recent years.

According to analysts at the beverage alcohol market data firm IWSR Group, the number of Americans buying bubbles rose by 30% between 2019 and 2022. People are not only drinking more sparkling wine, they are drinking it more frequently. During that period the number of people sipping bubbly monthly rose to 72%, up from 56%, and experts expect this figure to rise by more than 15% through at least 2026. Most impressive, though? Nearly a quarter of the respondents said they drink bubbles at least twice a week.

Unless those researchers focused their attention on Beverly Hills, chances are most folks aren’t splashing out $50 on a bottle of Champagne multiple times per week. (But if so, we’d love to hang.) That’s where crémant comes in. These under-the-radar French sparkling wines are made in the méthode Champenoise, with the second fermentation in the bottle, just in regions outside of the birthplace of bubbles. And unlike Champagne, prices start around $20, making it a delicious and affordable option.

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Of all the crémants in France, the closest to Champagne in terms of varietals, terroir and geographic proximity is Crémant de Bourgogne. Hailing from one of the most coveted wine regions on the planet—Burgundy—these reasonably priced bottles benefit from the abundance of high-quality Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and other grapes grown on precisely defined plots of Unesco World Heritage–recognized climats or terroir.

“We’re working off the same chalky and, in some parts granitic and limestone soils, that grow the majority of the best wines we know,” says Wine Enthusiast Tasting Director Anna-Christina Cabrales. “Depending on where grapes are sourced, we can get the same essence of chalky limestone. The persistence is not nearly as strong but those looking for lively acidity and a faint hint of minerality, it is there, for sure.”

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And because producers in the region are working with similar grapes to what’s used in its more-famous-for-sparkling-neighbor-to-the-north, they can make a wide range of effervescent styles including blanc de blanc, blanc de noir and rosé. “Naturally, this is a cost-effective alternative to Champagne,” adds Cabrales.

Ready to explore the world of France’s other sparkling wines? We’ve got you covered with expert picks below.


Moillard 2018 Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne)

Initially simple and muted, this wine opens to present predominantly with pink and white flowers, freshly squeezed citrus, and salt. Some grapefruit notes add energy to the round and creamy mouthfeel, which soften any lingering green and grainy sensations. 89 Points — Anna-Christina Cabrales

$23 San Marcos Wine And Spirits

Bailly-Lapierre NV Réserve Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne)

Nostalgic aromas of raspberry squished between milk chocolate and graham cracker bring warm memories to mind. The palate is crisp, featuring these notes with delicacy and balance. 92 Points — A.C.

$23 Wine.com

Louis Bouillot NV Perle de Vigne Grande Réserve Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne)

A complex nose of fresh orange flesh, apples and cherry skins harmonize with fresh thyme and violets on the nose. The gentle palate shows flavors of red and blackberries accompanied by freshly cut apples sprinkled with salt. Its delicate long finish is caressed by a hint of salinity. 91 Points — A.C.

$ Varies Bargain Liquors

Veuve Ambal NV Grande Cuvée Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne)

Delicate aromas of tangerine, yellow peach, yellow flowers and peach gummy candy combine to deliver a fun and approachable nose. On the palate, this pretty and delicious wine is stony with light yellow peaches. 89 Points — A.C.

$19 ABC

Marie de Louvoy NV Carte Noire Pinot Noir Extra-Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne)

Pure aromas of cherry skin, Bosc pear and white flowers delight the nose. This delicate and precise expression is quite pithy on the palate and finishes with pulverized stone. Its lively mousse pairs well with oily Mediterranean fish dishes. 89 Points — A.C.

$38 We Drink Bubbles

Caves de Marsigny NV Réserve Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne)

Fresh and zippy aromas of cut apple, lime skin, orange peel, white peach and white flowers penetrate the nose. The palate gives flavors of dehydrated lemon, along with orange oil, dandelions, and stone. Its round and creamy mouthfeel is refreshed by its gentle acidity. Simple and refreshing. Best Buy. 88 Points — A.C.

$15 WineTransit.com

Jean-Charles Boisset NV No.Infinity Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne)

Riesling-like aromas are accompanied by cherries, wildflowers and damp earth on the nose. The palate displays flavors of Anjou pear, stone and light salt encased in good texture and brisk acidity. This wine makes for a great aperitif. 88 Points — A.C.

$75 JCB Collection

Prosper Maufoux NV Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne)

Refreshing, with a good balance of orchard and citrus fruit, this crémant finishes with pleasurable salinity and sweetness. 92 Points — A.C.

$24 Wine Chateau

Champliau NV Brut Rosé (Crémant de Bourgogne)

Aromas of pomelo, a sliver of honey, fresh slices of red apple and plums develop with concentration in the nose. The palate is joyous and lifted, with a touch of savory essence from plums and black cherries. Absolutely delectable. 91 Points — A.C.

$ Varies TheWineBuyer.com

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6 White Burgundy Wines You Just Can’t Ignore https://www.wineenthusiast.com/ratings/wine-ratings/white-wine-ratings/best-white-burgundy-wine/ Wed, 24 Apr 2024 14:47:15 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/?p=175861 These wines deliver power and elegance balanced with complex florals and minerality. Our tasting director often wishes they were magnums. [...]

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The white wines from France’s famed Burgundy region—not always but most often Chardonnay—are some of the most beloved from around the world. The region’s cool climate and limestone-rich soil yield exceptional bottles, whether it’s a splurgy Grand Cru for special occasions or an affordable everyday option from one of the larger appellations. 

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“There’s something about the complex aromas of white Burgundy that you just can’t ignore,” says Anna-Christina Cabrales, Wine Enthusiast’s tasting director. “The refreshing combination of fine elegance or power in citrus fruit balanced with a complex layer of florals and minerality tells me I’m in Burgundy. In developed wines, this only intensifies, but the condition of fruits and florals feel dry or dehydrated with interesting notes of toffee or honey.” 

White wines from Burgundy are often savored on their own, but they’re especially versatile when it comes to pairings. (Some suggestions? Barbecued tuna, veggie burgers, burgers with mushroom sauce or pork.) “Enjoyed with food, I often regret that the bottle wasn’t a magnum,” Cabrales says. 

You May Also Like: Aligoté, Burgundy’s Other Great White, Steps Into the Spotlight  

Though it’s hard to find a bad Chardonnay from Burgundy, we figured we’d help you out by asking the experts which bottles stand out from the already impressive pack. They rounded up six of our favorite wines, from budget-conscious Chablis and Pouilly-Fuissé to indulgent Premier Cru worth saving for a celebration. Take a look below. 

Domaine du Roc des Boutires 2020 Premier Cru Aux Chailloux (Pouilly-Fuissé)

Ripe lemons, pink lady apple, Bosc pear, honeysuckle and salty sweet butter come together in the glass. Round and focused with brisk acidity that refreshes and provides lift especially to its intense mineral midpalate. Wonderful to enjoy now. 93 points. — Anna-Christina Cabrales

$64.99 Wine.com

La Chablisienne 2020 Fourchaume Premier Cru (Chablis)

Subtle aromas of muddled lemon wedges and dandelions harmonize with tall wet grass, fresh hay and broken stone. The palate is rounded by lactic softness, with flavors of lemon pith, lime skin and bruised apple caressed by light kelp and hay. Mouth-watering acidity energizes the palate as the wine finishes with intense salinity. 93 points. — A.C.

