Except when it comes to Cayuga.

“Cayuga is an uber-useful blender and it’s beloved of both grape growers and winemakers,” says Peter Bell, who was the winemaker at Fox Run Vineyards in New York’s Finger Lakes for 27 years, where he made cases and cases and cases (and cases!) of the winery’s Arctic Fox, a semisweet varietal Cayuga. “Cayuga needs little in the way of winemaker elaboration. I love pouring it for people who gravitate to Pinot Grigio, since it has that broad appeal—but way more personality.”

Cayuga, or Cayuga White as it’s sometimes called, is a white Cornell hybrid developed in upstate New York by university researchers in the 1940s but wasn’t released commercially until a couple of decades later. Its history is long and complicated, dating to the mid19th century, when a table grape called Winchell was identified in Vermont. Winchell was later crossed with a grape called Moore’s Diamond (which was itself a Concord cross) and a couple of crosses later, Cayuga showed up. All told, Cayuga’s forebears include native Vitis labrusca varieties, French-American hybrids and even Vitis vinifera.

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As such, says Bell, who now works as a consulting winemaker in the northeast, Cayuga forms the basis of a great many proprietary whites in the Finger Lakes. Winemakers like it because it offers high yields, as much as 200 gallons per ton (some 10 to 15% more than typical). It ripens early, around mid-September, and can be picked at sugar levels as low as 15 or 16 Brix—an amazingly low number for a wine grape. Best yet, says Bell, that’s the level when Cayuga’s flavors are at their peak.

So why isn’t Cayuga more popular? Its geography limits its appeal, given that New York wines are mostly distributed only in New York (though, Bell says the grape is likely to crop up in other cool climates in North America). For another, it bears the stigma of wine made mostly with grapes that aren’t European—too smelly, too sweet and not “real.”

But that’s hardly the case with Cayuga. “We were having a fairly elaborate dinner at Fox Run a few years ago, and before the event we had to find a wine to match with each of the six courses,” recalls Bell. “One course was a cabbage slaw with a few exotic things in it. My standard recommendation for a salad is no wine, but on a lark, we tried it with Arctic Fox. To this day, that pairing has been one of the most successful ever. At the dinner, we were thrilled to be able to tell this story.”

Quick Facts

• Grape: Cold-hardy white that ripens early, with large, thick-skinned and juicy berries
• Cross of: Seyval Blanc, a Franco-American hybrid, and Schuyler, a North American hybrid
• Where Grown: Primarily New York state and the U.S. Northeast
• Wine Styles: White blends, single varietal and sparkling wines, with a range of sweetness levels
• Aromas/Flavors: Honeydew melon, lime juice, tropical fruit
• Food Pairing: Salads and shellfish
• Fun Fact: One of its grandparents is Zinfandel, which was crossed with Ontario, a North American hybrid, to produce Schuyler

This article originally appeared in the May 2024 of Wine Enthusiast magazine.

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Since the start of the year, Wine Enthusiasts expert tasters have sampled nearly 2,400 bottles from Napa and Sonoma to Lodi, Santa Barbara and beyond. As usual, they’ve been blown away by the quality and diversity of options on the market.

“The state of wine in California is in a rebirth period,” says Writer-at-Large Tonya Pitts, Wine Enthusiast’s Northern California and California AVA reviewer. “There are so many options for the wine drinker to drink and discover. Frankly, it reminds me of 30-plus years ago, when experimentation was happening with small wineries. We see this same cycle happening again—the curiosity of what else can be grown and nurtured in the landscape we call California.”

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As Pitts puts it, the state is still like a metaphor for the broader U.S., “a melting pot of grape varietals, both classic and nouveau,” she says. This includes everything from Napa’s world-famous Cabs, new-to-the-New-World varietals that are well-suited to a changing climate and a revival of vines and grapes that arrived in the state with settlers, in some cases dating back to the Conquistadors.

While these wide-ranging options are wonderful and exciting, it also makes it harder to decide on the bottle at the shop. But that’s where we come in. From traditional Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay to vibrant Pinot Noir and old-vine Zinfandel, these are the best California wines to drink right now.

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Pennyroyal Farm 2022 Hammer Olsen Vineyard Chardonnay (Anderson Valley)

This wine delivers vivacious stone fruit, lemon, white flowers and fresh rosemary along with super-balanced acid, mineral and earth. This is the beginning of a long-lasting relationship. You are going to want climb on board for this one? Hold or drink until 2033. Cellar Selection. 94 Points — Tonya Pitts

$35 Pennyroyal Farm

Grayson 2022 Lot 10 Cabernet Sauvignon (California)

Produced from small lots from around California, this wine offers notes of dried rose petals, potpourri and plums. These flavors give way to watermelon and round out to hot-tamale candy and a dry finish. The wine would pair nicely with braised meats. Best Buy. 92 Points— T.P.

$12 Yianni’s

Obsidian Wine Co. 2021 Volcanic Estate Obsidian Ridge Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Hills)

This wine is deep purple with aromas of unripe blackberry, blueberry, olallieberry, fresh bay leaf, vanilla scented potpourri. The midpalate is black olive, green olive, rosemary, orange zest, transmitting into ripe black fruit, dried tobacco leaves and salted truffle chocolate. 94 Points — T.P.

$40 Obsidian Wine Co.

Domenica Amato 2021 Estate Grenache (Dry Creek Valley)

Bright cherry and berry aromas erupt from the glass of this wine. Generous citrusy acidity brings the cherry compote, cinnamon and brown-sugar flavors into focus on the palate. This feels like a distinctly California version of Grenache, with generous texture from some whole-cluster inclusion. 93 Points —Tom Capo

$49 Emmitt-Scorsone Winegrowers

EnRoute 2022 Les Pommiers Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley)

Vibrant ruby in color, this wine erupts from the glass with aromas of sweet cinnamon, cola and cherry. There is a charming delicacy here, with flavors of dried rose petal, cherry and berry pie filling on a midweight palate. A captivating dance between the snappy tannin structure and the lively acidity of this wine lead to a very pleasurable finish. 93 Points — T.C.

$60 EnRoute

Angels & Cowboys 2023 Rosé (Sonoma County)

The color of this rosé is pale peach, verging on rose gold. Striking aromas of fresh cherry and limeade dominate the nose. The palate shows varied flavors including watermelon, strawberry and lemon-lime in a lively, acidic framework. Best Buy. 90 Points — T.C. 

$16 Wine.com

RZN 2022 The Love Letters Issue Nolan Ranch Vineyard Clairette Blanche (Santa Barbara County)

This is one of the more exciting white wines of late, and possibly the best stab at Clairette Blanche yet from the Central Coast. Clean aromas of nectarine, blanched almond and lemon glaze lead into a grippy palate that simmers with acidity, adding pear peel and brisk apple to the mix. Editor’s Choice. 94 Points — Matt Kettmann

$30 RZN Wines

Rhônedonnée 2021 Night Ride Syrah (Edna Valley)

This wine sports an action-packed nose, hefty, savory, dense and ripe at once. Aromas of blackened beef, turned earth, blackberry and purple flower lead from the nose into a palate that sizzles with zippy acidity, carrying blueberry, elderberry, roasted meat and desert herb flavors. 95 Points — M.K.

$60 Rhônedonnée Wines

Tread 2021 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara County)

Winemaker Kristin Bryden is proving to be a savant in the Burgundian grape game. This county cuvée is delicious from start to finish. Vibrant, fresh and juicy aromas of strawberry, Bing cherry and earthy chaparral lead from the nose into a grippy, energetic palate of red fruit and brown spices. Editor’s Choice. 95 Points — M.K.

$40 Zaca Mesa

Frog’s Leap 2021 Shale and Stone Chardonnay (Carneros-Napa Valley)

Bright acidity washes flavors of crisp apple, creamy lemon, grapefruit zest and wet stone through the mouth into an impressively long finish. This Chardonnay is as much about freshness and energy as it is purity and restraint. The use of French oak offers a touch of spice and texture for another layer of interest through the finish. 93 Points — Elaine Chukan Brown

$42 Frog’s Leap

Robert Biale 2022 Dickerson Vineyard Zinfandel (St. Helena)

Aromas of Bing cherry are greeted by flavors of mixed citrus, mint and wafts of cedar. It’s a sophisticated, detailed and intriguing wine with fine-grained tannins and a mouthwatering, long finish. Beautifully crafted and nuanced. Drink now or hold for continued aging. Cellar Selection. 96 Points — E.C.