$94.99 Bowery & Vine

Domaine Jean Dauvissat Père et Fils 2020 Côte de Léchet Premier Cru (Chablis)

Pure and fresh aromas of citrus and Anjou pear are balanced by notes of wet dandelion and stone on the nose. The wine is round and salinic, accentuating a subtle yet persistent limestone, leading to a hay and kelp finish. This expression pairs well with sushi. 92 points. — A.C.

$69.99 Paradise Wine

Louis Jadot 2020 Premier Cru (Pouilly-Fuissé)

Aromas of both tart and ripe Meyer lemon, Gala apple and honeysuckle are framed by note of light brioche with brown butter. The palate is elegant and energetic with refreshing acidity that accentuates the toasted brioche note, adding depth to its fruit profile. Enjoyable now. 93 points. — A.C.

$39.99 Plum Market

Domaine L. Chatelain 2021 Chablis

Fresh Meyer lemon, Bosc pear, lemongrass, straw and wet stone on the nose. The palate is intensely mineral-laden with crisp acidity that highlights soft citrus and hay notes on the finish. A beautiful accompaniment with shellfish. 91 points. — A.C.

$39.99 Total Wine

Simonnet-Febvre 2021 Chablis

An elegant expression with overripe lemons, Anjou pear, white mushroom and wet stone on the nose. The palate is refined with soft minerality that perfectly balances its citrus profile. Delicious and enjoyable now. 92 points. — A.C.

$38.99 Yiannis Wine
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Burgundy Taste on a Beer Budget: 7 Affordable Bottles to Buy Right Now https://www.wineenthusiast.com/culture/wine/best-burgundy-wine/ Tue, 16 Apr 2024 19:36:24 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/2023/01/04/best-burgundy-wine/ This French region may be tiny, but Burgundy produces wines sought after around the world. And fantastic bottles can be found for less than $40. [...]

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Less than 5% of French wine comes from Burgundy, but don’t let this region’s size fool you. Bottles from this tiny area vary in flavor, style and complexity, making a bottle of Burgundy something truly special.

“Burgundy is no more than 60 miles from North to South, and it produces some of the most beautiful profiles of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir,” says Anna-Christina Cabrales, tasting director at Wine Enthusiast and Burgundy and Rhône Valley wine reviewer. “Winemakers around the world try and replicate the nuances and balance of this region.” 

What Is Burgundy Wine? 

Burgundy is a central Eastern France region that produces reds, whites, sparkling wines and rosés. From North to South, there are five primary wine-producing areas; Chablis, Côte de Nuits, Côte de Beaune, Côte Chalonnaise and Mâconnais. Each one is made up of different villages, also called communes.

Some of the villages are home to climats and/or lieu dits, both of which are delineated superior vineyards. Each are “very distinct in geology and soil composition, which is primarily clay, marl and limestone,” adds Cabrales. “The decomposed marine sedimentary rocks from the Jurassic era allows the grapes to really shine and is the thread through this region.” 

Here, we break down everything you need to know about Burgundy wine, plus some of our favorite bottles.  

Our Favorite Burgundy Bottles

Chartron et Trébuchet 2021 Chardonnay (Bourgogne)

The wine presents with a spray of wet grass and fruit, with white mushroom, white lilies, and white stones enveloping the nose with a beautiful waft of light florality. A palate of under ripe citrus and pith is accompanied by an elegant tone of vanilla that lingers on the finish. 92 points. — Anna-Christina Cabrales

$22.99 The Party Source

Albert Bichot 2021 Domaine Long-Depaquit (Chablis)

Aromas of freshly cut Gala apples, Bosc pear, hay, lemongrass and chalk fill the glass. The palate is coated by mouth-watering acidity, showing flavors of fresh yuzu and lemon grass and extending a long mineral finish. This refreshingly brisk and gentle acidity tantalizes more sips. This wine should be a versatile pairing with many seafood dishes. 92 points. — A.C.

$33.99 Wine.com

Château de Chamilly 2020 Au Pied du Mont Morin (Mercurey)

Aromas of fresh earth and a handful of ripe cherries and wild strawberries sprinkled with wild mint. The palate concentrates these notes and finishes with a balanced mushroom and stone note. Textured and with good balance, this wine is approachable in its youth. 92 points. — A.C.

$33.99 Taylor’s Wine Shop

Domaine L. Chatelain 2021 Chablis

Fresh Meyer lemon, Bosc pear, lemongrass, straw and wet stone on the nose. The palate is intensely mineral-laden with crisp acidity that highlights soft citrus and hay notes on the finish. A beautiful accompaniment with shellfish. 91 points. — A.C.

$39.99 Total Wine

Nicolas Potel 2020 Bourgogne

Spicy notes of black cherry, pear skin, green peppercorn, clove, black tea and rose dance around the nose. The palate is treated to cranberry, rhubarb, fresh cherry and the same green peppercorn and clove. Although the finish is bitter and short for now, the wine may benefit from development in the cellar. 90 points. — A.C.

$25.98 Woods Wholesale Wine

Louis Latour 2020 Beaune

Focused aromas of black cherry, rhubarb, wild mint and turned earth come together in the glass for a complex nose. The palate offers deep red cherries beautifully balanced by mushroom, thyme and black tea notes. Drying tannins are balanced by brisk acidity that provides lift to this dark-fruited profile. Approachable now. 92 points. — A.C.

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Prosper Maufoux 2021 Domaine Vigne au Roy (Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits)

Lush aromatics of Amarena cherry, rhubarb, white strawberry and green peppercorn draw in the nose. The palate offers soft tannins that elegantly frame notes of bing cherry, orange oil and white tea leaf flavors along the finish. 91 points. — A.C.

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Burgundy FAQs

Which Grapes are in Burgundy Wine? 

Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are the main grapes of Burgundy. “The Pinot Noir exudes beautiful wild and sometimes concentrated red berry tones with hints of black pepper,” says Cabrales. “Its bouquet or floral presentation, backed with a fine stone minerality, captivates me. The moment I smell this, I know exactly where I am.” 

Whereas the Chardonnay from Burgundy is “like a bright sunny day,” says Cabrales. “The profile transports you to an open field where you can smell a balance between a fresh tart or ripe citrus basket. These wines’ light herbal notes and then the floral aspect is inescapable.”  

Along with these two grapes, there are several others permitted—albeit in much smaller quantities. Some regions can grow Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris and Aligoté, which is like Chardonnay.  

If you’ve ever had a Crémant de Bourgogne, or sparkling Burgundy wine, it likely used Chardonnay and Pinot Noir as its base blend but Aligoté, Melon de Bourgogne, Sacy, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris are allowed in Burgundy sparklers as well.  

What Is the Burgundy Classification System?

Like most of France, Burgundy uses a classification system to signal quality. But it can get a tad confusing.  

“Think of the classification system in terms of quality level,” explains Cabrales. “The entry will be at the regional level, followed by village and the most prized vineyards sitting at the Grand Cru level. Due to quality standards through the area, there are some Premier Crus, the level before Grand Cru, that some collectors would regard as Grand Cru quality.” 

Here’s a look at Burgundy’s classification from the base level up.  

Regional Appellations: These bottles are labeled Bourgogne Blanc or Bourgogne Rouge and are more affordable options. They will likely be Chardonnay or Pinot Noir and can come from anywhere in the Burgundy region.  

“If you’re looking to present Burgundy to friends who are unfamiliar with the region reach for these wines. They’re delightful, straightforward and easy to drink,” says Cabrales.  

Commune or Village Appellations: Wines from here will be labeled with the name of the village in which it’s produced, like Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambolle-Musigny, Beaune, Meursault, Chassagne-Montrachet or Pouilly-Fuissé, for instance. The price tag increases from the regional level.  

“These wines are a great window into village terroir and the condition of the harvest for that region,” says Cabrales. “Expect a really balanced display of fruit and a greater expression of earth and terroir.” 

Premier Crus: Almost at the top but not quite. Premier Crus can either come from single or multiple different climats.

“These wines are about a specific soil composition and site condition,” says Cabrales. “Expect various alluring profiles that can vary greatly from site to site, even if they are within a stone’s throw from each other. These wines are textured and offer layers of complexity.” 

Grand Crus: These wines are the best of Burgundy. Less than 2% of bottles carry this label and therefore are quite expensive.

“These are simply the best and, in many cases, come from some of the oldest vines in the region,” says Cabrales. “These wines are powerful, incredibly complex and arguably some of the best profiles of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.” 

What Is the Chablis Classification System?

Chablis has its own classification system. The majority of winemakers produce bottles in two or three of these categories. Only a handful make wines in all four and Chardonnay is the only grape allowed.   

Petit Chablis: Wines with this label can be made with grapes from different vineyards.  

“These are fresh wines with a citrus and zesty profile with very bright acidity,” says Cabrales. “Enjoy them in their youth and especially as an aperitif.” 

Chablis: These are the most widely available bottles. They can be made with grapes from select villages like Beines, Béru and Viviers.

“Chablis Village is your go-to when you simply want a high-acid mineral-laden wine,” says Cabrales. 

Chablis Premier Cru: Wines with this label can come from 40 different vineyards throughout Chabis.  

“The profiles can vary due to the exposition and where it sits along the Serein River,” says Cabrales. “Some might present to be a bit more austere or lean while others may exude more fruitiness. These wines have texture and a specific profile.” 

Chablis Grand Cru: Wines will this label come from Blanchot, Bougros, Les Clos, Grenouilles, Preuses, Valmur, and Vaudésir. 

“Les Clos is the most sought after,” says Cabrales. “It’s the largest of the Chablis Gran Crus and the sunniest. But all are powerful and worthy of cellaring.”

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All products featured here are independently selected by our team, which is comprised of experienced writers and wine tasters and overseen by editorial professionals at Wine Enthusiast headquarters. All ratings and reviews are performed blind in a controlled setting and reflect the parameters of our 100-point scale. Wine Enthusiast does not accept payment to conduct any product review, though we may earn a commission on purchases made through links on this site. Prices were accurate at the time of publication.

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Burgundy on a Budget: Visit The Famed French Region Without Breaking the Bank https://www.wineenthusiast.com/culture/travel/budget-burgundy-vacation/ Fri, 12 Apr 2024 22:34:14 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/?p=175472 The best places to eat, drink and stay while keeping an eye on the bottom line in France’s famed wine region. [...]

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Millions of people visit France each year to be close to some of the world’s most treasured vineyards. One of the most coveted stops is Burgundy (Bourgogne in French), a region about a three-hour drive southeast of Paris known for its Pinot Noirs, Chardonnays and more than 80 appellations to explore. While this area is home to some of the country’s most elevated vineyards and historic chateaux, this doesn’t mean that a trip is out of the question for budget-minded travelers.  Here’s how to do it right.  

France, Bourgogne-Franche-Comte, Burgundy, Cote-d'Or. Golden vineyards in Autumn, Chablis
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Chablis and Surrounds

Located in the northwest portion of Burgundy is the appellation and village of Chablis. Here, look for wines made from the region’s signature white grape, Chardonnay. However, what makes this spot unique is its cooler climate and iconic Kimmeridgian soil composed of limestone, clay and fossilized oyster shells, which produces a sip that is lean, mineral-driven and bright. 

Where to Drink in and Around Chablis 

For less than seven euros per person, visitors to La Chablisienne, a cooperative winery, can enjoy a tasting of four wines, including Petit Chablis, Chablis, Chablis Premier Cru and Chablis Grand Cru. Épineuil, located northeast of Chablis, is another unique appellation where offers hospitable tasting experiences. There, check out Domaine Dominique Gruhier for top-notch hospitable tasting experiences. Make sure to try his outstanding Crémant de Bourgogne, made with the same technique as Champagne but with local grapes (and a smaller price tag). Other suggestions include Domaine Ferrari in Irancy, where historic vintage bottles are available for under 20 euros and Domaine du Clos du Roi in Coulanges-la-Vineuse, which offers tastes of Burgundian food products such as cheese, sausages, gherkins and more. 

You May Also Like: 10 of our Favorite Chablis for Every Budget

Where to Eat in Chablis 

There’s one place everyone visits in the village of Chablis and that’s Au Fil du Zinc, which chef Mathieu Sagardoytho has led since the summer of 2020. He’s known for being meticulous with his ingredients such as local Crisenon Farm trout and lamb from nearby Clavisy Farm. To explore the wine list—which includes Chablis legends such as Vincent Dauvissat and Domaine François Raveneau—consider popping in for lunch, which starts at 34 euros for three courses. Wine pairings start at three glasses for 33 euros. Le Bistrot des Grands Crus features around 400 Chablis wines selected by Sommelier Thomas Charlut, recognized by the Revue des Vins de France for creating one of the “100 most beautiful wine lists” in the country. Some of these wines are a splurge, but the weekday menu for 30 euros and wines by the glass starting at five euros are affordable hacks that will let you experience the same local flavors on the plate and in the glass. 

Where to Stay in Chablis 

Get a room at Hostellerie des Clos, right in the heart of the village of Chablis. This hotel has amenities including a spa and gym, but room rates are reasonable, between 90 and 120 euros per night. Book during a weekday in the quiet season for the best price. Another savvy option is Appartements Domaine Gueguen Chablis, a modernized guest house run by one of the region’s most respected family-owned winery estates. It offers studio, one-bedroom and two-bedroom accommodations, starting at less than 100 euros. Wine tastings can be had for 5 euros. 

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France, Burgundy, Côte-d'Or, Dijon, Unesco world heritage site, cityscape with Sainte Benigne cathedral
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Dijon

The historic center of Dijon is part of The Climats, Terroirs of Burgundy UNESCO World Heritage Site, so expect to find great local wines paired with exceptional architecture, including a 15th-century Gothic palace and a medieval historic core filled with pedestrian-friendly winding cobblestone streets. (If you come across owl-shaped emblems, you know you’ve stumbled upon a notable location.) Dijon is also a fantastic eating city, with classic culinary delights like Dijon mustard, pungent époisses cheese and escargot on many menus. Plus, there are loads of free museums—standouts include Musée des Beaux-Arts  and Muséum d’Histoire Naturelle—so you don’t have to swipe your card to have a good time. 

Where to Drink in Dijon 

La Cave se Rebiffe is a must-visit. Reservations are essential since a full house at this intimate spot is fewer than 20 people. Jeff Burrows, DipWSET and writer at FoodWineClick.com, suggests exploring the menus on the large chalkboards and sharing a bottle with a friend. Another favorite is L’Arsouille, a natural wine shop that offers tastings and outdoor seating, so guests can enjoy a bottle on the spot. Burrows also recommends Dingovino for its selection of natural wines from the region and around France. 

For a unique experience, Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie et du Vin offers food and wine workshops and experiences, such as a program on the history of salt, a Pinot Noir versus Gamay tasting and a class about snacks of the Roman Gods. 