$75 Biale.com

Truchard 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon (Carneros-Napa Valley)

Juicy, flavorful and approachable, this wine is delicious and good value. Dripping with ripe plum, freshly picked berries and just enough cocoa for additional depth, this wine is a smart choice to please everyone at a meal, including the wine aficionado. 92 Points — E.C.

$46 Wine.com

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The industry has blossomed from a dozen wineries at the turn of the century to over 80 today, according to the Maryland Wineries Association, with distinct winemakers crafting bottles that highlight a wide range of varietals. “Maryland wine feels like a kaleidoscope right now,” says Regina McCarthy, general manager of The Vineyards at Dodon in Davidsonville.

That’s partially due to Maryland’s famously diverse terrain, which has earned it the nickname “America in Miniature.” Central Maryland, with its moderate climate and lush rolling hills, has historically been the focal point for vineyards, producing Bordeaux-style red blends alongside global varietals like Albariño and Nebbiolo. It also includes Maryland’s first established AVA, Linganore. But these days, wineries are flourishing all across the state, from the balmy countryside of Southern Maryland to the cooler mountainous regions of Western Maryland and across the Chesapeake Bay on the Eastern Shore.

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Bernie Vogel, a seasoned wine professional based in Maryland, has observed the evolution firsthand over the past 35 years. “Today, we’re seeing Maryland’s ‘second generation’ of producers looking at the ‘Old World’ for regions that have similar climates and geography and doubling down on varietals that are more suited to our terroir,” he says. “The quality of the wines produced has improved significantly.”

A trip that explores Maryland’s wineries could unfold in several different ways. You could stay in an urban center like Baltimore or Annapolis, using it as a base for dining and lodging, then venture out for day trips to rural wineries. You could pick one of Maryland’s four wine regions and go deep visiting several wineries in the area. Of course, you could always take advantage of the state’s compact size and make it your mission to visit one or two wineries in all of the wine regions.

There’s no right or wrong approach. To guide you through this dynamic landscape, we consulted wine experts from across Maryland who are well-versed in the state’s wine and dining trends.

Central Maryland

Central Maryland’s Piedmont Plateau, just north of Baltimore, is home to some of the state’s oldest and finest wineries, with a long history of being a destination for wine lovers. Stretching from the rolling foothills west of Frederick to the Chesapeake Bay headwaters, the region boasts rich soil and an optimal climate that make it a premier wine-growing region.

Old Westminster Winery

The Baker siblings established this winery, situated 40 miles northwest of Baltimore in Carroll County, with the aim of preserving their family farmland. After two years of research, they planted 7,600 grapevines, including Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Chardonnay and Albariño. Offering tastings by reservation Friday through Sunday, guests can enjoy wine flights, wood-fired pizzas, and other local fare in their cozy farmhouse-style tasting room with scenic views or relax on spacious patios overlooking the vineyard.

Bernie Vogel has spotted th operation’s canned Farmer Fizz and pét-nats in restaurants and wine shops all the way up in Portland, Maine. He thinks their Chardonnay is top-notch. And as co-owner of JeannieBird Baking Company in Westminster, he stocks it in the small wine section of the shop.

“Far and away, Old Westminster Winery has set a new standard for the possibilities of what can be produced in Maryland,” he says. “Winemaker Lisa Hinton produces beautiful whites and red ‘vin de garde,’ as well as carved out a national reputation in the natural wine community.”

Black Ankle Vineyards

Since 2008, founders Ed Boyce and Sarah O’Herron have created estate-grown wines in Mt. Airy with the guidance of consulting Bordelais winemaker Lucien Guillemet. Selections include Gruner Veltliner, Chardonnay, Syrah and Bordeaux-style red blends. Open daily, their tasting room, which boasts magnificent views from its partially covered vineyard-facing patio, offers wines by the flight, bottle, carafe and glass, along with prepackaged local fare including cheese and charcuterie.

Guided tastings are $26, and vineyard tours are available on select days by request. Weekends often feature food trucks, spanning from brunch to tacos and barbecue, all paired with live music.

Elk Run Vineyard and Winery

Also in Mt. Airy, Elk Run Vineyards, founded in 1979, is nestled in a bucolic pastoral setting framed by dairy farms and fields of wheat and corn. It produces a wide range of grapes from Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon to Gewürztraminer and Petit Verdot. The winery, named after a nearby stream, was Maryland’s first all-vinifera vineyard.

Visitors can enjoy wine flights on the scenic grounds, which are dotted with picnic tables (outside food is welcome) and peppered with the sound of seasonal live music during the warmer months. Tastings of six wines are $20, with free tours on weekends. Local musicians perform on weekends from May to October.

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Boordy Vineyards

This vineyard in Baltimore County, established in 1945, lays claim to the title of Maryland’s oldest winery. Under the Deford family’s guidance since 1980, the winery spans two vineyards across distinct Maryland microclimates. Long Green Vineyard, in the Piedmont Plateau, yields Sauvignon Blanc and light reds, while South Mountain Vineyard, in the Blue Ridge Mountains, produces Cabernet Franc, Merlot and more.

Weekends feature live music, food trucks and picnic seating (guests are also welcome to bring their own food). Guided tastings start at $12 for five wines, with bottle and case purchases available at the on-site wine shop.

Linganore Winecellars

Established in 1976, Linganore Winecellars, also located in Mt. Airy, offers a diverse range of wines, including classic varietals like Chardonnay, unique sweet blends, fruit wines and an acclaimed Terrapin white blend made of hybrid Melody and Vidal Blanc grapes.

Bar tastings cost $12 and are available daily without reservations. Private tastings and tours of the idyllic property can be booked in advance. Visitors are drawn to the beautiful countryside setting that boasts a convivial atmosphere thanks to live music and food trucks every weekend. Porch, deck table and fire tables, for use all day long, can be reserved in advance.

Basignani Winery

Located north of Baltimore in Glencoe, Basignani Winery, established in 1986 by Italian immigrant Bertero Basignani, annually produces 6,500 gallons of wine. Selections span from classic Chardonnay and robust Cabernet Sauvignon blends to the popular Elena Rosé, a slightly sweet blend of Chardonnay, Riesling, Vidal and Chambourcin.

During the day, weekend wine tastings are available in the rustic, barrel-filled tasting room by appointment for $10, with walk-ins welcome as space permits. Warm weekend nights feature live music under the covered pavilion, where guests can nosh on brick-oven pizza.

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Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard

Located just 40 miles northwest of Washington, D.C., at the base of Sugarloaf Mountain, this vineyard was founded in 2006 by owner Emily Yang and winemaker Manolo Gomez. Hand-picked grapes from the 22-acre estate are transformed into Bordeaux-inspired reds and crisp whites aged in stainless-steel or French oak barrels.

Open daily for walk-ins, the compact tasting room offers tastings and flights, with free tours available by reservation. On warm weekends, visitors, enticed by food trucks and picnic-friendly policies, spill out onto the patio with views of the vineyard.

Where to Stay

Housed in a beautifully renovated 1880s mansion in the Mt. Vernon neighborhood of Baltimore, The Ivy Hotel is Maryland’s only Relais & Châteaux property. It features nine rooms and eight spacious suites, each uniquely decorated, and amenities like a gourmet breakfast and valet parking. Dine in its Robert M. Parker Wine Cellar at Magdalena restaurant, featuring small-production American wines and rare vintages from around the world.

Hotel Revival, also in Mount Vernon, is a boutique hotel brimming with personality and rooms decorated in an attractive mix of Arts and Crafts and contemporary styles. Topside, the rooftop restaurant and bar, features a seafood-heavy menu and panoramic views of Baltimore and the harbor.

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Where to Eat

Maryland wines can be hard to come by at local restaurants due to distribution challenges, but Gunther & Co. in Baltimore’s Canton neighborhood is an exception. General manager and co-owner Nancy Trice strives to create a well-rounded wine list that balances quality and value, for example suggesting patrons pair Black Ankle's Bedlam, a white blend, with the restaurant's homemade tagliatelle featuring spring vegetables.

At The Charleston on Baltimore’s waterfront, chef Cindy Wolf makes modern dishes influenced by French and Low Country traditions while wine director Tony Foreman considers the growing season and tastes of the restaurant’s clientele while curating a list of more than 700 wines.