A short car ride south of Dijon leads to Caveau des Vignerons in Morey-Saint-Denis where 12 local producers offer over one hundred wines in a single convenient location. 

Where to Eat in Dijon 

Dijon is a food-loving city, where finding a good meal is never hard. Burrows recommends Monique for its seasonally sourced veggies and extensive wine list—three-course meals start at 24 euro. Another standout is Restaurant So, which earned a Michelin Bib Gourmand for its quality and value, from less than 30 euro for three courses. For a cozy night out, Caveau de Saulx offers great wine and organic food in this 17th-century cellar with a stony, nocturnal ambiance. 

But the most budget-friendly and flexible option is to gather ingredients from Les Halles of Dijon, a sprawling market housed in a metal and glass Gustave Eiffel (yes, Eiffel tower, Eiffel) building where you’ll be surrounded by merchants offering the region’s bounty including mushrooms, pastries, bread, cheese, pâté and more. 

Where to Stay in Dijon 

Hôtel Wilson invites guests to lodge in a fully renovated 17th-century carriage house. Located in the historic town center, with plenty of walkable experiences nearby, this hotel offers rooms ranging from 89 to 250 euro, with additional supplements for breakfast, parking and pets. Another conveniently located accommodation is Hôtel des Ducs, which boasts stylish rooms and apartments in the historic district. It also has a unique loyalty program, granting a 15% discount to return guests booking within three years of their original visit. 

Saturday Market in Beaune
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Beaune

Beaune is one of the wine capitals of Europe. It’s the home of the world’s oldest wine auction, held at the Hôtel-Dieu, one of the most famous historical sites in the region. The spectacular Gothic building features a glazed tile roof surrounded by dozens of hectares of Premier and Grand cru terroir. This is one of the most bustling spots for wine lovers in the region, full of immersive experiences into the viticultural history of Burgundy. 

Where to Drink in Beaune 

Beaune offers many places to enjoy wine without breaking the bank. Wenz recommends Le Bout du Monde for a candlelit experience with exposed-stone walls and multi-textured furniture perfect for an after-dinner sip. Many of our experts shout out teensy La Dilettante for exploring Burgundy’s wide variety of wine (which has made it a favorite among local producers) and Arche des Vins for incredible events and collaborations, such as an evening with Joel Dupuch oysters paired with the wines of Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay or Paul Boeuf wines matched with Swiss raclette. Le Soleil, in nearby Savigny-les-Beaune—associated with the multi-generational and highly regarded Domaine Simon Bize et Fils—has excellent small plates and new wines. Two cooperative tasting rooms, Le Caveau d’Auxey (tastings start at 15 euro) and Nuitons-Beaunois (tastings are free), also offer a wide selection of wines from local growers and a welcoming atmosphere. 

Where to Eat in Beaune 

Beaune is a paradise for food enthusiasts, from the rustic menu (think: beef bourguignon and jambon persillé) and exceptional wine list at Les Caves Madeleine to Le Bistrot des Falaises, an artisan bistro in tiny Saint-Romain, where you won’t go wrong with the menu of the day, starting around 23 euro. For modern, market-fresh cuisine, Relais de Saulx is a must-visit, while La Buisonnière serves traditional dishes made from local produce, with daily menus starting at less than 25 euro. At La Table du Square—a Beaune staple with a rich epicurean history, attractive to locals and visitors alike—two-courses meals kick off at 22 euro.  

Where to Stay in Beaune 

Beaune offers a wide range of accommodation options to suit various preferences and budgets. Wine writer Kristy Wenz likes Hotel Le Home’s atmosphere with its wallpapered rooms and vine-covered exterior. Le Central Boutique Hotel stands out for its chic, modern decor and convenient central location, starting at 85 euro per night. Burrows suggests four-star La Maison des Courtines, which combines classic French design with modern comforts within the historic walls of Beaune; rates start around 85 euro. For people whose design taste runs contemporary, Ibis Styles Beaune Centre (not to be confused with Ibis Beaune Center) offers amenities like a swimming pool, jacuzzi, rooftop terrace and a prime location in the heart of the city. There, expect to spend at least 115 euro a night. 

You May Also Like: Aligoté, Burgundy’s Other Great White, Steps Into the Spotlight

View of the city of Mâcon with Saône river in Burgundy, France
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Southern Bourgogne: Côte Chalonaise and Mâcon

The southern regions of Côte Chalonaise and Mâcon boast stunning vineyards and offer a delightful exploration of urban and rural beauty. Though these areas are not home to Grand Cru vineyards, they have a similar geography and the same varieties and vineyards to the north, making this a fine spot to discover excellent values. The picturesque landscapes, historical sites and farm-to-table vibe further enrich the experience, ensuring that these areas are worth the trip.  

Where to Drink in Southern Bourgogne 

Visit Millesime Cave & Bar A Vins in Mâcon, where Wenz suggests exploring the craft beer and spirits selection alongside the hundreds of French wines on offer. Another promising spot in Mâcon is the SKYBAR “Le 360” at Hotel le Panorama, which offers unmatched city views perfect for apéro. Stevie Bobés, a Burgundy resident and proprietor of the boutique travel agency Wine Ambassadeur, suggests a visit to L’Atrium, in Solutré-Pouilly, for its well-curated wine selection and tastings with respected winemakers. In Mercurey, go to Le Caveau Divin for its warm and welcoming ambiance. Lastly, don’t miss Cave de Lugny, a wine cooperative in Lugny that offers a wide selection of local wines representing over 400 grower members. Vignerons des Terres Secrètes is another essential co-op, with wines (many priced under 15 euro, or even, 10 euro) displayed alongside the soil from where they were grown. Plus, its prime location along the Green Way cycling route can’t be beat. 

Where to Eat in Southern Bourgogne 

Similar to its northern neighbors, southern Bourgogne is famous for its wines, meats, produce and cheeses. Try them at Restaurant Le Cassis by Célie and Aymeric Buiron, who have Michelin-kitchen roots. Moving to Chevagny-les-Chevrières, Wenz suggests Restaurant L’Impala des Vignes, where chef Sandra Huguenin ensures everything on the menu—from slow-cooked pork shank and chicken curry to seasonal fruit macarons—is fresh and flavorful. In Viré, check out Restaurant la Virée Gourmande for an inexpensive and typical French bistro with classic dishes; three-course menus start at 20 euro. In Givry, try Maison Minori, tucked into a refurbished wine cellar with a Japanese-inspired menu. And there’s a bonus: Minori also offers rooms for rent starting at 105 euro, with an optional breakfast.  

Where to Stay in Southern Bourgogne 

It might seem impossible to stay in a refurbished château at a reasonable price, but rural Château de la Barge offers exquisite, individually decorated rooms with outstanding views and elegant décor at approachable rates, which start around 75 euro. For an in-town option, Wenz recommends Hotel le Panorama in Mâcon, which offers comfortable accommodations with a spectacular view of town, making it an ideal choice for strolling and exploring. 