Western Maryland

The rugged yet promising wine-growing area of Western Maryland is shaped by the erosion of alluvial soil, which is imbued with a deep and fertile richness over thousands of years by the Appalachian Mountains. Despite enduring long winters and short growing seasons, vineyards in this area flourish due to the well-drained slate-based soils and refreshing cool breezes. Several vineyards in the region focus on cultivating cold-hardy grape varieties including Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Vidal Blanc.

Big Cork Vineyards

Located in Rohrersville and founded in 2011 by Randy Thompson and Dave Collins, Big Cork Vineyards sprawls across 100 acres in the Blue Ridge Mountains. Cultivating 18 grape varieties, they produce over 25 estate wines, including Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc.

Visitors are welcome to explore their collection while sitting at individual tables or kicking back on the sleek white sofas in the mid-century modern tasting room. It’s open Thursday through Monday by appointment. Tastings are $20 per person, and guests can also enjoy selections from an on-site food market that sells cheeses, fresh-baked bread, charcuterie and more.

Catoctin Breeze Vineyard

Founded by Polish immigrants Voytek and Alicia Fizyta, Catoctin Breeze Vineyard is led by Winemaker Mike Lentini and produces around 2,500 cases annually. Bottlings range from single-varietal Syrah and Teroldgego to pét-nats and red blends.

The tasting room is open Thursday through Monday with first-come, first-served seating for groups of up to six. The Vigneron's Choice Tasting for $24 includes six wines—make sure to sample the Cabernet Franc. On weekends, enjoy local food trucks and charcuterie sourced from nearby and feel free to bring your own food for a picnic outside.

Where to Stay

Antrim 1844 on a 24-acre estate in Taneytown offers convenient access to wineries in both central and western Maryland and boasts the area's largest wine program. The historic inn, meticulously restored to its 1844 grandeur by owners Richard and Dorothy Mollette, features one of the East Coast's largest wine cellars with over 15,000 bottles. At The Smokehouse, indulge in a unique six-course prix-fixe dinner, enhanced with a curated selection of wines available at an extra charge.

If it’s convenience you’re after, consider Turf Valley Resort, which is spread across 1,000 acres in Ellicott City, a mere 20-minute drive east from Mt. Airy via I-70. In addition to a range of stylish guest rooms and suites, you’ll find tons of amenities like a spa, pools, tennis and pickleball courts and two championship golf courses.

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Where to Eat

Bernie Vogel praises The Tasting Room in Frederick for its dynamic wine program. Located in the city’s historic district, the restaurant’s floor-to-ceiling windows offer panoramic views of Market St. Its innovative cuisine that emphasizes fresh, local ingredients has earned it regional acclaim.

For a more relaxed meal, consider Thacher & Rye, where acclaimed chef Bryan Voltaggio's regional Mid-Atlantic cuisine is prepared with seasonal, local ingredients in a refined yet relaxed atmosphere. Think Virginia cured ham with cornbread and chili pepper-cultured butter and smoked short ribs with celery root and green peppercorn jus.

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Southern Maryland

Southern Maryland's wineries embrace the area's farming roots and growing renown as a wine destination. As one of the state's oldest and most historic areas, former tobacco fields have transformed into vineyards, with rustic barns serving as inviting tasting rooms at numerous spots. This shift is also making wine tastings and culinary adventures more easily accessible from nearby cities, with some of these wineries located just over an hour from Baltimore and Washington, D.C.

Robin Hill Farm and Vineyards

Family-owned since 1955, find Robin Hill Farm and Vineyards in Prince George’s County, just 25 minutes from Washington, D.C. With a view of red barns and rolling hills, the farm offers estate-grown wines from six varietals planted across five acres. Producing 1,500 cases yearly, the Watson family ferment, age and bottle wines on-site, occasionally sourcing grapes from other Maryland vineyards. Their renovated tobacco barn-turned-winery and tasting room exude warmth and history, providing a bucolic setting to savor wines like the Pi'Goat Blanc, a sweet rosé made of Chambourcin and Vidal Blanc with notes of strawberries and cherries.

Running Hare Vineyard

The tasting room at this vineyard in Calvert County, set on 291 acres of former tobacco field, is open Thursday through Sunday, offering live music and a festive atmosphere on weekends. Try their wine flights with four samples, such as oak-aged Chambourcin, or indulge in refreshing wine slushies on sunny days. Grab a seat at one of the patio tables in the adjacent barn-like biergarten, and sip on local brews or signature wines while savoring wood-fired pizzas from Pizza Di Vigna.

Port of Leonardtown Winery

As a cooperative winery, Port of Leonardtown brings together 12 member vineyards across St. Marys, Charles, Calvert and Kent counties. Gather around the curved bar for a glass of rosé at this cozy and unassuming tasting room located in a historic building at the Port of Leonardtown Public Park. On warm weekends, the grounds outside are transformed into a festive lawn-party atmosphere with live music, food trucks and wine slushies.

The Vineyards at Dodon

Polly Pittman and Tom Croghan, the winemaker, lead four generations of family tradition here. Flagship varieties are Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot, with Oronoco, a rich blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot standing out as Pittman’s personal favorite.

Visitors to the vineyard experience the family's hospitality in a space reflecting their tastes—simple yet refined, modern yet pastoral. Tastings and tours are available on weekends by appointment only. The most casual and flexible option is the self-guided flight, which includes pours of four Dodon-series wines. Guests can also order wine cocktails, wines by glass, cheese and charcuterie from a menu during the visit. The whole goal of the place is to encourage visitors to relax.

Where to Stay

Located just steps from downtown Annapolis, 134 Prince offers expansive common areas, lush gardens and lavish guest rooms set inside an 1849 Dutch Colonial. And in the Eastport neighborhood, the Inn at Horn Point offers peaceful nights in modern rooms, with amenities like free parking and E.V. charging. For a rural getaway, Susannah's Watch, a historic manor on the Dixon Family Farm, offers a unique riverside bed-and-breakfast experience in St. Mary’s County.

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Where to Eat

Housed inside a former bungalow home in the Eastport neighborhood, Vin 909, a cozy "winecafe," is renowned for its brick-oven fired pizzas. Also find salads, entrees like skirt steak with a spicy Moroccan sauce and steamed littleneck clams, as well as wines available by the bottle or glass. The ingredients found in their dishes are sourced from local, organic and sustainable providers whenever possible.

Preserve, a casual New American restaurant eatery near Main Street in Annapolis, offers a unique selection of dishes featuring canned, pickled and fermented ingredients. Husband-and-wife team Jeremy and Michelle Hoffman have also recently expanded to Severna Park in Roanoke County with Garten, a natural wine and beer garden showcasing local favorites. “Not only do they have a really fun food program and wine program, but they also have a great retail section of the restaurant where you can go and buy bottles to take home with you,” says McCarthy. “And they've also been very supportive of the local industry.”

Eastern Shore

On the east side of the Chesapeake Bay, the Eastern Shore boasts fertile soil and a mild climate perfect for growing grapes. Explore this region’s refreshing sea breezes and stunning views, paired with the authentic flavors of Maryland through locally-sourced seafood.

Blue Elk Vineyard

Blue Elk Vineyard, perched on the shores of the Elk River, has 14 acres of hillside vineyards. Founded in 2020 on the historic grounds of Bohemia Overlook, the winery resides in a meticulously restored horse barn that dates back to the 1930s. The wood-covered tasting room, once horse stables, offers private experiences Thursday through Sunday. Guests can order flights, glasses, bottles and wine and cider cocktails like their signature apple cider mimosa while digging into charcuterie boards and rotating specials like flatbreads and salads.

Crow Vineyard

Crow Vineyard & Winery, located just minutes from historic Chestertown and Chesapeake City, celebrates three generations of farming heritage on its expansive 365-acre estate.Transitioning from beef and grain to grape cultivation in 2010, owners Roy and Judy Crow have produced Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot and Barbera. With a homey tasting room open daily from 12 to 5 p.m., guests can choose between the spacious Hay Barn or intimate Milk House for a flight and light, local fare.

Where to Stay

Crow Vineyard also invites guests to experience their Farmstay B&B in a newly renovated, energy-efficient 1847 farmhouse. Moving southward, plenty of quality accommodations can be found in St. Michaels, an idyllic Victorian resort town along the Chesapeake Bay. Great options include the nautical-themed Inn at Perry Cabin, plus the chic The Wildset Hotel, which incorporates the town's former 1830s schoolhouse.

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Where to Eat

Inside the Wildest Hotel, Ruse offers a seafood-focused dining experience with an eclectic wine list featuring selections from around the world. "I just want to always offer up new, fun and exciting bottles and grapes that people haven't tried," says Food and Beverage Director Allie Ballin. "It's always kind of my mission to expose people to new stuff."

Just 15 minutes away in the town of Easton, Bluepoint Hospitality Group has transformed the town with cosmopolitan restaurants and shops. Bas Rouge offers Viennese fine dining, and the vast wine list reflects that with its extensive Austrian and German selections in addition to American and French wines. The selection at the Wardroom, Bluepoint's epicurean market, is more of a "full spectrum," says Wine and Beverage Director Natalie Tapken. It offers various wines, including Spanish, Italian, American, German, Austrian, French and Greek selections.

The group also has a winery in the works. With the help of notable Napa-based winemaker Helen Keplinger, they’ve planted grapes at their own winery just outside Eaton and are awaiting their first vintage.

The post The Best Wineries (and More) to Visit in Maryland Right Now appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

Aellen and his family were instrumental in forming Maryland’s first American Viticultural Area (AVA). But even before that, Maryland had a long history of grape growing and winemaking.

“The first mention of winemaking in Maryland dates back to 1648, to a Frenchman named Tenis Palee,” writes Regina McCarthy in Maryland Wine: A Full-Bodied History.

Aellen’s family got their winery license in 1976. And then, he says, “in the late ’70s, the federal government, in its infinite wisdom, said that if you were going to put ‘estate bottled’ and a ‘vintage date’ on your label, you needed to be in an approved AVA.” So Aellen got to work, surveying the land, collecting soil samples and choosing the name Linganore, an Algonquian word that, according to Aellen, means “copiously flowing in the springtime.” It took some time, but in 1983, Linganore finally received its AVA designation.

An influx of other growers and producers soon followed.

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“My grandfather was a mead maker and Holocaust survivor,” says Rachel Lipman, winemaker and director of operations of Loew Vineyards. “When he came here, and saw other wineries finding success in this region, I think he thought, ‘Well, if they can do it so can I.’” Their winery was established in 1982.

Fast forward to today, and the Linganore AVA is now home to six wineries, all of which are within about a five-mile radius of each other. Along with that growth, there’s also been a shift in planted varieties.

“Maryland used to be more hybrid-focused,” says Janna Howley, executive director of the Maryland Wineries Association. “For a long time Chambourcin and Vidal Blanc were the two workhorse grapes in Maryland. We still see them, but there’s been a rise of Vitis vinifera over the past couple of decades.” Cabernet Franc has become one of Linganore’s most prominent reds, along with one white you may not expect.

“Albariño has become kind of a rock star,” says Howley. Chardonnay, Saperavi, Barbera, Petit Verdot and Pinot Gris are a few other common plantings.

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The topography of the Linganore, Aellen explains, is basically within a 90-square-mile drainage basin or watershed located on the Piedmont Plateau, which runs from New Jersey to Alabama, separating the Appalachian mountains and coastal plains. Soils are predominantly gravel and loam on shale bedrock, allowing for good drainage; the climate is notably cooler and drier than other coastal AVAs.

While many producers don’t use the AVA on their labels, Sarah O’Herron, coproprietor of Black Ankle Vineyards, notes that “there’s been a big shift in both consumers and producers taking the industry more seriously.”

“The quality has gone up in the last 50 years,” adds Aellen. “And that’s the really nice thing about having other wineries around. They’ll take the same varieties you’ve been working with, and they’ll produce a better product. And you’ll say, ‘Oh wow, I really like that, how do I do that?’ And it just pulls everyone up.”

Quick Facts

• Total Size/Acreage: 90 square miles
• Total Vine Acreage: 180+ acres
• Number of Wineries: 6
• Most Planted Red Wine Grape: Cabernet Franc
• Most Planted White Wine Grape: Chardonnay and Albariño

This article originally appeared in the May 2024 of Wine Enthusiast magazine.

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Despite failed attempts in the 17th century at planting European vines in what is today Manhattan’s Bowery neighborhood, by 1800, Flushing, Queens became—and remained for more than seven decades—the site of America’s most important nursery. The Prince Family Nurseries introduced more than 200 grape varieties to America and standardized the name and use of established varieties, a legacy that lives on today.

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“For the entire 19th century, the City of New York hosted at least a dozen horticulturalists of national stature who founded botanic gardens that specialized in grape culture and the making of wine,” says J. Stephen Casscles, grape historian and author of Grapes of the Hudson Valley. “These NYC-based horticulturalists disseminated hundreds of different wine grape varieties to budding viticulturists around the nation and taught them how to grow grapes and make wine.”

Fast forward to the late 19th century when a significant jump in Italian and Jewish immigration brought new wine traditions to NYC and wine was made in tenements and back gardens. Manischewitz, the famed (or infamous) sweet kosher wine, was made in Brooklyn from 1939 until the mid-1980s.

And the past two decades have ushered in a modern iteration of city winemaking, one that includes a dollop of wine tourism: the urban winery.

City Winery, which began on Chelsea Pier in Manhattan’s Meatpacking district in 2008 and has expanded to 13 venues in nine American cities, combines music, food and wine for immersive experiences that afford city dwellers the chance to taste beside shiny steel tanks of fermenting grape juice without ever having to leave NY’s concrete confines. Similarly, Brooklyn Winery, founded in 2010 in Williamsburg, offers tastings, tours and upscale comfort food in its recently expanded wine bar. Both establishments source grapes from both East and West Coast wine regions as well as Argentina (in City Winery’s case).

Other urban wineries are more locally focused. Red Hook Winery, also founded in 2008, works only with grapes grown within New York State. Perched at the edge of Pier 41, with dramatic views of the Statue of Liberty, its exposed location earned it the unfortunate distinction of being the only winery in the state to withstand extreme damage from Hurricane Sandy in 2012. It rebuilt bigger and better, and today Red Hook offers tastings and a retail shop within its industrial brick-and-steel complex. As if its location weren’t unique enough, the winery boasts not one but three highly experienced (if, stylistically, polar opposite) winemakers— Christopher Nicolson with California stalwarts Abe Schoener and Bob Foley—who craft a dizzying array of individually made regional and site-specific wines.

There’s one urban winery that takes the locavore concept a step further. In 2016, Rooftop Reds became NYC’s first winery to grow its own grapes on—you guessed it—the rooftop of an industrial complex within the Brooklyn Navy Yard. The “heat island effect” experienced on the 14,800-square-foot roof makes it the warmest vineyard in New York State, allowing Bordeaux varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to ripen easily. To founder Devin Shomaker, planting vines on a rooftop in Brooklyn was a no-brainer.

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“Why should we not explore new areas to propagate grapevines, especially when woody perennials (aka grapevines) carbon sequester so brilliantly, and the maritime climate of NYC allows for a wonderful growing season?” he asks.

Rooftop Reds is open to visitors in the warmer months, between April and October. Guests to the roof can sip the fermented juice of grapes grown on vines just beside their tables and hammocks— along with wine from Rooftop’s Finger Lakes partner winery, Point of the Bluff—while gazing past the vines at a cityscape of skyscrapers and whizzing trains.

This article originally appeared in the May 2024 of Wine Enthusiast magazine. Click here to subscribe today!

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Today, the number of Big Apple distilleries has increased—and the quality of what they’re making has improved, too. The spirit you’re most likely to see? Whiskey.

“New York’s distilling scene was one of the first to flourish, because the government paved the way for it in the 2000s,” Clark explains. In 2007, New York State’s Farm Distillery Act made it much easier to establish a distillery and sell directly to consumers at on-site tasting rooms. As a result, some distilleries have been around for more than a decade, giving distillers time to hone their craft and aged spirits, like whiskey, ample time to mature. Kings County Distillery, for example, opened in 2010; New York Distilling Company in 2011; and Van Brunt Stillhouse in 2012.

“I guarantee, you can find whiskey in New York as good as any place in America—and that includes Kentucky,” Clark says. “That wasn’t true 10 years ago.”

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The distilleries listed below offer bar spaces, where visitors can relax and enjoy a straight pour or a cocktail, and bottle shops, some with distillery exclusives. Further, most focus on products made with ingredients grown in New York State, a requirement for those with farm distillery licenses, which includes many New York City craft distilleries.