Burgundy Travel Tips for Your Back Pocket (and Pocketbook) 

  • Look for the Vignobles & Découvertes label, a national indicator of wine and vineyard tourism. These places are welcoming and approachable. 
  • The Burgundy region introduced Cité des Climats centers in Chablis, Mâcon and Beaune. Each offers introductory to advanced tasting options and is a resource for wine estate suggestions. 
  • Burgundy restaurants are small and fill up fast, so reservations are a must, even for lunch. Avoid overspending due to lack of planning. 
  • Look for the board! As elsewhere around France, ordering from the set menu—an entrée (starter), plat (main course) and dessert or cheese—will generally get you a reasonable price on a full meal with the freshest flavors. 
  • For value, Burrows suggests having your three-course restaurant meal at lunchtime rather than a pricier dinner service. 
  • Many restaurants will offer a set of wines by the glass at prices that overdeliver. Remember when drinking in Burgundy, the regional wines are often a steal and still come from some incredible sites.  
  • Substitute expensive dinners out with an evening picnic or casual homemade meal with ingredients from the market. 
  • Cooperative wineries bring together the harvest of multiple vineyards and growers within their appellation. Bobés says these places offer good value wines. They manage prices more easily due to pooled resources among member growers. 
  • Bobés also suggests visiting boutique, up-and-coming and family-owned producers. Many of these offer incredible value for exploring unique expressions of Burgundy wines. 

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Champagne’s Nearly Forgotten Still Wines Are on the Rise https://www.wineenthusiast.com/culture/wine/coteaux-champenois/ Wed, 10 Apr 2024 20:55:01 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/?p=175373 Red, white and rosé Coteaux Champenois were once considered harsh and tart in comparison to Burgundy. That's no longer the case. [...]

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While the world associates Champagne with celebratory effervescence, less well-known is that the region is also home to still wines. Officially Coteaux Champenois since 1974, these wines and their takes on terroir are nothing new yet were all but forgotten—until the past couple of decades.

Starting with the Roman Empire, Champagne’s wine-producing story began with still red. For centuries, these wines were among France’s most prized. A favorite of the former kings of France, they were served at coronations since Clovis, the first French king, in 481. Their popularity proliferated in the royal courts of Europe during the 17th century. 

It wasn’t until the accidental discovery and subsequent popularity of bubbly as we know it today that Coteaux Champenois fell out of favor. Once the méthode champenoise used to create effervescence was industrialized, still wines from the region almost disappeared, until an unexpected renaissance following the particularly warm year of 2018 changed that. Wines once considered harsh and tart in comparison to Burgundy were drinking beautifully. 

You May Also Like: A Beginner’s Guide to Champagne

“Climate change is a big factor,” explains Jean-Baptiste Geoffroy, renowned winemaker and vineyard pioneer of Champagne Geoffroy. “Phenolic maturity has increased, improving the quality of the [still] wines.” And with an increase in volume of wines, the prices have come down with most bottles generally running between $70 and $120. As a result, a growing slew of sommeliers have begun taking note of the slowly expanding category. 

Red, white or rosé, today’s Coteaux Champenois can be made from any of the grape varieties permitted in Champagne, but are generally made from Pinot Noir, Chardonnay or (more rarely) Pinot Meunier. Unlike other still wines in France, they can be non-vintage like the region’s sparklers. Ambonnay, Aÿ, Cumières, Mailly and Verzy are villages that are particularly famous for their Pinot Noir-based reds, which are hailed for their naturally high acidity owing to the region’s chalk and limestone soil. Some of these, such as the elegant cherry-inflected still reds of Bouzy, have become known for their aging potential—up to a decade in some circumstances. Also intended for cellaring are the still Pinot Noir-based rosés of Rosé des Riceys AOC, made in Les Riceys. 

“Coteaux Champenois is the most faithful expression of the grapes and terroir,” says Benoît Marguet, head of the trailblazing biodynamic Champagne Marguet in Ambonnay. “These still wines are not an afterthought—they are intentional.” 

This resurgence of Champagne’s still wines is winning over sommeliers around the world. “It is already making its way to the top tables,” thanks to food-friendly ripeness and classic acidity, notes Geoffroy. 

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The French Laundry, in Napa Valley, now offers the highly coveted Egly-Ouriet Coteaux Champenois Rouge on its menu. In Paris, Michelin-starred Sergeant Recruteur boasts a wide selection of these bottles including Champagne Coessens’ extremely limited Rouge Egrappée, which is only made in years the grapes can reach the right level of phenolic maturity. Three-Michelin star L’Assiette Champenoise, just outside Reims, even gets its own special assemblages, such as the Chardonnay-based Bouzy Blanc by Champagne Brice, for its highly wine list. 

You May Also Like: Champagne Has Entered Its ‘Wherever, Whenever’ Era

Wine stores have been increasing their selections, too. New York City’s Flatiron Wines & Spirits stocks Louis Roederer’s pricey, single-vineyard 100% Pinot Noir still red and 100% Chardonnay still white Hommage a Camille Coteaux Champenois on its shelves (and website).  Henry’s Wine & Spirit offers two Rosés des Riceys from cult-favorite Olivier Horiot, who is a leader of this new crop of winemakers who proudly experiment with single-vintage, single-varietal and single-parcel selections.

“We have a whole new generation of winegrowers … who have a much broader vision than what has been produced in Champagne for decades,” says Franck Ramage, master sommelier and co-founder of Kira Consultants. “The quality of Champagne’s still wines has increased so much that, today, these wines made from Pinot Noir can be enjoyed in the same way as those enjoyed from Burgundy or other regions.”

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Champagne Has Entered Its ‘Wherever, Whenever’ Era https://www.wineenthusiast.com/culture/wine/champagne-wherever-whenever/ Tue, 02 Apr 2024 14:19:36 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/?p=175150 The French sparkler is bound by strict regulations, but a new generation of movers and shakers is working hard to shed the category’s black-tie reputation. [...]

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A young drinker may be introduced to Champagne Billecart-Salmon, as I was by one of my aunts in my early twenties, and told she should reserve it for special occasions only. Two decades later, a trip to the region helped me see the error of my aunt’s ways. There, Champagne is consumed daily, like a beer at lunchtime, with six-euro coupes of Taittinger gracing menus at casual bistros and dive bars throughout town. 

“It’s just wine and you should drink it whenever,” a waiter at Sacré Burger in Reims told me. My mind was somewhat blown. 

In recent years, perceptions surrounding Champagne have changed dramatically, resulting in new consumer habits and attitudes from the brands themselves. Take, for example, fifth-generation Champagne Charles Dufour whose Bulles de Comptoir #10 Tchin Tchin boasts a label with a cartoon person in what looks like a furry suit. The hip bottle stands out in the Royal Champagne Hotel’s all-glass display cellar in Champillon.

While Champagne is bound by strict geographic parameters and regulations, a new generation of movers and shakers—from large houses, like Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte, to small growers that are hard to find in the United States—are working hard to shed the category’s black-tie reputation. Their goal? To make it more approachable to a wider audience on a wider array of occasions. 

“We can embody a less formal, more casual and relaxed approach,” says Guillaume Roffiaen, chief winemaker at Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte. “We truly believe that when it comes to enjoying Champagne, no occasion is necessary.”

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Champagne, Anytime

The goal isn’t to emulate Champére, the fictional party Champagne designed for celebratory spraying in Netflix’s “Emily in Paris.” Rather, the aim is to recontextualize the former special-occasion-only wine for modern audiences, who are just as likely to consume it with fried chicken or potato chips as they are with Michelin-starred tasting menus. This could mean starting a new ritual, as this writer’s friend in Charleston, South Carolina has, of making fondue and opening a bottle of Champagne Oudiette x Filles on a random Tuesday night. Or it could look like pairing Champagne Étienne Calsac L’Echappée Belle with a smash burger at the perennially popular Sacré Burger in Reims.