A note: This is not a comprehensive list of distilleries in the five boroughs. Many are not open to the public, and others are in the process of opening. Sadly, too, some spots we might have included in previous years—including Moto Spirits and Arcane Distilling in Brooklyn and Pitorro Distillery in the Bronx—have closed. Altogether, however, this compilation is a great place to begin exploring New York City’s robust distilling scene. Save us a sip, won’t you?

Barrow’s Intense (Sunset Park, Brooklyn)

Red velvet and gold accents define the Barrow’s Intense tasting room in warehouse complex Industry City, echoing the label of the ginger liqueur made on-site, which packs a delightfully spicy bite. The sprawling, often raucous bar features a full food and drink menu and opens to the plaza outside during warmer weather, so you can enjoy a frozen Penicillin al fresco. Events are a mainstay, from karaoke nights to “ginger spice” burlesque to comedy shows.

Bitter Monk (Industry City, Brooklyn)

From the team behind Harlem’s Sugar Monk, this petite drinking den with a beautiful stained-glass back bar and tasting room opened in March 2024; an adjacent micro-distillery recently commenced operations. The Industry City space will become the new home base for the Atheras Spirits; the line of amari, herbal liqueurs and bitters was developed by co-owner Ektoras Binikos and many offerings are made with wild plants foraged by Tama Matsuoka Wong. (Of note, spirits will be infused here, but not actually distilled.) Sip elaborate drinks, like an Old Fashioned flavored with smoked pine cones, and nibble on small dishes like truffled popcorn or steamed dumplings.

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Fort Hamilton Distillery (Industry City, Brooklyn)

Whiskey is the main draw at this warehouse-like space run by Alex Clark, a veteran bar professional seeking to revive Monongahela-style rye—the first American whiskey style to gain widespread popularity stateside and abroad—for the sake of classic cocktail accuracy. However, the operation also makes bourbon, including an excellent new single-barrel offering, and a watermelon-infused gin. Visitors can order top-notch cocktails (like a lavender gins sour) at the bar and play a round of pool, or tour the space and try their hand at bottling whiskey. This spring, keep an eye out for history-minded walking tours in conjunction with Greenwood Cemetery, which will end at the distillery with a tasting. There’s no kitchen on site, but Mama Louisa’s Hero Shop will deliver to your bar stool.

Great Jones Distilling Co. (NoHo, Manhattan)

Billed as Manhattan’s first whiskey distillery since Prohibition, this is a high-end, Great Gatsby-esque experience featuring a spirits program overseen by head distiller Celina Perez, one of our Hispanic drink pros to know. Gleaming copper sculptures echo the working stills and multiple bars on-site offer whiskey flights and cocktails, like an applewood-smoked Old Fashioned. Visitors can also reserve a table at the restaurant, which hosts a jazz brunch every Sunday, or book tickets for a magic show in the glitzy Art Deco lounge (the $100 price tag includes two drinks). The whiskey is souvenir-worthy, made with grain sourced from Warwick Valley, New York.

Halftone Spirits (Gowanus, Brooklyn)

With a focus on botanical spirits—aquavit, amaro and a line of creative gins—this operation welcomes guests to a spacious, multi-level tasting room and cocktail space, which is located within Finback Brewery. Take a tour with loquacious founder and distiller Andrew Said Thomas, or settle in for a beer on draft or cocktail, like the pink-hued Magenta Spritz, a breezy libation of gin, dried raspberries, cochineal and grapefruit soda. The colorful murals are by graffiti artist Big Bear.

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Kings County Distillery (Navy Yard, Brooklyn)

Founded in 2010, Kings County is New York City’s oldest craft distillery. It specializes in a wide array of whiskeys made with New York State grains, including flavored renditions (like coffee) and a peated bourbon that’s reminiscent of Scotch. The rustic tasting room, housed within The Gatehouses, the historic entrance to the Brooklyn Navy Yard, is especially worth a visit. It’s a fine place to enjoy a tasting flight while waiting for a distillery tour or cocktail class.

New York Distilling Company (Bushwick, Brooklyn)

In February, the distillery relocated to a larger space in Brooklyn’s Bushwick neighborhood with a super-sleek bar. The flagship product is now Jaywalk Rye, which is made with Horton rye, an heirloom grain that dates back to the 17th century. Tours and tastings are expected to open to the public in mid-May.

Standard Wormwood Distillery (Industry City, Brooklyn)

For those unfamiliar, wormwood is the plant that gives herbal bitterness to absinthe, vermouth and other spirits. Standard grows theirs at a farm in Orange County, New York, and uses it to add nuanced flavor to amaro, vermouth, gin and even an agave spirit. Tours aren’t offered, but you can view the distillation equipment through a wall of windows while enjoying cocktails in the wood-paneled bar area, or take a drink out to the courtyard. Look for live music on the weekend.

Widow Jane Distillery (Red Hook, Brooklyn)

To be clear, much of the whiskey that goes into Widow Jane’s bottles is made elsewhere (Kentucky, Indiana and Tennessee), and blended and/or finished at the Brooklyn facility. Don’t let that stop you from hitting the cobblestone streets to visit the beautiful red-brick facility, where you can book tours, tastings and cocktail classes. They know how to put on a show, and the bourbon—some made with heirloom corn varieties—is well worth a pour.

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“By the bottle, it might be the best seller in our tasting room,” says Donnachadh Family Wines owner Drew Duncan, who became an early adopter when he planted own-rooted Gamay on his Sta. Rita Hills vineyard in 2016. “People don’t realize it’s just what they’re looking for until they taste it—and then the light goes on. People seem delighted by the balance, how the fruit, spice, earth and acid all come together in such an effortless way.”

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Ernst Storm makes Gamay from that property, as well as Presqu’ile Vineyard in the Santa Maria Valley, the latter of which was his first stab at the grape in 2019. “It is not as serious as Pinot Noir, so inexperienced wine drinkers tend to not be intimidated by it,” says Storm. He serves his Gamay slightly chilled as a bridge between whites and reds at his Storm Wines tasting room in Los Olivos. “They like the fact that it is more fun and approachable, easy to understand but with a lot of depth.”

In Santa Cruz, Cole Thomas of Madson Wines uses his Gamay as a “vin de soif,” aka a thirst-quencher. He started with two barrels in 2021, opting for a whole-cluster, herb-forward but bright-fruit style. “Whole-cluster Gamay doesn’t need years in the cellar to be interesting,” he says. “Our consumers are interested in lighter reds that they can bring to a BBQ or serve chilled as an afternoon aperitif.”

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Scott Caraccioli of Caraccioli Cellars, meanwhile, is finding a lot more depth to the grape, which he grafted into his family’s Escolle Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands four years ago. He’d been drinking a lot of Beaujolais and wanted to see it through a California lens. “I was not anticipating the density and complexity it would pull from the granite,” says Caraccioli of his property’s soils.

For a learning experience in his Carmel tasting room, he pours the Gamay right before the Syrah. “The geologic influence on both the Gamay and Syrah make that transition decipherable from a site perspective,” explains Caraccioli, whose customers became immediate fans. “It’s an incredibly giving wine, so it’s rewarding to see the smile after the first sip.”

Gamay can show a darker side as well. Before becoming general manager of her family’s Pellegrini Wine Company at Olivet Lane Vineyard in the Russian River Valley, Alexia Pellegrini imported wines for Beaujolais producer Maison Jean Loron, which taught her how Gamay can be handled in different ways. Finding any Gamay to buy in Sonoma was tough at first. She and her team located a stable vineyard in the Knights Valley and planted their own in 2021 and soon after grafted over 500 more vines. Then they decided to make a denser version.

“Though Gamay is typically one-half step lighter on the spectrum, our utilization of submerged cap vessels throughout fermentation leads to a richer profile,” says Pellegrini, who pours her Gamay after their Pinots in the tasting room.

That style helps with challenging pairings, says Pellegrini’s winemaker Charlie Fauroat, who likes it with savory-sweet Chinese roasted meats and tomato-based Indian curries. “While it is deep, brooding, blue fruited and bold, it also presents with soft rounded tannin structure, has the potential for remarkable aromatic prettiness and intensity,” he says. “I love what an outlier Gamay can be.”