The burger joint, helmed by Victor Allier, boasts a Champagne list pages long and epitomizes how the prestigious sparkler is moving into casual settings. Allier handpicks the bottles, all of which are made by grower-producers, many of them personal friends, who farm their grapes and oversee every aspect of the vinification process. These grower Champagnes, which account for less than 5% of total Champagne imported to the U.S., are at the heart of this movement.

You May Also Like: Why Grower Champagne Should Be on Your Radar

Charles Dufour—and his cheeky labels—is one of the best-known. A bit more than a decade ago, after he took over his family estate Robert Dufour, and subsequently divided it amongst other family members, he got 15 acres of vines in Landeville certified organic. Those Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc grapes are the base for his yearly releases of “Bulles de Comptoir,” or “bar bubbles, and have been popular amongst small grower enthusiasts since the first release in 2010. The mission is simple: one wine, one blend and one year of aging before it’s bottled. Production is limited, but bottles can be spotted at some of the world’s greatest restaurants and wine bars like Noma in Copenhagen and Bar Brutal in Barcelona.

Antony Laviron, sommelier at the Royal Champagne Hotel, displays it prominently at the restaurant. Like Allier at Sacré Burger, he seeks out producers who are creating exclusive cuvées in tiny quantities and disrupting established norms in efforts to shift consumers’ habits.

Margot Laurent
Image Courtesy of Champagne Oudiette x Filles

Laviron appreciates houses that go against the grain of the well-known maison, which most often produce non-vintage sparklers made from blends of still wines (vin clairs) from varying years to achieve a consistent flavor profile. What excites Laviron are special cuvées that highlight a unique vintage (millésimes) or novel winemaking techniques such as some of the late releases by Jacquesson & Fils, which “has delivered exceptional old millésimes…[like] a Millésime 2002, bottled in 2004 and disgorged only in 2021,” he says. “You have complexity like an old wine but the wine has been protected and still has a lot of freshness from how it has been conserved.” 

At Jacquesson & Fils, one of the oldest and more venerable houses in the region, brothers Laurent and Jean-Hervé Chiquet implemented an herbicide-free, terroir-based philosophy after they took over the house from their father in the 1980s. They join other children of longstanding Champagne houses who have followed suit by changing up their families’ practices.

Bubbles That Tell a Story

Margot Laurent is the third-generation vigneron behind Champagne Oudiette x Filles, supported by her sister, Charlotte, and their mother, Florence. Laurent, similar to a fashion designer, produces organic single-grape, single-vintage Champagne that tells a story of a place and time. 

“We have a very special attraction with our different plots, we cultivate them and adapt our actions according to each one,” she says. “The vinification of parcels allows us to discover our terroirs, our grape varieties and our soils.” 

This desire to highlight the region’s cool climate and chalky soils goes beyond separately vinifying single plots. At fourth-generation run Champagne André Heucq in Vallée de la Marne, André Heucq and his daughter, Fanny, experiment with various aging vessels to produce wholly unique, organic 100% Pinot Meunier Champagne.

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André mostly uses wood to achieve balance, but his experimentation with concrete eggs and clay amphorae has yielded unique results. For his Blanc de Meunier Œuf, the cuvée is vinified and aged in an egg-shaped vat made of clay and concrete, allowing the yeast to circulate and feed the wine while aging. The result is a Champagne that’s still elegant with a nice saline minerality and slight chalky mouthfeel.

“The terroir remains the same, but new growers and winemakers are finding new ways of growing the grapes—and new ways of vinification to enlighten the terroirs,” says Fanny, who also owns Paris Champagne boutique, Dilettantes Cave à Champagne. “The new types of wines are unlimited.”

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New Champagne for a New Consumer

While the new generation running these storied houses is excited to test new ways of doing things and put their stamp on their family businesses, a new wave of curious consumers is giving them the space to do so. Julie Voirin, a fifth-generation Champagne producer at Champagne Voirin Jumel, who works alongside her sister, Pauline, and father, Patrick, has noticed that more wine and Champagne drinkers want to know the story behind the bottle.

“Now, Champagne is beginning to be perceived as a wine and consumers take the time to know the philosophy of the producer,” she says. “They want to know all of the details: The grape variety, the appellation, the aging time.” 

portrait of Julie Voirin
Image Courtesy of Champagne Voirin Jumel

Voirin notes this shift in Champagne culture, saying that new attitudes are driving change. “We no longer make Champagne to please everyone, but instead we let nature express itself, and each producer finds their style, their expression, their signature,” she says. “We are getting more and more out of the classics, the methods are changing—the consumption, too.” 

It’s not just smaller grower-producers changing things up. Large established brands, like Nicolas Feuillatte, are also attempting to highlight the beverage in different and more democratic ways. 

“While Champagne has strict rules, the consumer still wants to seek out newness,” says Roffiaen. “The great regularity of our cuvées is a reassuring point, [however] our clients are also keen to have new experiences, to make them vibrate.” 

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Though its methods of production have remained the same, the brand has been offering new experiences for customers, such as its recently debuted interactive educational space, Boutique Nicolas Feuillatte, in Paris’s’ 8th arrondissement. At its striking new visitor center in the heart of Côte des Blancs, guests can opt to take a tour and view the working robotic machines, which bottle around 20,000 bottles per hour, or take an educational blind tasting course. 

“One of our greatest challenges is to offer Champagne lovers new and original experiences, while always obeying and staying true to our ancestral rules, and to seduce the next generation of amateurs of the wine of kings—and the king of wines,” says Roffiaen.
If you look around trendy wine bars with extensive Champagne lists, from Sacré Burger in Reims and Bar Brutal Barcelona to Coqodaq in New York City and Tabula Rasa in Los Angeles, it seems these efforts have been paying off. This latest crop of producers have brought Champagne into its drink whenever, wherever era—something many consumers are clearly ready to get behind.

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7 Bordeaux Hotels, Chateaux and More to Book Right Now https://www.wineenthusiast.com/culture/travel/bordeaux-hotels/ Wed, 21 Feb 2024 18:27:07 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/?p=168733 From city getaways to vine-filled countryside spots, these expert-approved hotels, chateaux and bed-and-breakfasts are ideally suited for oenophiles. [...]

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Wine may not be the only attraction in beautiful Bordeaux, but with nearly 7,000 wineries in the region, it’s certainly the most prominent. If you’re planning a wine-focused pilgrimage to La Belle Endormie—which in French translates to “The Sleeping Beauty”—it makes sense to spend your nights in on-theme accommodations.

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Whether you prefer to stay in the heart of the city or would rather escape to the vine-filled countryside, here are seven expert-approved hotels, chateaux and bed-and-breakfasts (or chambres d’hôtes, as the French say) ideally suited for oenophiles.

Mondrian Bordeaux Hôtel des Carmes
Image Courtesy of Mondrian Bordeaux Hôtel des Carmes

Mondrian Bordeaux Les Carmes

Though it’s a recent addition to Bordeaux’s hotel scene, the Mondrian Bordeaux Les Carmes is housed in the former wine cellars of the prestigious Maison Calvet, which date back to the 19th century. Open since November of 2023, the Philippe Starck-designed property is located in the city’s village-like Chartrons district, historically ground zero for Bordeaux’s wine merchants.