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There’s another reason Gamay may find its way to your glass for years to come. “Climate change is a big reason I believe Gamay is here to stay,” says Chris Pittenger, co-owner and winemaker of Gros Ventre Cellars, which produces Gamay from Santa Barbara to the Sierra Foothills. “Many areas that used to be prime for Pinot Noir are simply not ideal today or won’t be in the next 20 years. Gamay has a thicker skin and can handle warmer temperatures while keeping its natural acidity.”

Replanting is already happening in these warmer spots, and there’s more Gamay on the market every year. “I believe we are in the first inning of a great baseball game,” says Pittenger. “I look forward to watching the Gamay game play out in California, Oregon and beyond.”

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“Over the past several decades, Willamette Valley has become known as one of the very best places to grow and make Pinot Noir in the U.S.,” says Jim Gordon, senior tasting editor at Wine Enthusiast. “It’s often compared to Burgundy more than to California.”

It’s also a fantastic place to visit. Wine Enthusiast’s resident Oregon wine reviewer Michael Alberty recently shared some of the best Willamette Valley wineries to pop into when he’s in the area.

As for those sticking closer to home, a great bottle of Willamette Valley Pinot Noir is a fantastic way to take your palate on a trip without ever setting foot in an airport. Whether you’re new to drinking from the region or have several bottles stashed in your cellar, here are some great picks—plus important intel about the area.

Where Is Willamette Valley?

Oregon’s largest AVA stretches over 100 miles, from the Columbia River in the north to the city of Eugene in the South. It was established in December 1983 and encompasses six smaller appellations, including Chehalem Mountains AVA, Dundee Hills AVA, McMinnville AVA, Ribbon Ridge AVA, Yamhill-Carlton District AVA and Eola-Amity Hills AVA. Today, there are more than 700 wineries in Willamette Valley.

Why Is Willamette Valley So Good for Pinot Noir?

The main reason that Willamette Valley produces such excellent Pinot Noir is the climate. The region is exposed to the Pacific Ocean and has a high latitude, helping it maintain a cooler, moderate climate compared to California’s warmer weather. The region is often compared to Burgundy, which is also well known for its Pinot Noir.

“Pinot Noir loves a cool climate,” says Gordon. Willamette Valley “doesn’t have as many hot and dry days as many parts of California. It has a colder winter. It has rainfall more like a continental climate in Burgundy, where you have some rain throughout the summer, so they don’t need irrigation as much as California usually.”

Michael Alberty, Wine Enthusiast writer at large and reviewer for Washington, Oregon and Canada, adds that the “diversity of soil types” in the large region also contributes to great wine. He agrees that climate, however, is a major influence.

“The climate is such that in many vintages, the grapes are in a race to ripen in time and that existence on the margins is what originally attracted pioneers like David Lett of the Eyrie Vineyards,” Alberty says.

“French wineries from Burgundy, including Domaine Drouhin and Louis Jadot, have invested in wineries in Willamette Valley beginning in the 80s,” adds Gordon. “So, there’s a lot of French influence now there, too.”

What Does Willamette Valley Pinot Noir Taste Like?

This can be difficult to generalize. Climates vary between appellations, plus every individual winemaker makes different choices, all of which can impact a wine’s final flavor. That said, with Willamette Valley Pinot Noir drinkers can typically expect “ripe fruit while still achieving elevated acidity,” Alberty says.

Many of these wines deliver complex flavors of fresh red fruits, oak and even earthy notes. “The Pinot Noirs of Willamette Valley are considered generally more delicate, more silky and not so much blatant fruit flavors, but more savory and earthy, with other interesting characteristics,” Gordon adds.

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Best Willamette Valley Pinot Noir Bottles

Holocene 2022 Memorialis Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton)

The Memorialis asks a rather provocative question—is the best Pinot Noir in Oregon being made in Milton-Freewater? 100% whole cluster fermented, this aromatic set of briary and brambly red fruit makes me want to dab it on my pulse points. Leathery tannins and crisp acidity join forces with tangy flavors of raspberries and rooibos tea with a lemon wedge. Enjoy 2024–2037. 97 points. Cellar Selection. — Michael Alberty

$69.95 Avalon Wine

Elk Cove 2021 Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)

The Reserve is composed of the nine best barrels from Elk Cove’s estate plantings. It will require decanting in the short run and patience in the long run. Beautiful boysenberry, tangerine and anise-laced Thai basil aromas lead to flavors like tangy cranberry, raspberry and cinnamon. Drink 2025–2038. 96 points. Cellar Selection. — M.A.

$100 Elk Cove

Élevée Winegrowers 2021 Departure Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)

Wherever this wine is departing to, I’m on board. A dazzling aromatic set of crushed pomegranate seeds, strawberries and sweet pea flowers starts the journey off right. Then, a lightning bolt of acidity propels sweet red cherry and bergamot tea flavors that last for a good long while. You need to be on this Pinot train. 96 points. Editor’s Choice. — M.A.

$100 Elevee Wines

Harper Voit 2019 Antiquum Vineyard Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)

This wine is pure magic. It begins with a wondrous combination of electric currents of acidity and leathery tannins. The aromatic set is an umami showcase of raspberries, ginger, grilled tofu and seaweed salinity. Boysenberry, orange pith and sesame seed oil flavors demand an order of tuna belly sashimi. Drink now–2034. 95 points. — M.A.

$75 Harper Voit

Winderlea 2021 Winderlea Vineyard Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills)

This estate wine smells like a walk down a country lane in summer, with a bit of dust, earth and straw complementing wild blackberry and lavender aromas. Tart cherry juice and raspberry flavors unite with cinnamon and black tea notes, all supported by jangly acidity and silky tannins. 95 points. Editor’s Choice. — M.A.

$80 Winderlea

St. Innocent 2019 Temperance Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills)

This wine is a testament to what happens when you match fruit from a great vineyard with a skilled winemaking hand. Raspberries, lilacs and blueberry honey form an aromatic Justice League, followed by similar flavors of raspberries, cacao nibs and lavender tea. The wine’s acidity is still kicking, which is what you will be doing to yourself if you don’t buy some. 95 points. Editor’s Choice. — M.A.

$55 St. Innocent Winery

LucidWild 2021 Chosen LucidWild Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills)

Bella Vida Vineyard in the Dundee Hills was recently renamed LucidWild. The new owner’s Chosen Pinot Noir represents the best barrels, blocks and clones of their vineyard. The wine’s aromas of strawberries, Stargazer lilies and vanilla make for a nice perfume. The Chosen is balanced, with bright raspberry, mineral and jasmine tea flavors. The texture is as smooth as percale sheets. 95 points. Editor’s Choice. — M.A.

$310 LucidWild Estate

Walnut Ridge 2022 Vieilles Vignes Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)

The Vieilles Vignes offers dark raspberry and citrus aromas that are accompanied by notes of wet modeling clay and crunchy dried oak leaves. Velvety tannins and brisk acidity support flavors like Bing cherries, sweet tea and roasted portobello mushrooms. This would make a nice pairing for cassoulet or rabbit stew. 94 points. Editor’s Choice. — M.A.

$50 Vino Shipper

Evening Land 2022 Summum Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills)

The newest Summum is a showstopper. Fresh, floral aromas of mainland roses and tropical plumeria flowers join together with tart red raspberry and roasted pork shoulder notes. A crisp mouthfeel and texture showcase flavors like Rainier cherries, lime and bittersweet dark chocolate. Pour this with grilled portobello mushrooms and Coltrane’s “Giant Steps.” 96. points. Editor’s Choice. — M.A.

$100 Evening Land Vineyards

FAQs

Where Can You Buy Willamette Valley Pinot Noir?

The West Coast of the U.S. has the best selection when it comes to finding boutique bottles, but most of the U.S. and even other countries now stock up on Oregon wines. You can also buy them online from a winery’s website or other online wine retailers.

What Is the Difference Between California and Oregon Pinot Noir?

There are a lot of factors involved that determine differences between the two, but Willamette Valley tends to produce higher acid Pinot Noir with moderate alcohol, which can be difficult to create in the warmer climate of California, Alberty says.

What States Makes the Best Pinot Noir?

In addition to Oregon, California is well-known for its Pinot Noir. Notable Pinot Noir-producing areas include the Anderson Valley, Sonoma Coast, Russian River Valley, Santa Lucia Highlands and Santa Rita Hills. 

Why You Should Trust Us

All products featured here are independently selected by our team, which is comprised of experienced writers and wine tasters and overseen by editorial professionals at Wine Enthusiast headquarters. All ratings and reviews are performed blind in a controlled setting and reflect the parameters of our 100-point scale. Wine Enthusiast does not accept payment to conduct any product review, though we may earn a commission on purchases made through links on this site. Prices were accurate at the time of publication.

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Legacy cannabis pioneers who once retreated to Humboldt’s secluded forests to covertly harvest their crop are stepping into the light, with celebrations that go well beyond 4/20. San Francisco’s boutique dispensaries and consumption lounges are starting to bounce back after the pandemic crash, hosting regular events like comedy shows and industry nights while the plant integrates into regular programming at Outside Lands Music Festival. Premier B2B trade show Hall of Flowers in Santa Rosa opens its doors to the public for the first time ever this year, signifying its mainstream acceptance. Even Napa has its own Napa Valley Cannabis Association (though the region doesn’t currently allow commercial cannabis production and is not participating in the AVA program).

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For those who want to head up north in search of weed and wine, the culture is thick in Humboldt. But, given the county’s remote location—a nearly six hours’ drive from both San Francisco and Sacramento—it is often considered too far for a quick getaway for most urbanites. Alternative wine regions like Sonoma, Anderson Valley and Mendocino are far easier to reach, and have been building a reputation for up-and-coming cannabis scenes that play nice with wineries. While the weed industry often finds itself butting heads with wine, here the convergence is harmonious, delivering experiences in line with award-winning restaurants, hotels, wineries and spas.

“Scenic regions like Sonoma and Mendocino County are already known for being some of the best destinations for lovers of wine, but most people forget that these areas that grow some of the top grapes in the world also offer ideal conditions for growing the best cannabis,” says 

Chelsea Davis, a San Francisco-based journalist, content creator and founder of Cannescape, the first travel-centric cannabis dining company with a focus on Northern California experiences. “Younger generations are looking for not just unique wine tastings, but also upscale cannabis experiences—whether that’s infused fine dining or food pairings enhanced by specific strains to smoke.”

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This crossover has led to a growing number of sommeliers and hospitality tastemakers who found their footing in wine to flex their palates as cannasseurs, a.k.a connoisseurs of cannabis. Among them is Jamie Evans, who after a decade of working in wine, crossed over to cannabis in 2017 when she launched her blog and events business, The Herb Somm. The company specializes in wine and cannabis pairing experiences and infused dinners throughout San Francisco and wine country. Already, she’s forged a partnership with boutique dispensary The Bohemian Chemist and their cannabis-friendly hotel, The Madrones to highlight regional pairings of wine and weed grown in the Anderson Valley.

With a background in wine and passion for cannabis, Evans saw potential in the culinary side of the quickly growing industry. “Much like wine, cannabis showcases many unique smells, tastes and effects,” says Evans, a certified sommelier, certified wine specialist (CWS) and French Wine Scholar (FWS). “When you tap into your senses, you can learn the nuances between each cultivar and apply this knowledge to craft cannabis, food and wine pairings. Cannabis is very much a gourmet ingredient, so I’ve made it my mission to educate about the plant in this way.”

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Everyone’s heard of the munchies, but the psychotropic side effects of cannabis can heighten a Michelin-star dining experience that plays into the romance of visiting wine country, explains Brian Applegarth, founder of boutique cannabis travel marketing agency Applegarth Strategies and the Cannabis Travel Association International. “Cannabis is the new vermouth, a pre-dinner aperitif,” he says. “Certain cultivars have the ability to accentuate the palate and enhance flavor, taste and texture.”

It’s this sort of crossover, paired with the wine- and weed-friendly terroir, that has prompted businesses and communities in these tourism hotspots to embrace the potential for combination travel. “Sonoma and Mendocino Counties are ideal destinations for both wine and cannabis,” says Applegarth. “Santa Barbara County is also positioning itself for similar opportunities, which is exciting for those looking for both experiences while visiting California.”

Northern California’s fusion of wine and cannabis tourism shows a region at the forefront of a cultural evolution, where the legacy of the past and the innovation of the future meet—though cannabis’s murky federal legal status means these industries remain stuck in the past as cash-only operations for the moment. Here’s how to plan your journey.

San Francisco: The Urban Gateway

Begin in the city that started it all: the Beat Generation, Hippie Hill, the Castro and the nation’s first public dispensary, The San Francisco Cannabis Buyers Club. 

Get a taste of the past while exploring the latest cultural iteration of the legal landscape. From iconic dispensaries like Flore Dispensary and boutiques like The Apothecarium to consumption lounges such as Moe Greens, Barbary Coast and Mission Cannabis Club, the city offers a diverse, centrally located cannabis culture. 

As for accommodations, near Fisherman’s Wharf, Kimpton Alton offers a “Leafy Dreams” package. It confers a VIP experience at local cannabis dispensary Cannabis Cultures with a 20% discount and a complimentary luxurious sleep kit featuring eucalyptus pillow spray, sleep mask and Sensi 100mg CBD Chocolate Caramels.

Sonoma: The Land of Grapes and Genetics

Sonoma County, with its rich agricultural heritage that includes 19 unique AVAs growing more than 60 grape varieties, is also a hotspot for cannabis genetics and innovation. This is the birthplace of cookie strains, plus coveted compounds like GlitterBomb and Pink Jesus. The latter is a temperamental cultivar and fan favorite—not unlike Pinot Noir—from Sonoma Hills Farm, the very first OCal organic certified cannabis farm in California. It’s led by Aaron Keefer, the former culinary gardener for the French Laundry. Meanwhile, Garden Society, a Northern California cannabis brand, taps into the wine country vibe with gummies touting inspired flavors like tart cherry Pinot Noir, peach Prosecco and sparkling strawberry rosé.

Santa Rosa is home to the bulk of noteworthy dispensaries showcasing local and sustainable cannabis products, reflecting the area’s commitment to quality and community. Check out small-batch cannabis with Sun+Earth and biodynamic certifications from hyper-local farms at Solful in Sebastopol and Santa Rosa. Also stop by Jane, an award-winning, woman-owned dispensary with locations in Cotati and Santa Rosa, plus a soon-to-open outpost in Healdsburg with an unmatched selection of premium brands in a luxury shopping space. 

See the plants up close and personal at Flore Terra, home to a high-end, 10,000-square-foot indoor cultivation area nurturing over 20,000 clones. Finally, chat up a budtender about NorCal brands like Mendocino Grasslands, Moon Valley Cannabis, Farmer & the Felon, A Golden State and Fig Farms at the upscale dispensary Cannadel.

Mendocino: Rustic Charm at the Tip of the Emerald Triangle

At the southern tip of the Emerald Triangle is Mendocino County, a down-to-earth region that proudly celebrates its terroir through the motto “wine, waves and wilderness.” Notable dispensaries include The Bohemian Chemist in Philo; Plantshop in Ukiah; and Sol de Mendocino in Mendocino Village—all of which have become destinations for educational tastings and scenic views. 

Plantshop in particular features a fantastic outdoor consumption lounge that offers flower flight tastings of five strains of sun-grown cannabis with tasting notes and education on local farms, common cannabinoids and terpenes, plus seasonal mocktails and snacks. Sol de Mendocino is situated steps away from the Mendocino Headlands Bluff Trail along the Pacific coast. 

For those staying the night, bed-and-breakfast accommodations like The Madrones, in Philo, and MacCallum House, in Mendocino Village, offer cannabis-friendly stays where you can order a wine pairing or gourmet snacks before stepping out for a smoke break on your private deck.

Napa: Spas, Sips & Strains

Wine is still very much the focus in Napa County, but it’s still possible to find opportunities that throw cannabis into the mix. 

Pop an edible and get a CBD massage out in Calistoga, best known for its hot-spring spas and mud baths. Luxury properties like Solage Auberge, Calistoga Motor Lodge & Spa, Indian Springs and Dr. Wilkinson Mud Bath Experience all provide CBD-enhanced treatments, combining the therapeutic benefits of cannabis with traditional spa services, with overnight stays to unwind carefree. 

Dispensaries like Abide and Velvet Cannabis cater to the discerning consumer, offering premium selections like Kiva chocolate bars, Tempo infused crackers and Kush Queen bath bombs.

Let the Pros Do the Work

Planning a well-tailored trip requires a lot of planning—why not let someone else do it? 