With a modern East-meets-West aesthetic, the hotel has 97 rooms and suites spread over three floors. There’s also a Japanese restaurant and bar with an expansive wine list. “It has the same owner as Château Carmes Haut-Brion,” says Jane Anson, author of Inside Bordeaux, referencing the only winery located within the city limits of Bordeaux. “So, it has a good wine selection—with plenty of vintages of Carmes Haut-Brion, but also wider references from across Bordeaux.”

Nearby attractions include The Musée du Vin et du Négoce, focused on the history of wine and trade in the city, and La Cité du Vin, Bordeaux’s world-renowned wine museum.

Le Boutique Hotel & Spa
Image Courtesy of Le Boutique Hotel & Spa

Le Boutique Hotel & Spa

From the moment guests walk through the doors of the five-star Le Boutique Hotel & Spa, it’s clear that this place is fueled by wine. New arrivals are whisked away to the on-site wine bar for a welcoming wine experience. The lush interior courtyard surrounding the wine bar is planted with grape varieties from throughout the Bordeaux region, and the hotel’s sommelier offers personalized tasting workshops on the wines and terroir of Bordeaux. At the bar, there’s a simple menu of cheese, charcuterie and a few tapas to pair with the wine.

Local tour guide and wine expert Sarah Seguret regularly recommends Le Boutique Hotel to her clients, many of whom are wine tourists from the U.S. “It’s right in the city center, and its guest wine bar is really good,” she says.

Located in the upscale Triangle d’Or district, Le Boutique Hotel is housed in a sprawling neo-Renaissance mansion. While the façade has changed little since the 18th century, the inside has been transformed into a modern, luxurious design hotel furnished with comfortably contemporary decor. There are 29 rooms and suites of various sizes and styles; all are named for a different Bordeaux wine chateau. We recommend asking for one with a whirlpool bathtub and a view of the quiet courtyard. There’s also a small plunge pool, sauna and hammam for recharging after a day of vineyard-hopping.

Hôtel de Sèze
Image Courtesy of Hôtel de Sèze

Hôtel de Sèze

Facing the tree-lined Allées de Tourny in the Triangle d’Or district, Hôtel de Sèze counts its location as one of its primary draws. “It’s very central—and right beside the great wine bar of the CIVB,” Seguret notes, referencing Le Bar à Vin, the headquarters of the Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins de Bordeaux. “It’s perfect if you want a more intimate option than a grand hotel.”

Janice Brooks Faugas, an Alabama-born wine educator and tour guide based in Bordeaux, is also a big fan of the hotel. “[They have] good service, and their restaurant is an excellent value, especially at lunch,” she says. “They also have a spa, and a cigar room, and their own golf course just outside of town for guests. You can privatize the golf course for a garden party if you like. They are also happy to organize excursions into the vineyards for guests.”

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The building dates back to the 1700s, and the hotel’s interiors pay homage to its past while still feeling fresh and occasionally fanciful. The 54 guest rooms and four suites seamlessly balance old and new, with elegant period features offset by bold wallpaper, sumptuous fabrics and statement lighting.

Hôtel de Sèze has several on-site bars and lounges where guests can sip Bordeaux wines and try local brandies like Cognac or Armagnac from just up north. The English-style Salon des Illustres, with its roaring fireplace, velvet sofa and stacks of books, is an especially inviting spot to settle in with a glass of wine. Meanwhile, the on-site restaurant, Comptoir de Sèze, serves classic French fare for breakfast, lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch.

Maison La Course
Image Courtesy of Robin Danos

Maison La Course

This 19th-century Haussmanian hôtel particulier in Bordeaux’s leafy Jardin Public neighborhood feels like an elegant secret hideaway in the heart of the city. With only five guest rooms, the vibe is intimate and serene. “It’s a great home away from home with its own wine cellar,” says local wine tour guide Nicolle Croft. “It is very friendly.”

Big, fluffy beds and soaking tubs stand ready to welcome guests, while each room and suite has its own style—from the beachy, zen Oyat to the butterfly-filled Lassaia. The Orensio family suite invites little guests to sleep in beds inspired by boat cabins, but our personal favorite is the third-floor Seiros, which boasts a rooftop terrace with a private plunge pool.

The wine cellar—or cave (pronounced “kahv”)—is a warm, cozy retreat where guests can sample a curated selection of wines from around the region. Expert-led wine tastings and workshops are held regularly. Guests can even book private tours of the Grands Crus Classés estates, choosing between the vineyards of Saint-Émilion, Médoc or Pessac-Léognan. Tours include visits to three Grand Cru Classé châteaux and lunch.

Château Le Pape
Image Courtesy of Vinexia

Château Le Pape

Just 15 kilometers from the city center in Léognan, Château Le Pape has five discrete guest rooms surrounded by nine hectares of vines. Croft calls it the best discovery she’s made this year. “It’s owned and run by the sumptuous Château Haut Bailly, five minutes away,” she says. “It has a beautiful, home-like atmosphere with a pool and gardens. You can take bikes to discover the area—Smith Haut Lafite is not far away. It’s a very classy place.”

Dating back to the 18th century, the chateau has been painstakingly restored following strict heritage conservation guidelines. The common spaces and guest rooms are traditional yet welcoming, with comfortable furniture and natural light flooding the spaces. The quiet guest rooms overlook the vines, while the peaceful terrace is the ideal place to have breakfast surrounded by nature. The lush gardens and shady infinity pool complete the tranquil country escape.

The château is located in the appellation Pessac-Léognan, on the Route des Vins de Graves et Sauternes. There’s plenty to explore in this region, starting with the neighboring Château Haut Bailly, which invites guests to visit the vineyard, vat room and spectacular architect-designed cellars.

Château Grand Barrail Hôtel
Image Courtesy of Château Grand Barrail Hôtel

Château Grand Barrail Hôtel

Just outside of Saint-Emilion, a medieval village on Bordeaux’s Right Bank renowned for its wine, Château Grand Barrail Hôtel is a five-star property built at the turn of the last century. With romantic turrets and spires decorating the facade, it looks every inch a fairy tale French chateau. The hotel offers free shuttles into the village, which is itself just a quick 30-minute train ride from Bordeaux.

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Surrounded by acres of vines and manicured gardens, the hotel has 41 rooms and five suites spread out between the chateau and adjacent buildings. The guest rooms and common spaces have a posh, contemporary feel, and there’s a heated pool, sauna and Turkish baths for a bit of pampering. The on-site restaurant serves breakfast, lunch and dinner—and, of course, an array of Bordeaux wines.

“Overlooking vineyards outside of the village, Grand Barrail has just been re-decorated—and it’s lovely,” Croft says. She recommends the nearby shop La Cave Dourthe for wine tastings and sales of great old vintages.

Les Sources de Caudalie
Image Courtesy of Tuca Reines

Les Sources de Caudalie

You’ll find this five-star hotel surrounded by the vineyards of Château Smith Haut Lafitte, a Grand Cru Classé of Graves on the outskirts of Bordeaux. Here, love of the vine meets wellness with the on-site spa’s trademarked vinotherapy tapping into the anti-aging properties of grape seeds. “A day at their spa is heaven,” Faugas says, noting that the grape pomace wrap is one of her favorites.

The spa offers numerous treatments using Caudalie’s exclusive skincare line, and guests also have access to the hammam and a natural hot water bath filled with spring water pulled from 540 meters underground.

As for wining and dining, there are four restaurants on-site, including La Grand’Vigne, which has two Michelin stars. Rouge is a more casual wine bar and gourmet grocery.

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The Best Châteauneuf-du-Pape Wine to Buy Right Now https://www.wineenthusiast.com/ratings/wine-ratings/chateauneuf-du-pape-wine/ Tue, 13 Feb 2024 19:50:55 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/?p=166554 These bottles range from the rustic and tannic bottles for which the region has long been praised to newer styles that are clean and fresh. [...]

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Châteauneuf-du-Pape, arguably one of the most acclaimed appellations in France, is also one of its oldest. The name translates to “new home of the Pope,” which dates all the way back to the early 14th century, when the village became the summer residency of the papacy under Pope John XXII.

The area’s wines, which came to be known as “Pope’s Wines,” are equally steeped in history. Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s signature blends are made from 18 approved Rhône varietals, all grown in the region’s legendary rounded stones (galets). Here, whites are far less common than their darker hued brethren, but are just as complex and worthy of time and space in the wine fridge. The appellation’s well-known reds blends, which are dominated by Grenache with Syrah and Mourvèdre, have long been known to be rustic and highly tannic—requiring years of rest to come around. Though there remain plenty of bottles made in this traditional style, a new generation of producers have been diversifying the region’s offerings with cleaner, fresher styles, as well.

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“In the past 20-plus years, the wines have become much more refined,” says Wine Enthusiast Tasting Director and Rhône reviewer Anna-Christina Cabrales. “Winemakers are finding ways to create this beautiful balance. Truly these wines are so attractive to me right now.”

Many of these bottles are ready to drink with a bit of aeration. But some Châteauneuf-du-Papes do benefit from time in the cellar. Translation: Drink some bottles now and stash some away for later.

As for what specifically to snap up? From fresh Grenache to pour at your next dinner party to traditional blends worth storing away for a special occasion in 2030 and beyond, these are the best Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines to buy right now.


Domaine de Beaurenard 2020 Le Boisrenard Red

Fresh aromas of crushed strawberries, dried cranberries, dark plums, rosehip and wild mint meld beautifully in the glass. Its acidity strikes brilliantly against a palate of black cherries, blueberries, blood orange, wild thyme, clove and pulverized green peppercorn. Rustic tannins envelop the palate and yield a long and intense saline finish. Cellaring through 2030+ should yield stunning complexities. Cellar Selection. 96 Points — Anna-Christina Cabrales

$ Varies Morell Wine

Domaine Chante Cigale 2020 Vieilles Vignes

Profuse deep blackberry aromas, along with cassis, black olives and wild mint sit atop fresh potting soil. The palate is coated with fine youthful tannins, contributing dark and elegant bitter contrast to its fruit. This wine will display tremendous integration with bottle aging through 2035+. 96 Points — A. C.

$ Varies K&L Wines

André Brunel 2020 Les Cailloux Red (Châteauneuf-du-Pape)

Crisp red apples, rhubarb, red cherries, picked rosemary stems, black olives and warm stones invigorate the senses. The palate is round and generous with concentrated cherry notes, supported by clove and black peppercorn on the finish. Cellar well through 2040+. Cellar Selection. 96 Points  — Anna-Christina Cabrales

$70 Wine.com

Domaine Santa Duc 2020 Le Pied De Baud

Pure, concentrated flavors of black olives, dried herbs and blackberries amid an intensely floral and smoky aromatic core. Opulent on the palate, with added layers of violets, tea and flint. While approachable now with a proper decant, its intense drying tannins hint at cellaring well through 2030+ before revisiting, which should result in remarkable integration and greater complexity. 96 Points A.C.

$ Varies The Cellar D’Or

Tardieu-Laurent 2020 Galets d’Or

High aromatic complexity in this stunning presentation of black cherries, fresh cranberries, rhubarb, wild strawberries, plums, wild thyme and earth. The palate is deep and brooding, with black fruit penetrating through its stone layer. Persistent youthful tannins and a rush of acidity demonstrate its tremendous capacity for cellar well through 2035+. 96 Points — A.C.

$45 ABC Fine Wine & Spirits

Clos Bellane 2018 Urgonien

This sophisticated expression is compelling now with each sip. Dark fruits like blackberries, blueberries and herbal tones fuel the nose, while stewed mulberries and raspberries coat the palate. Mouthquenching acidity and rustic tannins draw out a long, velvety and seductive finish. Editor’s Choice. 95 Points — A.C.

$55 Wine Chateau

Domaine de la Mordorée 2020 La Dame Voyageuse

This full-bodied wine has a decadent nose of black plum, red cherry, rhubarb, licorice, rose potpourri, cinnamon, clove and freshly turned earth. The palate is structured with concentrated black plum and black licorice up front, followed by a midpalate of warm baking spices, earth and a green peppercorn finish. Its velvety texture and ripe-fruit profile make this bottling easy to enjoy now. 94 Points — A. C.

$ Varies Wine.com

M. Chapoutier 2019 La Bernardine

A bold and opulent profile of black and blue fruits, cherries, plum, flint and garrigue sits with dormant energy, wanting to explode in the glass. Its drying tannins are balanced by ample refreshing acidity, cellar through 2030+ before revisiting should result in remarkable integration and greater complexity. 94 Points — A.C.

$ Varies WineMadeEasy.com

Château La Nerthe 2019 Cuvée des Cadettes

A complete expression from 80-year-old vines in this focused GSM blend. Its purity is reminiscent of a perfect brunch experience, but in a glass. Red and black berry jam with fine barrel spices seduces the nose and palate, and demonstrates its aging potential for years to come. Easily cellar well through 2035. Cellar Selection. 94 Points — A.C.

$ Varies Maison Mura

Clos du Mont-Olivet 2020 La Cuvée du Papet

Fragrant wafts of thyme immediately greet the nose, followed by a layer of fresh black and red cherries, eucalyptus and violets. The palate presents concentrated dark round fruit, lifted by high tones of fresh apple and white tea leaf. Its youthful tannins suggests cellaring well through 2028. 94 Points — A.C.

$ Varies Wine Library

Domaine de la Solitude 2021 White

Profuse aromas of yuzu, lime, Meyer lemon and acacia lead to lemon pith and macadamia on the nose. The palate is treated to lemon skins tangled with fresh hay and stone. This rich and textured wine will benefit from cellaring well through 2030+. 93 Points — A.C.

$ Varies Wine.com

Domaine Chante Cigale 2020 Pi Grenache

The freshness and verve are immediate, along with harmonious aromas of bramble, rose petals, white peppercorn and warm baking spices melding in the glass. The palate is abundantly dark and juicy with round drying tannins that remain long on the palate. An incredible wine. 95 Points— A.C.

$ Varies The Underground Bottle Shop

Domaine Pierre Usseglio et Fils 2020 Réserve Des 2 Frères Red

Vibrant aromas of black cherries, wild strawberries, cassis, fresh mint and rosemary linger on the nose. Cedarwood and thyme notes emerge with further aeration. The palate is juicy with lush waves of blackberries, blueberries, light baking spice and clove. Rustic tannins frame the fruit beautifully and should further integrate from additional cellaring well through 2035+. Cellar Selection. 95 Points — A.C.

$129 Empire State of Wine

Domaine la Boutinière 2020 Red

High-toned red fruit aromas immediately take center stage, while rosehip, violets, mint leaves, brown button mushroom, coriander, earth and clove add depth. The palate is a bit austere, yet offers fine tannins that seem to be integrating well. Greater layers of complexities should unfold after cellaring well through 2035+. 93 Points — A.C.

$ Varies Vin Porter

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