Davis’s company Cannescape curates one-of-a-kind, overnight dining experiences in Northern California. The offerings include cooking classes and private infused dining with glamping at Mendocino Grove and stays at Mine and Farm Inn, which merges cannabis education with inspired seasonal cuisine from chef Solomon Johnson, the first Bay Area Champion of the Discovery+ series Chopped 420. 

San Francisco Cannabis Tour, a local San Francisco-based tour company, takes visitors on a half-day journey to learn about the origin and history of cannabis with stops at two dispensaries and one consumption lounge, as well as famous sights including Haight-Ashbury, Dolores Park and Twin Peaks. Meanwhile Mendocino Cannabis Farm Tour takes visitors straight to the source with a visit to a working cannabis farm.

Carly Fisher is a James Beard Award-nominated journalist, strategist and author of Easy Weekend Getaways in the Hudson Valley & Catskills. Her work covering the cultural intersection of food, beverage, travel, cannabis and sensory experiences at-large has been featured in GQ, CNN Travel, Bon Appetit, Food & Wine, Fodors Travel and more.

The post Following the Emerald Green Road: Northern California’s Cannabis Culture Heads to Wine Country appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

The Southern Oregon American Viticultural Area (AVA) encompasses Applegate Valley, Elkton Oregon, Red Hill Douglas County, Rogue Valley and Umpqua Valley. The AVA’s two million total acres stretch from south of Eugene to within wine-spitting distance of the California border.

Those who picture the Southern Oregon AVA as a warm-climate region filled with fly fishing, Tempranillo and Syrah would be surprised to discover that Pinot Noir is the region’s most widely planted grape, accounting for over 40% of the planted acreage, according to the 2022 Oregon Vineyard and Winery Report.

You May Also Like: The Best Willamette Valley Pinot Noirs to Drink Right Now

While there are unproven claims that frontier photographer Peter Britt planted Pinot Noir in the Rogue Valley in the late 1880s, the grape’s provable Southern Oregon history begins in the Umpqua Valley. That’s where Richard Sommer founded HillCrest Vineyard more than 60 years ago. In 1959, just a few years after graduating with an agronomy degree from the University of California, Davis, Sommer transported Pinot Noir cuttings from Louis M. Martini’s Stanly Ranch property in Napa to Roseburg, Oregon. Dyson DeMara, who along with his wife, Susan, acquired HillCrest Vineyard from Sommer in 2003, reports that after a year of “rooting out” at a nearby location, Sommer planted his Pinot Noir vines, along with other varieties, at the HillCrest Vineyard site in 1961.

“Latitude,” DeMara says, “brought Richard here to do world-class Pinot Noir and Riesling. He knew this latitude brought you cooler temperatures the month of harvest. The long ‘coast’ to the finish you get here in the Umpqua allows you to develop and then trap flavors and perfume.”

Given the long history, why aren’t we more familiar with Pinot Noir made at the other end of Interstate 5? Volume is one significant reason. Although Pinot Noir makes up a significant portion of planting, the latest Oregon Vineyard and Winery Report shows the Rogue and Umpqua Valleys produced 14,490 tons of Pinot Noir fruit in 2022, compared to the Willamette Valley’s 61,928 tons. In addition, not all of Southern Oregon’s Pinot Noir production makes it into bottles sporting one of the region’s AVA designations.

Calling it the “dual nature” of the region’s wine industry, Herb Quady, partner and winemaker at Quady North Winery in Jacksonville, says, “Most of Southern Oregon’s vineyards are small, planted to a mix of varieties, and either make wine under their own brands, or sell fruit to small wineries. However, a small number of vineyards are very large, are planted mostly to Pinot Noir and their fruit goes into the large brands headquartered in the Willamette Valley and California.” And any wines finished outside of the Southern Oregon AVA are labeled under the general Oregon AVA.

So, while great Pinot Noirs are made in the southern part of Oregon (and labeled as such), you have to work to track them down. Those wines are typically made by the wineries and vineyard owners who matched their vines to locations where Pinot Noir can thrive. You might be surprised how often that doesn’t happen.

You May Also Like: What Makes Pinot Noir Pinot Noir?

The Southern Oregon AVA offers a wide variety of soils and microclimates for vineyard owners to select from, so it is important to choose wisely. When I buy Pinot Noirs from Southern Oregon, I look for factors that help produce wines with elegance, moderate alcohol levels and elevated acidity.

For example, Irvine & Roberts estate vineyard is located in Ashland at 2,000– 2,200 feet above sea level with a north and east aspect. Co-owner Dionne Irvine says that combination “leaves us with a cool site within a warmer region. Matching varietal correctly to site allows one to make wines of a place, transparent, showing off our unique site in a way that no one can match.”

I also look for wines in areas where the vineyards are cooled by maritime breezes. One of those locations is the Illinois Valley, a spot with significant Pinot Noir potential. That’s where I located Deer Creek Vineyards, owned by Audra and Kenan Hester. Their estate vineyard is located 25 miles from the Pacific Ocean as the crow flies, without any geographical obstructions between them and those cool winds. Thus, their specific location is typically 10–15 degrees cooler than the rest of the Rogue Valley, with near-constant airflows and diurnal temperature shifts as high as 63 degrees Fahrenheit. According to Kenan Hester, “The way the fruit ripens here is much more similar to Mendocino or the Willamette Valley.”

If you’re ready to explore another part of Oregon to get your next Pinot Noir fix, below we’re rounded up a few more of the bottles you’ll find off the beaten path—the ones I share with friends. None of them appear in Wine Enthusiast’s Buying Guide. For now.

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Southern Oregon Pinot Noirs to Try

HillCrest Vineyard 2017 50th Anniversary Pinot Noir (Umpqua Valley)

This anniversary wine features the same label design that Richard Sommer used for his first commercial Pinot Noir release in 1967. The juice inside the commemorative bottle is well worth seeking out.

Intense aromas of boysenberries, orange zest, loamy soil and crème brûlée lead to flavors like blackcap raspberries, Bergamot tea, rosemary and toasted walnuts. This is a rich, balanced Pinot Noir with tingly acidity matched by an impressive tannic structure.

$75 HillCrest Vineyard

Deer Creek Vineyards 2019 Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Rogue Valley)

Deer Creek’s estate vineyard is in the Rogue Valley AVA, tucked away in the heavily forested Illinois Valley. This is a producer to keep an eye on.

A pronounced sweet wild raspberry aroma joined by notes of lavender and caramel makes for an excellent introduction. Frisky acidity and velvety tannins frame the wine’s raspberry, black tea and toasted pecan flavors. There’s also a saline note here reminiscent of those Pacific Ocean breezes that cool this vineyard.

$54 Deer Creek Vineyard

Crew Work 2018 Hundredth Valley Vineyard Pinot Noir (Elkton Oregon)

The Elkton Oregon AVA is one of my favorite places in Southern Oregon to hunt for Pinot Noirs with elevated acidity and a sense of elegance. This winery is one of my prized discoveries of the past few years.

Crew Work’s Pinot Noir leads with a dazzling onetwo aromatic punch of Bing cherries and chamomile, flanked by a bit of meadowfoam honey. The wine’s cherry, tart raspberry and lemon zest flavors curl around a live wire of acidity, with muscular tannins providing a backbeat.

$40 Elkton Wine Company

Lexème Wines 2019 Pinot Noir (Elkton Oregon)

This stunning Elkton Oregon AVA wine is made by Monja Hudson-Desmeules, who earned her enology and viticulture engineering degree in Switzerland at the University of Applied Sciences of Changins.

I love how the wine’s loamy soil aroma is intertwined with fresh nectarine and blackberry scents. Pie cherry and tart raspberry flavors hold court on the wine’s tangy palate, joined by a small amount of ginger soy sauce. The tannins are velvety, with lively acidity still kicking its heels.

$30 Lexème

Irvine & Roberts Vineyards 2021 Convergence Pinot Noir (Rogue Valley)

This Rogue Valley AVA treat is made with fruit from vines growing in the hills above Ashland at an elevation of over 2,000 feet above sea level.

The Convergence’s raspberry and cherry fruit aromas are accented by traces of chalk and pine needles. The wine feels light and fresh on the palate, with bright red fruit flavors mixed with bits of hibiscus flower tea and thyme.

$50 Irvine & Roberts Vineyards

This article originally appeared in the April 2024 of Wine Enthusiast magazine. Click here to subscribe today!

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The post Move Over, Willamette: Southern Oregon Pinot Noir Is Taking the Stage appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.